New farmer in NW PA looking to find the right tractor to bring home

[TallManFarm]

Hello,

We inherited a 48 acre farm, 25 acres are old fields formerly used for corn, hay, or alfalfa. The soil is somewhat heavy and contains clay. The farmers in the area plant mostly soybeans, hay, corn, oats, wheat, and alfalfa. Lots of grazing animals (cows, horses, llama, goats). The land is generally flat/softly rolling but rough. Lots of brush clearing and glacial activity has left behind some really nice but inappropriately positioned rocks and a few boulders that may be lurking in the overgrown fields.

The tractor dealerships are somewhat confusing and seem to want to steer us towards the in-stock compact and sub-compact tractors that look more like glorified lawn mowers, and don't look up to the task of the excavation dreams.

What is the appropriate size, wheel base, and HP that we should look for? And here's a kicker.... I'm 6'9" in height and so the cab has to have plenty of head room.

I'm borrowing from Luke82, who put together a pretty good list of tasks
1. Excavation for construction of a timber framed barn with living quarters
2. Field maintenance - disc, rake, bail, etc. A small area for deer food plots and larger fields for crops and grazing animals.
3. Land clearing - brush hogging, tree removal, leveling, removal of substantial sized rocks (think large and giant pumpkins)
4. Fence posts - auger
5. Driveway maintenance - house is at the end of a half mile private road. Hauling and spreading stone, digging new drainage, and then upkeep.
6. Snow removal - the farm is in the Lake Erie snow belt so snow is on the ground from December to March and comes in feet, not inches. A cab is a MUST!
7. Timber work is a possibility in the future as there are 23 acres of mature hardwood and softwood trees
8. Irrigation ditches to move the pooling water that is common after rain/snow melt occurs
9. Haying for the animals (round bales preferred for outside storage)

We inherited some 3-point tractor attachments (found in the weeds)
Rear blade
Double bottom plow
Post hole digger (PTO powered)
Bale fork with 2 tines (looks like it could handle smaller rounds)
Dirt bucket

Thanks in advance for any and all input! We're just starting out and really look forward to hearing from those who have farmed for 10, 20 or a lifetime.
Tall Man

 

[nybirdman]

In your case I would look for a good used Ag tractor 80-100 HP,4WD.with a loader.My nephew purchased a low hour JD(80 h.P) with a few accessories for 40K.Low hour cab unit,out of Pa.Tractors that size on not in as much demand as the smaller units are(compact) or
the very large AG type tractors(150 H.P.+)

 

[combustor]

You may want to further divide into tasks that will be one-and-done (e.g. excavation for construction) and ongoing (cultivation, driveway mx, haying, clearing).

For the one time or rare tasks, it may be more economical and less hassle to hire out or rent equipment than to buy expensive and specialized equipment that you will use one time.

You could also hire out the haying, as you don't really have enough land to be worth the hassle of equipment and larger tractor unless you just really want to.

A lot also depends on your budget. Smaller equipment can be up to most of the tasks at hand, it will just take a lot longer.

The larger utility and ag tractor cabs seem huge to me so I can't see you having an issue there. Not sure about smaller cab tractors.

I just acquired a 250 acre property that is overgrown in a lot of places. Clearing smaller trees and brush is easy with my JD 6420 (110hp). Looking forward to planting with it as well.

I'm not sure what it takes to handle snow so I'll defer to one of the northern boys.

 

[jeff9366]

TallManFarm

We inherited a 48 acre farm. 25 acres are old fields formerly used for corn, hay, or alfalfa. There are 23 acres of mature hardwood and softwood trees The soil is somewhat heavy and contains clay. The land is generally flat/softly rolling but rough. Glacial activity has left behind some really nice but inappropriately positioned rocks and a few boulders that may be lurking in the overgrown fields.

For 25 acres of crop field you need minimum 3,700 to 4,100 pound bare weight tractor, about 66" wide. In Kubota this would include the economy MX models and deluxe 'Grand L' models. These are wide enough to be stable, narrow enough to enter the woods and work there.

VIDEO: Kubota Grand L Series VS. Kubota MX Series - YouTube

For 25 acres of exclusively crop work a 5,000 pound bare weight tractor would be better but Utility Class tractors may be cumbersome in the woods, especially with a cab. In Kubota this would include Kubota 'M' models

VIDEO: Kubota M7?6? Walk Around and Driving Demo - YouTube


1. Excavation for construction of a timber framed barn with living quarters. Removal of substantial sized rocks (think large and giant pumpkins)

Contract for excavation. Have contractor move largest already discovered rocks as part of contract.


2. Field work. A small area for deer food plots and larger fields for crops and grazing animals.

3,700 pound tractor adequate but slow. 5,000 pound tractor better.

