New 5v tin over old 5v tin?

[Oldoak]

Maybe I'm missing something, but if you're taking the nails out what's holding the panels on? It seem like it would be incredibly unsafe to be on the roof with all the panels un-nailed. At that point removing the panels is just a matter of lowering them to the ground, a negligible amount of work.

I believe the O.P. was talking about just knocking the lead coverings off of the nail heads and leaving the nails in the old panels. Some of those lead heads fly off when originally pounding those nails in and some actually end up in the rain gutters over time. That had been my experience with my 40+ year old roofing.

 

[/pine]

There could also be an issue with galvanic corrosion if the old metal is left...
Curious...is the underside of the metal also rusted?

 

[Lineman North Florida]

If you want the building to last I would remove the old roof.
I just got my home roof replaced with 29 ga. metal roof.
I priced the metal before I had the roofer do it and this metal is called "Galvalume" and costs $1.44 a linear foot (1' X 3').
It is much better than 5V.
Also they screwed it down in the rib not the flat and he said the engineers approved of this.
My roof is permitted and inspected. Roofer has his own machine to make the panels!

I'm fixing to put a metal roof on my hunting camp that I am building and I am determined to screw mine in the ridge as well, this goes against most any advice that I have been given, but I have done a couple of barns and I have had more issues with the one I screwed in the fiat than the ones screwed or nailed in the ridge, glad to here some are still doing it this way.

 

[Rustyiron]

You just need to be very cautious not to over tighten if screwing in the ridge. Pre drilling helps.

 

[coosa]

Maybe I'm missing something, but if you're taking the nails out what's holding the panels on? It seem like it would be incredibly unsafe to be on the roof with all the panels un-nailed. At that point removing the panels is just a matter of lowering them to the ground, a negligible amount of work.

I wasn't gonna remove the nails, just the lead that is under the nail heads. This type of nail seems obsolete now, but they were used in 1979. You drove the nail in and the lead flattened out and prevented a leak. The lead served the same purpose as rubber washers do now. You can run a crowbar down the v and the lead is easy to break loose, then the new sheet will flat on the old one.

Selling the old tin is a good idea. It seems unanimous that I need to remove the old roof, so we will go that way. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Don't forget to gather the lead, it's probably worth more than the old tin.

 

[Barnbuilder]

I need 2200 sqft of old 5v for a project! Where are you located?

 

[lennyzx11]

I'm fixing to put a metal roof on my hunting camp that I am building and I am determined to screw mine in the ridge as well, this goes against most any advice that I have been given, but I have done a couple of barns and I have had more issues with the one I screwed in the fiat than the ones screwed or nailed in the ridge, glad to here some are still doing it this way.

Here's one case against in the ridge.
Screw Location Recommendations - YouTube

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Here's one case against in the ridge.
Screw Location Recommendations - YouTube

Yes sir and that goes hand in hand with what most people tell you about why it is better to screw the tin in the flat, but a lot of those same people say exposed fasteners were never supposed to be used on residential roofs only agricultural type setups, I'm still going in the ridge as water can't stand on the ridge.