blaze6994
New member
I just got a new holland workmaster 55 what all do i need to change on it it has 5045 hours on it
Never done maintenance on a tractor before need so pointers
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Wagtail
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2013
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- 12,663
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- St Helens, Tasmania, Australia
- Tractor
- JD 4105 / JD Z355E (48" deck)
G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.
Well now, that all depends...
Did your tractor come with its Owners Manual and was the previous owner diligent in recording the maintenance that was done over the years? The Owners Manual will tell you the various fluid capacities and the recommended fluids to use, plus the type of filters (fuel, oil & hydraulic) required.
For 'piece of mind' I'd start from scratch and change ALL the fluids (yes, even the expensive hydraulic fluid) and the respective filters.
I'd use a torque wrench (Owners Manual gives the specs) and check every bolt (especially the wheel nuts) that I can possibly see.
Grease every grease nipple (zerk) that you can find... surprise! There may be some that aren't listed. Then I'd spray lube anything that can 'move' that doesn't have a 'zerk'. (think of pedals, linkages, etc...)
I reckon that that's enough to start, anyway. Oh, and enjoy the site. :thumbsup:
Well now, that all depends...
Did your tractor come with its Owners Manual and was the previous owner diligent in recording the maintenance that was done over the years? The Owners Manual will tell you the various fluid capacities and the recommended fluids to use, plus the type of filters (fuel, oil & hydraulic) required.For 'piece of mind' I'd start from scratch and change ALL the fluids (yes, even the expensive hydraulic fluid) and the respective filters.
I'd use a torque wrench (Owners Manual gives the specs) and check every bolt (especially the wheel nuts) that I can possibly see.
Grease every grease nipple (zerk) that you can find... surprise! There may be some that aren't listed.
Then I'd spray lube anything that can 'move' that doesn't have a 'zerk'. (think of pedals, linkages, etc...)I reckon that that's enough to start, anyway. Oh, and enjoy the site. :thumbsup:
Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
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- 11,917
- Location
- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
I think Wagtail about covered it. Personally I don't use a torque wrench to tighten bolts on a tractor. I have a lifetime calibrated torque wrench in my arms, depending on the size of the bolt, it might be all I can put out on a standard 12" ratchet handle or 18" breaker bar. Not many bolts on a tractor that an average man can overtighten without using a cheater bar. You can internet search for bolt size and torque value for the size and pretty much figure out how much muscle to put behind your wrench if you have a bit of experience in bolt tightening.
Look closely at bolts that are really hard to get to, those will likely be the ones loose but wheel bolts are always suspect along with any FEL attachment points.
When greasing any point with a rubber gland around it (like steering knuckle joints) be careful and don't overfill and burst the rubber gland. Usually 3-4 pumps is sufficient. When the rubber gland starts to swell, stop.
Other than oil and filter changes, check the engine air filter. At over 5000 hours, it is likely time to put in a new one. Most OEM recommend yearly replacement of outer filter but I think this is way overkill as long as it is functional and not damaged, there is no reason to spend $50 or more on an air filter. I know lots of folks (including me) just blow them out as long as the aren't oily/broken. Your tractor should also have an inner air filter. If it shows any dirt or any sign of dust getting past the primary (outer) filter, then your outer filter is bad and definitely has to be replaced. If so, replace both inner and outer. If inner filter is not dirty you can just replace the outer filter.
Look closely at bolts that are really hard to get to, those will likely be the ones loose but wheel bolts are always suspect along with any FEL attachment points.
When greasing any point with a rubber gland around it (like steering knuckle joints) be careful and don't overfill and burst the rubber gland. Usually 3-4 pumps is sufficient. When the rubber gland starts to swell, stop.
Other than oil and filter changes, check the engine air filter. At over 5000 hours, it is likely time to put in a new one. Most OEM recommend yearly replacement of outer filter but I think this is way overkill as long as it is functional and not damaged, there is no reason to spend $50 or more on an air filter. I know lots of folks (including me) just blow them out as long as the aren't oily/broken. Your tractor should also have an inner air filter. If it shows any dirt or any sign of dust getting past the primary (outer) filter, then your outer filter is bad and definitely has to be replaced. If so, replace both inner and outer. If inner filter is not dirty you can just replace the outer filter.
