Need to install new 48" snowblade to my compact greymarket tractor

[ampa]

I've just purchased a brand new Heavy Duty ATV Snow Blade kit, these plough kits have a very long push(bar) frame,I thought maybe I could install it to fit underneath like a ATV,but I don't think I'll have the clearance,and it now looks like I'll have to cut the very long push(bar)frame,one problem comes to mind,it will have to have a hinge effect,I need something thats goin' to be robust,not what Craftsman manufacture for their small riders(lawn tractors),this push(bar) frame is designed and looks like a normal "A" frame,so this is what I've got to work with,and knowin' I'm goin' to have to cut it,probely in half,I'd like to have the blade fairly close to the front of the tractor,I need someone to come up with a hinge affect that will be strong and maybe have grease zerks,I got the money to spend to have it done,I don't trust my welding on something like this,I just like to get a good drawin'(diagram) from someone that has the know how and send me a sort of blue print of what I'm needin' to know then I could copy and bring the whole thing to a welding shop,or wher eever and show them what I need done,as for cutting I could cut plain flat stock with my chop saw,but I'll probely need a pro shop to cut out the pieces I'd need,right at the moment I 've be hobblin' around with a walkin' cast on my right leg,so gettin' pics is a little hard to do,I get the cast off this comin' Thursday but in the meantime I thought maybe you guys can come up with some good method like always, another thing is I got the raise and lowering it all figured out so no issues on that subject, anyhow guys thanks in advance,take care Ampa :thumbsup:

 

[Yandaddy1110]

With one of my tractor purchases, I got a front mount 2'' receiver hitch for a bx2200. I thought it would work great for mounting a front snow plow. It is basically a 7/8'' steel plate with 2'' inner receiver tube welded to to plate,this then mounts to the very front of the tractor frame, it would work great for the basis for mounting a front blade. Just simple.

 

[bp fick]

Plowed last winter with a front blade, and loved it. However, it was fully hydraulic, up/down/float plus full control over side to side tilt. I honestly think plowing without those abilities is much tougher. I suppose it depends on how much plowing a guy has to do and where the stockpile of snow is going.

 

[Yandaddy1110]

On both my b1750 and bx2200 that I used to own I had mounted 5' blades with hydro-turn, and rubber cutting edge to the loader arms, now thats the way to move snow, fast and clean. The last couple of years it was back to the rear blade,on my tiny yanmar, that sucks. This year, Im back to mounting a 6' atv blade to the loader arms of my B2400, cant wait for the snow.

 

[ampa]

Thanks ever so much guys,I'm sort of stuck with what I've bought,reason bein' I didn't buy this @ Princess Auto,and threw away the original packaging,I had a hard time getting some missing parts for the angle part of it,it is well built and I think it will be much more robust than my old cheaply built 42" Craftsman Snow Blade>>>first off the ATV push bar is part of the kit,for (example) Blade/Push bar/and then 2 more extra attachments one is manual lift bar the other is for a electric winch,of which neither of these are any interest to me,I bought a thing called a Acutator,looks much like a hydraulic cylinder,but has a 12 volt electric motor which is conected inside to a worm drive which makes the cylinder move up and down,the cylinder has a seal to keep out the moisture etc,I've read up on these gadgets,and the only issue is,they are a bit slower than a hydraulic system,but way better than a electric winch,no more broken or tangled cables, back to the plough issue would be buyin' the other attachment which would be for whatever brand ATV this were bein' mounted to,which in my case,would be my ISEKI tactor,for which there is none,so it's to the drawin' board lookin' for good idea on designing something that will work for the up and down motion other than using a lousy good for nothing 1/2-3/4 shoulder type bolt as Sears/Craftsman use on their push bar,I really thought maybe someone from here could provide me with a good heavy duty pin type hinge with a place for me to install a couple of grease zerks for easy maintainance,I will try and post some pics of this 48" snowblade and push bar,as to give an idea what I need to modify,soon as I find them(pics)>>>>>>>Thanks once again in advance>>>>>>>>>>>>Ampa

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Pics of what you have will help a lot. Knowing what you have to work with will help us all come up with better suggestions. You need a set of brackets on the underside of the tractor. There are likely some bolt holes already in place to mount the brackets to. I've included some pics of a rough suggestion. In this example the red clevis type brackets would mount to the tractor, and the blue tab is on the A-frame. (I didn't draw in the blade). You can reverse this scenario as well and put the clevis on the A-frame and the tab coming off the tractor.