3. Land clearing:
a) brush hogging How much time do you want to mow? A six foot mower will cut 2-1/2 acres per hour. A six foot mower requires at least 45 tractor horsepower.

MOWING CALCULATOR: Mowing Calcuator | How many acres can I mow in an hour

Wider mowers require more tractor horsepower.


b) tree removal - chainsaw --Stumps to 4" can be dug with a clamp-on-bucket spade.

c) leveling 3,700 pound tractor good, 5,000 pound tractor better.

4. Fence posts - auger 3,700 pound tractor ample.

5. Driveway maintenance - house is at the end of a half mile private road. Hauling and spreading stone, digging new drainage, and then upkeep.

3,700 pound tractor good, 5,000 pound tractor better.

6. Snow removal - the farm is in the Lake Erie snow belt so snow is on the ground from December to March and comes in feet, not inches. A cab is a MUST!

Plow moves snow fastest, do you have room to pile snow until thaw?

VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tractor+snow+plow

Blower moves heavier snow. Tractor horsepower determines blower width and max distance snow can be thrown.

7. Timber work is a possibility in the future as there are 23 acres of mature hardwood and softwood trees.
3,700 pound tractor ample.

8. Irrigation ditches to move the pooling water that is common after rain/snow melt occurs

3,700 pound tractor good, 5,000 pound tractor better.

9. Haying for the animals (round bales preferred for outside storage)

Buy your hay. Hay equipment is too expensive for twenty acres.

You can move 1,200 pound round bales with a Three Point Hitch bale spear on a 3,700 pound tractor, but only lift two feet.

Stacking 1,200 pound round bales with tractor Loader requires a 5,000 pound tractor to do SAFELY.


What is the appropriate weight and HP that we should look for? And here's a kicker.... I'm 6'9" in height and so the cab has to have plenty of head room.

Leg and foot room is almost always the issue in cab tractors, seldom cab interior height.

BUCKET SPADE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/328798-bucket-spade-today-fel-bucket.html?highlight=

 

[MadGunner]

TallManFarm,

Agreed with Jeff9366 - for the excavation, clearing, grading and ditching tasks, consider organizing a list of things to get done specific to where an excavator, dozer, and/or compact track loader (CTL) will excel, and then rent the optimal equipment for the task.

Many land owners can group their digging tasks, rent or hire-out the excavator/dozer/CTL work, and it's done. Also saves on the wear-and-tear for your equipment.

Group some of the digging work with moving the big boulders, and leave the smaller rocks for the tractor.

Consider buying a grapple for your tractor to assist in moving rocks and logs. A small'ish grapple (e.g. 5' wide) is plenty capable of picking up large objects without being expensive (~$1k). Look at specs for build materials and weight capacity and compare to what your loader can lift. Once you have a grapple, you may find it become one of the most commonly used tools when it's not snowing.


Can't beat the cost of that "found" rear-mounted post hole digger, but depending on how much fence work is needed, you may want a front-mounted auger or post driver. Either can be rented, or purchased.

Examples:
Tractor Earth Auger Drives | Premier Attachments (I picked up MD09PD for ~$2K new from a tractor dealership)
Post Drivers | Danuser

In addition to digging post holes with an auger drive, it can be used with helical piers for fencing, decks, sheds and barns. Post drivers can do similar actions, especially fencing, faster than an auger. No concrete needed for helical piers or fence posts when installed this way, versus a traditional post hole digger. The primary difference is cost. Free or low-cost PTO-driven post hole diggers don't typically have any down-pressure, are difficult to control for precision, and are unlikely to screw out if you decide while digging the hole needs to move. Auger drives and post drivers are expensive in comparison, but you get a lot of interesting functionality, with down-pressure and operator-looking-forward precision, when mounted on the loader. There are also rear-mounted post drivers, if you don't want to use the equipment mounted on a loader.

Definitely add a third function valve at time or purchase so you're ready for a grapple and other loader-mounted hydraulic attachments.


Regarding cabs, I view all of the cabs on 60 HP and smaller CUT & SCUT tractors somewhat like getting in and out of a car, while the cabs on the >60 HP utility tractors are like getting in and out of pickup truck. The largest cabs are on big tractors above 100 HP, which are probably overkill in this context.

I'm only 6'2" and couldn't find a cab in a CUT that didn't feel a bit too small for lateral space and leg room. But, I can live with it, similar to driving a car. I've gotten spoiled spending years in Humvees and full-size trucks.

As with a car, it's not so bad when you're driving in a CUT cab, but getting in and out is always frustrating. Getting on/off an open station CUT is easier than navigating in and out thru the cab.

