Buying Advice New guy without a clue!

[taylorce1]

New guy here, not new to tractors but new to compact tractors. I grew up farming and ranching in southeast Colorado, now just running a few cows as a hobby. I have access to tractors to maintain my 13 acres of property, but it's a 130 mile round trip to go get a tractor with FEL or brush mower, and 130 mile round trip to take them back to the family farm.

To make a long story short I'm way out of my element with tractors less than 100 up. I tried finding used and only found one I kind of liked, all tractors were priced with FEL and brush mowers.

1. 1999 Kubota L3010 HST 1150 HRS $15000
2. 2017 Kioti CK3510 shuttle $21000
3. 2017 Kubota L3910 HST $24000
4. 2014 LS L4040 3 HRS $26000

I liked the LS L4040 and the Kubota L3010 the best out of all the tractors I looked at. The 2017 models just didn't feel as solid to me. Hands down I like the idea of the LS but it's about $6000 over what I initially budgeted myself. The LS is heavier, has better loader specs, warranty, rear remotes and more HP, I kind of wanted a hydro transmission with cruise control so that's the down side. The Kubota has the HST with CC, but that's the only advantages I see over the LS. However, it is $11K cheaper to start with but I don't need a lot of implements. I already have a 6' blade and box blade, bale spear, and post hole drill for the 3pt that dad said I could have since they're too small for the current tractors he owns.

There is one other option that I've been kicking around and that fairly decent JD 4020 with Koyker FEL and 8' mower for $15K. It's 200 miles away in Kansas and the other tractors are within 30 miles of my house, except the Kioti it's 100 miles away. Except the Kioti I have all the tractor parts within 30 miles of my house as well.

 

[jeff9366]

What is your altitude in Los Aniams, CO?

If you are 4,000 to 5,000 feet you should consider one increment more horsepower than at lower altitude.

At around 6,000+ feet a turbo-charged engine will make you happier.


Be more specific about maintaining 13 acres with cows.

Do you have secure tractor storage on your land?

 

[Grandad4]

I personally like the L3010 because it's the little brother to my own tractor that has been dead solid dependable since 2002, but with only 30 hp, the L3010 was a bit underpowered for its weight and would struggle with your elevation and any grades on your property, particularly if you're driving a 6' cutter through any kind of heavy growth. 1150 hours is light use if it has been well cared for, but anything used should get a careful look before buying. Being 2017 models, the two other Kubotas have the latest EPA required Tier 4 pollution controls, which evidently work OK on these models, but that's a turn-off for some folks. LS makes a good tractor according to most owners, but it's not yet a well-established brand in the US market, which is reflected in both new and resale pricing. I would think any of these would make a reliable tractor for you, and probably need less tinkering than the old 4020.

 

[SammyNole]

I am new too, so I am not sure that I can provide much information. But I did want to point out something. I looked at all the same brands you mentioned, and explored primarily used Kubotas as well. The prices seem way high to me. I just bought a CK4010HST w/ FEL for $18,800 with two sets of rear remotes installed brand new. I think the CK3510HST priced out at around $17,500. I have not put many hours on it at all, but so far I am very happy with the tractor, and my dealer is a 2.5 hour drive from me. For me, it was a combination of price and ergonomics that made my decision. I actually "bought" or at least had a contract on a used Kubota. When I drove 6 hours away to pick it up, I discovered the HST output shaft seal was leaking and the dealer would not replace it or take money off. Even though I have all the knowledge, skills, abilities, and tools to do this job, I do not have the time nor desire to split a tractor I just purchased to replace the seal. For me, a new tractor with warranty made much more sense, and I only wound up spending about $4k more for a larger frame, brand new tractor with 10 more hp and 6 years of warranty (although it does have the DPF, but I am not too concerned with it). I suppose it is all about what you prioritize, but for me this was the way to go.

