Need to transport baler, grain drill, hay rake

[flusher]

I'm in the market for haying equipment and need advice on transporting the wider implements like hay baler (9 ft wide, 3000 lb), grain drill (10-13 ft wide, 2000 lb), rake (10-15 ft wide, 1500 lb).

I'm thinking that a flat bed equipment trailer (8 x 16 ft, dual axle, 7000 lb GVW) is what I need together with a pair of removable ramps set up on the side of the trailer so these implemenents can be backed onto the trailer. Seems like a jack or cribbing under the hitch end of the trailer would support this side-loading arrangement and keep the trailer from tilting/twisting. I can remove the hitches and chute can be removed from the baler so the side-to-side width of these loads is less than 9-10 ft, which I think satisfies CA regulations.

Any suggestions on ramps that would handle this job.

 

[Rara Avis]

I'm in the market for haying equipment and need advice on transporting the wider implements like hay baler (9 ft wide, 3000 lb), grain drill (10-13 ft wide, 2000 lb), rake (10-15 ft wide, 1500 lb).

I'm thinking that a flat bed equipment trailer (8 x 16 ft, dual axle, 7000 lb GVW) is what I need together with a pair of removable ramps set up on the side of the trailer so these implemenents can be backed onto the trailer. Seems like a jack or cribbing under the hitch end of the trailer would support this side-loading arrangement and keep the trailer from tilting/twisting. I can remove the hitches and chute can be removed from the baler so the side-to-side width of these loads is less than 9-10 ft, which I think satisfies CA regulations.

Any suggestions on ramps that would handle this job.

Depending how far you have to travel...we just haul our haybine, baler and rake on the road...SMV and lights installed...

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I just tow these things around unless it is over 50 miles, then I look to hauling them. The grain drill I loaded up onto the trailer but that drill was 15' wide. I took off the clevis part of the hitch but left the rest on so I was slightly over width but no one bothered me on the trip home from Columbus, Ohio.

If your rake is a bar rake generally the wheels are close enough together you can back it up the ramps on the back. Then all you need to do is turn it sideways on the trailer by hand (they are light).

The baler can be a pain in the butt to dismantle to haul on a trailer. I looked at buying a baler from 3 hours away but it was going to take a lot of time and effort for two people to dismantle it there to get under width. So I paid a little more for a nicer baler close to home.

 

[chh]

The side load arrangement would probably work for the grain drill, if the hitch can be removed to get it under width. I've towed round balers as far as 130 miles with no ill effects on the tires, bearings ect. If the tires are good and the baler you are looking at towing with you P/U would be much easier than loading it.

 

[flusher]

The side load arrangement would probably work for the grain drill, if the hitch can be removed to get it under width. I've towed round balers as far as 130 miles with no ill effects on the tires, bearings ect. If the tires are good and the baler you are looking at towing with you P/U would be much easier than loading it.

The baler is about 70 miles away. CA authorities can be a hassle when towing oversize farm equipment more than a few miles via county/state roads.

I may have to hire a guy with a tilt-bed hauler and winch. I could weld up a simple skid, roll the baler onto it and then have him winch it onto his truck with the baler placed sideways on the skid.

Those guys are pretty good at skidding cars onto their tilt beds. I once saw a Mercedes SL being dragged onto a tilt bed.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Anything I can't haul, or I don't want to haul, I have a couple auto/truck wrecker services I call. They have rollbacks of various sizes, access to equipment to load and unload, permits to haul all sorts of odd loads, and are usually glad to get a "back haul" if you just give them time to make your load when it fits with their schedules.

Balers are a nightmare to haul. I bought my 336 Deere out of Iowa about 15 years ago. The hauler loaded it standing up on it's side (opposite side from pick-up) , cribbed and secured for the trip. He had it on a U-haul car trailer.

 

[Rara Avis]

Anything I can't haul, or I don't want to haul, I have a couple auto/truck wrecker services I call. They have rollbacks of various sizes, access to equipment to load and unload, permits to haul all sorts of odd loads, and are usually glad to get a "back haul" if you just give them time to make your load when it fits with their schedules.

Balers are a nightmare to haul. I bought my 336 Deere out of Iowa about 15 years ago. The hauler loaded it standing up on it's side (opposite side from pick-up) , cribbed and secured for the trip. He had it on a U-haul car trailer.

Unloading that baler must have been interesting...

So how was the tin, after laying on its side?

 

[burnetma]

I may have to hire a guy with a tilt-bed hauler and winch. I could weld up a simple skid, roll the baler onto it and then have him winch it onto his truck with the baler placed sideways on the skid.
.

I just bought a tilt bed trailer for just that purpose. If you do go this route, please post pictures of the loading and unloading process.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Unloading that baler must have been interesting...

So how was the tin, after laying on its side?

It was cribbed and crated. Hauled just fine, no damage at all. Weight was carried on axle front portion of the hitch frame and the wagon hitch.

Advantage to working for a general contractor. I borrowed a hydraulic crane and several 4" strap slings. It took all of 5 minutes to lift it off the trailer and lay it over to uncrate. I paid pennies on the dollar of actual value for the baler. Original owner had it in a sad state in less than 1000 bales use then parked it. Shipping, fixing everything, and purchase price included, I had about $2200 in it and used it for 16 years.