Pay attention to seat adjustments, and take a few brands for a test drive, comparing the ride quality and cab ergonomics. Cross ruts or a curb to see what it's like when you get bounced around in the cab. That's how you may find headroom challenges... probably need to wear the seat belt.

Buy the tractor with the cab you like best (or loathe the least). The rest is likely to take care of itself.

 

[TallManFarm]

AWESOME replies.

Actually sat in the M series Kubota but wasn't sure if I was overreaching. The woods are very open and were already sold for standing timber a decade back by prior owner. M models sound like a possibility for sure.

There's plenty of room for snow storage so a plow would work. The snow could actually hide some of the 30+ old tires still on the property and give us that serene look for at least a few months.

 

[Diggin It]

Do you have any experience doing any of this. You thread title 'new farmer' makes me ask.

If not, you may want to consider leasing the land for the first year or three to someone in the business that can work the fields into shape for you. Once you see what's involved, then decide on how to go from there.

If you do have the experience, disregard this.

 

[rademamj1]

I also recommend that you leave all building foundation work to contractors, unless you have experience yourself.

I just built a 3200 square feet multi-use Barn-Workshop-Office type structure with 14 foot ceilings. I only used my tractor to clear brush and clear rocky debris for the building foundation.

The select fill pad required 120 Cubic Yards, and it was built in just 10 hours by a tracked skid steer contractor who was fully experienced in building these pad sites. The entire pad was built and laser leveled and fully compacted by that 9500lb tracked skid steer in 10 hours.

Later a post tension slab was poured by a dedicated concrete foundation crew. No tractor was used for anything to do with building the pad or foundation for the Barn and Workshop.

 

[hdmyers]

Hello,

We inherited a 48 acre farm, 25 acres are old fields formerly used for corn, hay, or alfalfa. The soil is somewhat heavy and contains clay. The farmers in the area plant mostly soybeans, hay, corn, oats, wheat, and alfalfa. Lots of grazing animals (cows, horses, llama, goats). The land is generally flat/softly rolling but rough. Lots of brush clearing and glacial activity has left behind some really nice but inappropriately positioned rocks and a few boulders that may be lurking in the overgrown fields.

The tractor dealerships are somewhat confusing and seem to want to steer us towards the in-stock compact and sub-compact tractors that look more like glorified lawn mowers, and don't look up to the task of the excavation dreams.

What is the appropriate size, wheel base, and HP that we should look for? And here's a kicker.... I'm 6'9" in height and so the cab has to have plenty of head room.

I'm borrowing from Luke82, who put together a pretty good list of tasks
1. Excavation for construction of a timber framed barn with living quarters
2. Field maintenance - disc, rake, bail, etc. A small area for deer food plots and larger fields for crops and grazing animals.
3. Land clearing - brush hogging, tree removal, leveling, removal of substantial sized rocks (think large and giant pumpkins)
4. Fence posts - auger
5. Driveway maintenance - house is at the end of a half mile private road. Hauling and spreading stone, digging new drainage, and then upkeep.
6. Snow removal - the farm is in the Lake Erie snow belt so snow is on the ground from December to March and comes in feet, not inches. A cab is a MUST!
7. Timber work is a possibility in the future as there are 23 acres of mature hardwood and softwood trees
8. Irrigation ditches to move the pooling water that is common after rain/snow melt occurs
9. Haying for the animals (round bales preferred for outside storage)

We inherited some 3-point tractor attachments (found in the weeds)
Rear blade
Double bottom plow
Post hole digger (PTO powered)
Bale fork with 2 tines (looks like it could handle smaller rounds)
Dirt bucket

Thanks in advance for any and all input! We're just starting out and really look forward to hearing from those who have farmed for 10, 20 or a lifetime.
Tall Man

What is a deer food plot? Do you raise deer? or is it to attract deer to make hunting easier? WHenever i've been in PA and NY there are deer everywhere...didn't think you'd need to attract the deer..they find you anyway.

or find your car.

 

[MadGunner]

hdmyers,

Deer and wildlife food plots are where people intentionally plant food that deer eat. You can use a tractor to quickly prep the ground and plant. Generally, the tractor is used to clear brush or existing vegetation, till the soil with discs, box blade or the like, broadcast seed, then push the seed into the soil with a cultipacker, driving over the ground, covering with hay, or just leaving it for nature... Seeds in food plot mixes have a high rate of germination, and are usually annuals that pop up fast after a couple rains.

"Most folks who plant food plots for deer plant hunting plots. ... Their main functions are to draw deer for harvest and provide nutrition. Feeding plots, when used, are usually larger than hunting plots, and their main function is to serve as places where deer can feed and feel safe."

Reference: How to Plant the Best Food Plots - Planting Deer Food Plots - Breaking Ground Newsletter