New G154 Owner here

MoodyMan · Jul 24, 2017

Hi all,

So I bought my first tractor, a Bolens G154, I plan to use it mainly for maintaining my small pasture for cows, and I have a few questions.

First, its doesnt have a FEL, and seems very light in the front. What is the best way to add weight? How much do I need to add?

Second, it just had the oil filter and fuel filter changed, and all it seems to need right now is a new battery. Does anyone know what battery I should get?

Third, I've never owned a diesel before, what do I need to know?

Fourth, how big of a rough cutter can I get? I was thinking 4'

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

Moody

Ilikeurtractor · Jul 25, 2017

MoodyMan said:
Hi all,

Third, I've never owned a diesel before, what do I need to know?

Moody

I'll address the third question because it's one of my favorites. Congratulations on the purchase and welcome to the world of less headaches with a diesel! No worries about fuel getting stale, carburetor mixture issues (and carburetor problems in general), and misfiring. You'll be able to literally leave it sit for years and it will start like you ran it yesterday. Keep the oil changed regularly and maintain the basic integrity of the filters and you'll be good to go. I have a few tractors that are still running original fuel filters and seen some come in with the original air filter and, as long as they are not physically damaged or plugged, they work despite 40 years of age behind them.

It is very unusual to have problems related to fuel components with these engines. Be wary of rebuilding pumps and injectors because the shop "said they were bad". I've made that mistake and seen others who have with no noticeable change in the way the engine performs. They are very forgiving because they were not designed as "performance engines" where they are sensitive to a lot of their components being perfect. You're bigger problems are water and air in the fuel. Understand how to bleed the system if you run it low or out of fuel. Take measures to keep things dry (keep it stored inside as much as you can). Check your glow plugs to make sure they are working if it seems like it's hard to start.

In my opinion that's all you need to know

Enjoy!

MoodyMan · Jul 25, 2017

Thank you for the advice! So far all I know it needs is a battery. Seems to start up no problems with a jump.

topbuilder · Jul 25, 2017

The battery might be in the 24F range. Should be able to match at auto parts or Wal-mart. Measure the width of your back tires. 42 or 48" ? I think 42" is about right. As far as weight goes, you could gain a little by adding fluid to the tires. Maybe a brush bumper.

fxrs55 · Jul 25, 2017

I have been using a huskee battery made by Exide. The battery is around 3 years
old and still working fine. I bought it at Tractor supply.

Huskee Lawn Tractor Battery, GT-XHD - For Life Out Here

Also, How about a few pictures.

suntreemcanic · Jul 25, 2017

Get the biggest (!!!!) battery that will fit in the battery box. A battery for a 86 Mustang will just fit in there. It needs a little coaxing but it will go.. I do not know the number of the battery.

MoodyMan · Aug 6, 2017

So I found the right battery size, 51. Fits perfect, starts right up.
So, driving it around, and just going through the gears, I noticed what look like gear oil leaking at the base of the stick shift. So, I parked it, and oil is coming up at the fill hole as well. I'm hoping it was just over filled by the previous owner.
So 2 questions:
1) What color should the gear oil be?
2) What level should the gear oil be at?

Thanks

Ilikeurtractor · Aug 7, 2017

1) Not milky (white) or black
2) There is a dipstick next to the shifter with the correct level mark on it.

Seems like I read a post where someone else had oil coming out. Yes, too high of a level can cause that. Improper venting of the housing can too, although I can't remember now where the vent is.

MoodyMan · Aug 8, 2017

So, it's milky beige colored. What does that mean?
I've just changed out the gear oil, ran it through some like work. The oil looks milky, but not as bad as before.

