New electric brakes very weak

[Adiredneck]

I installed a 3500# axle on my wood trailer on Friday night. I have a Draw-Tite Activator II installed on my tractor with a momentary push button switch to activate the brake controller (in place of the brake light). All wiring on the trailer is new, with separate grounds for both electric brakes, and separate wires for the brake (blue wire from 7-pin connector).

I have maxed out the brake controller gain, but I can barely make the brakes lock up in sand with an empty load.

I have played with the shoe adjustment, and made the shoes so tight that I can barely turn the tire. Hitting the brakes just barely puts more drag on.

My pickup has a brake controller in it, but my father has it hauling logs.

The brake controller on the tractor worked two years ago when it was in a Ford.

Since both brakes are doing the same thing, could my problem be weak voltage coming out of the controller?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

MOST trailer/truck electrical issues are related to grounding problems. Make certain you have proper ground between vehicles, controller to vehicle, brakes to trailer chassis.

NEW brakes require some break in period. Depending on brand and models, some require a few duty cycles before the magnet will "seat".

Make certain you back off brake adjustment to where you don't have a constant hard drag. That'll wear the shoes far too quickly as well as cause excessive heat (not good for a number of reasons)

 

[kenmac]

I installed a 3500# axle on my wood trailer on Friday night. I have a Draw-Tite Activator II installed on my tractor with a momentary push button switch to activate the brake controller (in place of the brake light). All wiring on the trailer is new, with separate grounds for both electric brakes, and separate wires for the brake (blue wire from 7-pin connector).

I have maxed out the brake controller gain, but I can barely make the brakes lock up in sand with an empty load.

I have played with the shoe adjustment, and made the shoes so tight that I can barely turn the tire. Hitting the brakes just barely puts more drag on.

My pickup has a brake controller in it, but my father has it hauling logs.

The brake controller on the tractor worked two years ago when it was in a Ford.

Since both brakes are doing the same thing, could my problem be weak voltage coming out of the controller?

Check the voltage at the trailer brake wire. You should have 12 volts (DC) at the brakes when the controller is activated

 

[daBear]

This should not be happening and as suggested the ground side is the normal cause. I just put brakes on both axles of my 16' utility trailer and the trouble I have is being too sensitive when empty. They will lock up in a second.

 

[Adiredneck]

I just came back down the mountain with another load of wood. The brakes ARE much better this time. I think Farmwithjunk hit the nail on the head about the break-in. I actually had to turn down the gain to keep them fron locking up with a full load.

 

[ampsucker]

agreed with FWJ. i was going to suggest you hook up the trailer to a vehicle and get some highway speed break in. once the shoes seat against the drums and the residues (dust, packing oil, etc.) heat up and burn off, you'll probably be much happier!

oh, and for what it's worth, proper adjustment is just barely touching the drums when unactivated and you'll probably have to adjust them regularly during the first year as they seat. i also find on one of my trailer brakes seems to get hotter than the other when in highway use. i've adjusted them and will have to start checking voltages next to see if one is working harder than the other. ideally you want them both to grab pretty much equally or they can contribute to fishtailing in the tow vehicle.

amp

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. I use 2 of those activator II units and love them.. grounding from trailer to truck, and the new glaze on the self energizing brakes are the usualy culprets..

soundguy