Anyway, the point I wanted to make is that I learned that dealers have two or three different pricing structures, which was new to me. There is the 0% financing option, which is the highest price (which is probably what they are showing you), then the "cash" price, which is what I bought at. I did not pay cash, but rather financed through a 3rd party finance company, DLL Finance, with 5.85% interest. My wife is an honest-to-goodness mathematician, and we ran the numbers every which way, and it comes out to about $1 or so difference in the monthly payments when you add the finance fee and the monthly insurance payment, and pretty much dead nuts same money for the life of the loan. And this was for 60 months "cash" 3rd party financed versus 84 month 0%. It just looks better because we financed less money. Some dealers or finance companies also have a middle plan, I think Mahindra called it "Rock Bottom" pricing, which kind of splits the difference. Just some food for thought that I never knew about.

 

[taylorce1]

What is your altitude in Los Aniams, CO?

If you are 4,000 to 5,000 feet you should consider one increment more horsepower than at lower altitude.

At around 6,000+ feet a turbo-charged engine will make you happier.


Be more specific about maintaining 13 acres with cows.

Do you have secure tractor storage on your land?

4400 feet of elevation on my property some grade but not very steep.

Right now all the livestock I have on the property are four horses. This winter I'll have two show steers for my daughter. The remainder of my cattle are on leased property or my families ranch 65 miles north of my 13 acres that my house sits on.

At most I'll have 3-4 round bales a year that I'll need to move, 3pt is okay. I've been doing it with a trailer and my pickup, but it would be nice to have something that could tip them on end. The rest for the horses are small squares.

The place was vacant for nearly two years before I bought it. It gets overgrown with Kochia weeds and sunflowers in the summer, I usually burn them off after the first good snow in the fall. I do have some dead Elm and Cottonwood trees I need to remove as well. Not to mention a lot of the fence had blown in with sand and tumble weeds during the last drought. I've cleaned most of it up, but there are some places I can't get to with the big tractor.

I have a 40X60 shop and 60X120 hay barn on the property. More than likely I could fit it inside of my three car detached garage as well if I fold the ROPS. Storage isn't going to be much of a problem.

 

[paulfun9]

The price fro the LS sounds high to me also. Just a couple months ago I was quoted 26,395 for a 2016 LS with cab and loader. so unless its a cab and a typo with your date the price is high IMHO.

I found that some dealers have much higher prices than the next dealer of the same brand. For example the first price I was given on a Kioti DK was 7000.00 higher than the next 2 dealers I called. The 3rd dealer was only 2000.00 higher but in the end I was able to get the tractor with the backhoe for less than the first dealer wanted for just the tractor and loader. SO it might be wise to shop around for a better price especially if your buying new

 

[jeff9366]

I expect you are pretty dry at 4,400 feet altitude in Colorado.

With hooved animals grazing the land you may wish to consider a Subsoiler for periodic aeration or keylining. Subsoiling is an alternate to plowing, discing, dragging and seeding which maintains your pasture in continuous use and requires just the one piece of equipment.

You may be able to use Subsoiler to cut roots on decayed Elms and Cottonwoods, prior to pulling out the stumps.

Buy a Subsoiler with shear-bolt protection.

VIDEO: subsoiler ripper - YouTube

subsoiler keylining - YouTube

 

[DieselBound]

Things to think about...

What's dealer support like for these tractors there?

List down all the tasks that you know you will need to do, then add some possible tasks (and some "would be nice to be able to dos") and figure the necessary power requirements.

How many hours do you expect you'll be out with the tractor? What kind of weather? Would a cab make things more efficient?

How much fencing work do you expect to have to do? Would you feel that a tractor necessary for this?

Is there any equipment rental places nearby? With lower use needs it might be more cost effective to rent equipment.

Perhaps a nicely outfitted UTV with a good trailer would be able to handle a lot of what needs to be done: you could readily shuttle these around. Then have more of a beater tractor that can do some of the heavy lifting, something that could be left on-side.

 

[taylorce1]

The price fro the LS sounds high to me also. Just a couple months ago I was quoted 26,395 for a 2016 LS with cab and loader. so unless its a cab and a typo with your date the price is high IMHO.

