New Comer

   / New Comer #1  

tderrick

Silver Member
Joined
May 14, 2008
Messages
177
Location
Nashville
Tractor
L3901 , Ford 8N and 640
Hello!

I've had an 8N for years to keep up with the light duty around my
small farm. It came newly rebuilt and I've never had a need to be
on a list because nothing ever breaks on it!! I never thought I would
ever get another tractor because the 8N is all I need for a 24 acre /
7 horse operation.

But then... My wife stubbled across this tractor in a friends barn.

Turns out it had been in there ever since the friends father had passed
away. She could never bare to mess with it until now. Some twenty years.

I show up, dust off the tractor and see 706 hrs on the proof meter.
The paint looks brand new. The red on the Ford logo's is mint. It's a
600.

The Ford blue on the sickle bar (still hooked up to the triple hitch) looked
like it just came from the dealer in 1957.

I couldn't believe my eyes. I gave her the asking price, no questions asked.
$500

A little more history on the tractor. The father was the owner of a local
Ford Dealership here in Gallatin,Tennessee in the 50's and this was his
personal tractor that he acquired new to cut his 15 acre property. His daughter thought he never used it more than 2 or three times a year
for 30 years or so, until his death.

So here it now sits in my barn... A one owner, 700 hr piece of Americana.

I am here now to ask for guidance on how to proceed with getting this
baby fired up and back to work. The battery and generator are missing, so I guess I'll start there. I will probably go 12V, if it hasn't
been changed over already. The harness has 3 leads like an alternator.
My manuals are on the way, so I'm not sure how the generator was wired.

With the little bit of internet research I've done so far with the serial #'s,
it appears to be a 640.

Any input will be greatly appreciated ... :D
 
   / New Comer #2  
A 640 has a 4spd trans and a 134ci OHV red tiger engine, and was made from 1955 to 1957. It's more or less an updated NAA.

for one that has been setting, i'd pull the plugs and fill the cyl's with atf fluid and let set.

the tractor has a seperate tranny, diffy, and hyds sump. UTF can be used in all 3 sumps.. or gear oil in the trans and diffy, and utf or aw32.46 hyd oil int he hyd sump.

after letting atf set a day, remove plugs and bar engine over, and refill.

you will need a new set of points and a condensor..

the gennies could have 3 leads.. armature, field and ground. OEM genny was a ford produced B circuit genny capable of making 25A. There are common bracket sets to hang a common delco 10-si alternator on there. if you do.. get the brackets.. they are bolt on compatible to the tractor.. get a real 12v coil.. like a napa IC14SB.. the points are the same as a ford 8n sidemount. for plugs use autolite 437's.. and use copper metal core plug wires.

get a 3 wire alternator.. wire charge stud to one side of ammeter, wire #2 spade lug to charge stud. wire #1 spade lug thru a 194 trailer marker lamp then to the switched ( coil ) side of the ignition.. or you can use a diode.. any that is 1a/50piv will work.. but a 3a/200piv is better.. in5408 works good. diode will have a strip on one side.. wire strip toward alternator.. I like the diode better than the trailer lamp.

in wireing this.. the alternator and all electrical loads will be on one sid eof the ammeter, and the other side of the ammeter merely goes to the battery, or hot side of the start solenoid. that's the easiest way to preserve the net charge/discharge ammeter setup.

post your sn and I'll tell you it's birth year.

once the cyls have soaked in atf.. bar the engine over after removing old plugs to expell the oil,.. put in new plugs and giver her a try with some new gas.

here is some side mount distribuitor info:
Side-Mount Distributor: 8n thru 4 cyl thousand series
Points:
NAPA #CS749
NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
Standard Ignition #FD-8081
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA66
Standard Ignition #FD-75
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
Rotor:
NAPA #FA67
Standard Ignition #FD-108
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA352
Standard Ignition #FD-128

side mount points hold down screws #8-32 X 3/16
FORD AUTOMOBILE dealer parts counter. come with built-in lockwasher. p/n 355047-S7 (#8-32 X 0.19)

soundguy
 
   / New Comer
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks SoundGuy... of course I have a few questions... a few of many I'm sure! ; )

The serial # is 144232



Is UTF, Universal Transmission Fluid?

Is there a crank damper bolt on the front of the engine like a car, or is there some other way
of barring it over?

The alternator on my 8N is an AC Delco . Should I stick with that brand? Maybe in the 80-90 amp
range?

Is in5408 a part # for a diode?


Thanks for all the part #'s! I can't wait for payday...
 
   / New Comer #4  
Your sn puts in a mid+ 1957 range.

UTF is generically a universal tractor fluid..e tc.. It needs to meet ford/nh/CNH spec M2C134D.. if it does.. it's fine. ( walmart and TSC utf are fine.. )



tderrick said:
Thanks SoundGuy... of course I have a few questions... a few of many I'm sure! ; )

The serial # is 144232

There will either be a hand crank nut or regular nut on the crank pulley.. that or a long screwdriver int he starter opening.. etc.. strap wrench ont he crank pulley... lots of ways to bar one over.. socket, long extension and breaker bar.. etc..

the delco 10si is fine.. even the small 35/45 amps jobs are way more than enough power.. you gonna have 15 - 20 lamps on this sucker and an air conditioner? and a boom-boom stereo system? or you gonna have a couple headlamps, a tail lamp, and a work lamp or two?

soundguy

Is UTF, Universal Transmission Fluid?

Is there a crank damper bolt on the front of the engine like a car, or is there some other way
of barring it over?

The alternator on my 8N is an AC Delco . Should I stick with that brand? Maybe in the 80-90 amp
range?

Is in5408 a part # for a diode?


Thanks for all the part #'s! I can't wait for payday...
 
   / New Comer
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Ha! :D

That size alternator sounds better. I didn't know they made them
with that little amperage...
 
   / New Comer #6  
Keep us updated on how it goes bringing that old tractor back to life. A couple years ago, an old hermit that lived around the corner from me passed away and they auctioned off all his stuff. He wasn't to ambitious and never did any farming but kept his dad's (who died around 1960) tractors in the barn. As far as I know, none of them ran since then. At the auction, a couple Farmall super A's brought $800-900 ea., A W-4, around $700, and a Fergusen TO20 around $1000. All had real low hours and decent tires. A friend of mine bought one of the A's but he has not started working on it yet. You certainly got a steal with that 640 for $500.
 
   / New Comer #7  
tderrick said:
Ha! :D

That size alternator sounds better. I didn't know they made them
with that little amperage...

They came out in 69, and had 37amp, 42amp, 55amp, 61amp, and 63amp ratings. Became more popular in mid 70's..

soundguy
 
   / New Comer
  • Thread Starter
#8  
wolc123 said:
Keep us updated on how it goes bringing that old tractor back to life.

Will do...

I've just been cleaning up some grease in all the obvious places...

When I start turning wrenches, I'm sure you all will be sick of me! :D
 
   / New Comer #9  
I'm sure interested in how you make out when firing this baby up. Nice find!
 
   / New Comer
  • Thread Starter
#10  
bontai_Joe said:
I'm sure interested in how you make out when firing this baby up. Nice find!

Thanks... Will keep the list updated....
 

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