Ilikeurtractor · Aug 8, 2017

Milky means there is water mixed in with it which is not good of course, but better than running it with no oil at all. The added water might explain the high level too coincidentally. Changing it is the only real practical option which it looks like you did. I've seen oil still milky after an oil change but running it may drive off the residual small amount of water if you can heat it up enough through operation. Try not to leave it parked in the rain as the previous owner did, or at least cover it if you can't keep it inside. I'm always amazed when I see people spend so much money on equipment then don't take care of it. Then listen to them complain later when it doesn't work...:confused3:

MoodyMan · Aug 10, 2017

Im in the process of getting a small barn build for the tractor, but I keep it covered with a tarp when not using it.
So, Im changing the gear oil again. This time I'm rinsing it with a gallon of diesel to see if I can get it clear.

New question, can anyone recommend a brush hog for this tractor? I guessing a 4ft is all it can handle, but I heard of a lighter 5ft cutter that would work for 15hp+ tractors? ANy thoughts?

Ilikeurtractor · Aug 11, 2017

Fundamentally you have a given amount of horsepower to work with, in this case around 13 hp. Yes, the "15" in the "154" designation is supposed to imply 15 hp but if you look at the engine block you'll see "13PS" stamped into it which is just under 13 hp. A "PS" is another measure of power that is slightly less than a hp. You'll hear people say "well it's a diesel so the extra torque means it can handle more" which is not accurate. Horsepower is what gets work done (at a certain rate), not torque. If torque was the ultimate answer to doing work I'd find a way to run a mower with the 1500 ft*lbs available from one of the impact wrench I have (compared to the 30 or so ft*lbs available from the engine).

Larger implements (within physical limitations) just means you will need to go slower assuming you have enough power available to overcome the inherent losses in the equipment with some to spare to do the actual work. From a practical standpoint, 4' is about as large as I would look for. The "rule-of-thumb" I've always heard is 5hp per 1' of mower. Then you can get into the type of mower as some are more efficient than others, etc. but it's a good starting point. Obviously if you stick diligently to that you're looking at 3' of mower width but it will help ensure you can travel at a "normal" speed by holding to this smaller value.

topbuilder · Aug 11, 2017

OP - I think you will be happier in the long run with a 42" cutter. It will match your HP and rear wheel width better.

MoodyMan · Aug 11, 2017

Hmmm. I'm beginning to wonder if this tractor is too small for what I want it to do. I have just over 8 acres I need to manage for my cattle, and I think a 4 foot cutter might be too small. Thoughts?

On a side note, flushing the gear oil with diesel cleaned it right up, and is now nice a clear. She's a good little tractor, just the previous owner neglected her a bit.

Ilikeurtractor · Aug 11, 2017

It comes down to how much time you have to dedicate to mowing and buy the amount of horsepower and mower necessary to get to what you have in mind. I would suspect to mow at a rate of 6mph in reasonably thick/tall grass you'll need the 5 hp/ft value.

tcreeley · Aug 11, 2017

15hp just means it takes a little longer. I had a '48 Farmall Cub which was 8hp. I got a lot done with it. I now have a 30hp for my 19 acres and it works well. Many folks like the much larger tractors 50hp and up. It is a matter of preference and money to spend.

The rule of thumb is 5 HP per foot of cutter. Thus a 5 foot bush hog requires 25 HP.
I used to use a sicklebar mower with the Farmall Cub. That worked very well. Get one second hand.
5 Foot Sickle Bar Mower For Subcompact Tractors - YouTube

Fill the rear tires with RimGuard beet juice. It is non toxic unlike antifreeze, and it won't corrode the rims and valve stems like calcium chloride.

greeno · Aug 12, 2017

I have a 4' brush hog for my 152. It cannot mow up any steep grades but will run all day; because that's how long it takes to mow my 5 acres. Also have a sickle bar that doesn't require as much HP but half the width so no real advantage.

tcreeley · Aug 12, 2017

Your tractor could easily handle a 5' sicklebar mower.

I like sicklebar mowers. Here is a you tube sicklebar mower at work. Sure beats a 42" mower.
For years I used the same combination to cut the goldenrod and small spruce that were growing up in my back pasture.