I found that some dealers have much higher prices than the next dealer of the same brand. For example the first price I was given on a Kioti DK was 7000.00 higher than the next 2 dealers I called. The 3rd dealer was only 2000.00 higher but in the end I was able to get the tractor with the backhoe for less than the first dealer wanted for just the tractor and loader. SO it might be wise to shop around for a better price especially if your buying new

All new 2016-2017 40hp LS tractors with a cab have been quoted to me at $30K within 300 miles, and that's with my own financing. I can get a used 2014 4046 with a cab for $25K if I go a little further out to south of OKC or down into TX. Then I have to add back in freight, or my time to go get it and haul it back. I do have some small horse/cattle sheds that a cab will prevent me from getting under to clean, but a cab is always nice especially when it's a 107 or -10 outside.

I expect you are pretty dry at 4,400 feet altitude in Colorado.

With hooved animals grazing the land you may wish to consider a Subsoiler for periodic aeration or keylining. Subsoiling is an alternate to plowing, discing, dragging and seeding which maintains your pasture in continuous use and requires just the one piece of equipment.

You may be able to use Subsoiler to cut roots on decayed Elms and Cottonwoods, prior to pulling out the stumps.

Buy a Subsoiler with shear-bolt protection.

We call them "rippers" out here, I'm very familiar with them. We have a 7 tooth ripper tool bar out at the farm. If I need to rip the land I'll just go get it and the bigger tractor to make very short work out of the whole process.

Things to think about...

What's dealer support like for these tractors there?

List down all the tasks that you know you will need to do, then add some possible tasks (and some "would be nice to be able to dos") and figure the necessary power requirements.

How many hours do you expect you'll be out with the tractor? What kind of weather? Would a cab make things more efficient?

How much fencing work do you expect to have to do? Would you feel that a tractor necessary for this?

Is there any equipment rental places nearby? With lower use needs it might be more cost effective to rent equipment.

Perhaps a nicely outfitted UTV with a good trailer would be able to handle a lot of what needs to be done: you could readily shuttle these around. Then have more of a beater tractor that can do some of the heavy lifting, something that could be left on-side.

I don't have a UTV, but I do have an Sportsman 500 quad and it's handy and does a lot of work. The main reason for wanting a tractor is that I fell off a ladder a year ago, and shattered my right leg. 13 rods and a fixator held my leg together until enough bone grew back for the current two titanium plates I have and 20+ screws I have in my ankle to be attached to. I also have an ankle fusion that limits my mobility. A lot of the grunt work I used to do manually I'm not able to do anymore.

Closest rental place is 40 min away, and I've rented a Bobcat a couple of times and a mini trencher. The issue is they don't have a lot of equipment, and a lot of it is nearly wore out. Other than that I'd have to go to Pueblo which is 90 miles away or Colorado Springs 120 miles to get really decent rental equipment. So those two options severely cut into the hours I can actually operate the equipment by the time I drive to get the equipment and drive to return it.

I have good support for all the tractors I've looked at within 30 miles of my house and property. Except Kioti which is 100 miles from my house. The Kioti while okay was my least favorite of all the tractors I've looked at.

 

[Fallon]

I'm selling my L3200 here in Parker (Denver, 6,000' or so) for $18,500. Upgrading to a cabbed Grand. It's the same frame as the L3901 you mentioned. The only time I lack HP is roading it up hills. Mowing is generally limited by terrain & my spine (running my huge 7' flail does slow me down in dense stuff, but it's pretty big for this machine).

You mentioned round bales. I've moved a barn full of large square bales (lift & load onto a trailer on a bit of a slope, then unload a mile or 2 away) for a friend, allegedly 1,200lbs bales. I could barely lift them & stability was questionable. You need a heavier tractor if you are going to be lifting more than 1,000lbs much at all. The LS is a frame size up from the other 3 you listed & should be ok, but not great for big bales. The rest including mine will be marginal to lift & carry big bales if they are even able to do so.

Kubota L32 HST tractor, loader & possibly impliments