New Cub owner......... 3184

[ngzcaz]

Hey, guys, my old D-180 finally expired, money's tight so I ended up with a 3184 with 184 hours.. Bodys in need of a redo with decals but the running gear seems sound. First thing I need to do to take off the mowing deck ( 44 inch ) which I won't use and will probably sell. I have no clue what they are worth in decent shape. More importantly do most folks stick with the Cadet oils and filters ? This owner didn't know they was a filter on the bottom of the transaxle or so he says. At 184 hrs should the whole thing be drained and refilled or just a filter change ? I'll also change the air filter and maybe the oil as well, heck its only two quarts.
I plan to put with a blade of which I have several but no mechanism to attach it or perhaps a 2 stage blower. I will have to take the snowthrower off in the summer since I have pulling tasks for it. Any idea how time consuming/labor intensive it is ? I hope this is a decent solid tractor that will give me at least 5 to 7 additional years of service. I'm particular about maintenance so I'll do my part for what its worth. Any suggestions, tips, quick fixes, mods etc I'm all ears.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

I would change the trans oil filter with the recommended Cub filter but I don't normally change the oil since it doesn't get contaminated like engine oil. The filter should be changed every 100 hours. I've been using automotive oil filters on the Kohler engines for years. 26 years on my 1450 and 11 years on my 3235. I use Fram PH3614 filters, which have the same specs as the Cub filter.

Bob B.

 

[ngzcaz]

I've been getting conflicting data as to the possibility of using a car filter for the hydro.. bottom line is I will use the CC filter unless and until I find something that convinces me otherwise. I will also use the Fram 3614 for the engine. Strangely, I don't seem to see knock down drag out opinions on what engine oil to use. I like Mystic 15/40 in my older Case 220's and the Wheel Horse in the spring summer and fall although it seems you could use regular oil in the right viscosity. Now hydro oil in the 3184's seem ( according to CC dealers ) is strictly their stuff at $ 45 a gallon. I see a lot of folks change just the filter every hundred hours instead of a full oil and filter change. I can go for that...once I give it a full change since I don't trust the first two owners that it was ever changed..

Now........ for those experienced with deck removal. How long does it take ? any preferred sequence ? Can't believe no one removes their mower deck for the next 20 years :laughing:

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

I use the same oil in my Cub that I use in my cars, usually 5W20 or 5W30. After reading several dozen posts about the Hydro oil I started using Mobil 1 10W50 synthetic. I had a leak and was going through quite a bit at $50/gal. I finally had the leak fixed to the tune of $600 for a leaking lift valve replacement but I'll stick with the Mobil 1.
I remove my deck for cleaning once a year but wouldn't compare it to removing yours. My 54 inch deck weighs 260 pounds and is a bear to remove and replace. It's driveshaft driven.
Bob B.

 

[Gator6x4]

If you have a floor jack and a hard surface, disconnect the mower deck lifting mechanism, block the rear wheels jack the front end up and pull the deck from underneath the unit. The deck is hard to slide sideways on a soil surface unless compacted and very hard.

In my 2084 I use Mobil 1 10-30 in the Kohler engine along with a Kohler oil filter. I use Cubs hydro oil and filter for the transaxle. You may want to visit the cub site and download a owner manual, they are free. On my 2084 they do mot recommend changing the hydro oil each year only the filter and then top-it-off with cub hydro oil. They only recommend replacing the hydro oil in my 2084 (owned since 1993) when the transaxle is disassembled for service. I had to replace a axle housing gasket one time and replaced the hydro fluid at that time.