If you really want the joint greaseable, include a short section of DOM tubing on the tab piece that is as long as the gap in the clevis. You can then either drill and tap a hole for a zerk in the DOM tubing or you can drill a hole halfway through your pin and then another hole perpendicular in the middle to intersect the hole through the center of the pin. Tap the outside of the hole through the center to recieve a zerk.

 

[ampa]

Thanks ever so much,even without a pic you knew what I was needing to know,yes,at first this idea passed my mind,but then the clearance issue came to mind,at the moment I'm in the process of sellin' my 60" Finish Mower and my rear Grader Blade,with a little luck these two pieces my be gone/sold tonight,then I'll have a bunch more room in my guarage to move,as it's still cluttered from the May move,ya I know I'm slow at gettin' organized,but if you seen the way my helpers/movers threw down everthing,I just shut the guarage door,and try my best not to go in there,unless I really have to then I try not to look except to where I'm walkin',I'm guessin' you get the picture,anyhow I you have the soloution to my issue down to a "T",If I can mount the blade on the push bar,I may not need too much clearance,just enough to clear the blade a couple of inches off the ground,which I think I can even get it to three inches,that new lift acutator is gonna' provive down pressure on the blade which is what I'll need to have with the lighter guage steel snow blade, I'll still try and post a pic or two of my new set up,>>>>once again Iplayfarmer,your input greatly appreciated,and then I don't have to cut the "A" frame>>>>>Ampa :thumbsup:

 

[ampa]

Here's a couple of pic's>>the snowblade is from the website so can't be inlarged,but this snowblade be close in detail to the unit I bought except mines yellow and black in color,the acutator is close in detail to the one I have as well, this acutator rated five stars on 5 reveiws,the snow blade had fairly good reveiws as well,I removed the adjustable runners on the plough/blade,I like to get it down to the nitty gritty,cause my driveway has a dip to it,so I'll need to clear it all,so no ice forms,my mini van is not too good on snow let alone ice,I will be stockin' up on road salt as well this comin' winter >>>>>>Ampa

 

[ampa]

Hi Iplayfarmer,I think I'll consider your solution/idea as to what size bar stock what would you suggest???,I can pick up the needed material,the only trouble I'd have is installin' the grease zerks,as I only have a workbench type heavy duty drill press,may have to send it out to have this done,Hmmmm,I'm just wonderin' if my little 120 volt Lincoln gasless mig welder would do the job for me,if it will,this would me a bit of practice,and a bit of self confidence,and the fact bein'....... that I built or modified all by myself>>>>>Great Forum>>>>

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Hi Iplayfarmer,I think I'll consider your solution/idea as to what size bar stock what would you suggest???,I can pick up the needed material,the only trouble I'd have is installin' the grease zerks,as I only have a workbench type heavy duty drill press,may have to send it out to have this done,Hmmmm,I'm just wonderin' if my little 120 volt Lincoln gasless mig welder would do the job for me,if it will,this would me a bit of practice,and a bit of self confidence,and the fact bein'....... that I built or modified all by myself>>>>>Great Forum>>>>

In the picture you posted it looks like there are already tabs on the back of the blade A-frame. I can't tell if there are two per side or only one per side. Post back whether there are two or one.

1/4" stock should be plenty thick enough. If I were you, I'd not install grease zerks. It will complicate the process A LOT, and I don't think it's necessary.

The next thing you need to tell us is how wide the A-frame is at the back and how wide your tractor is where you will be mounting the A-frame. If they're not close to the same, we'll need to come up with some kind of extra bracket to match them up.