dan28040
Bronze Member
I have a question. i broke the belt that runs the pick up. The belt goes behind a set of gears. Does anyone know to get one gear off to replace the belt
new holland 565 square baler
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RickB
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Remove the gear that is on the knotter shaft. Make certain to maintain knotter timing.
Unexplained belt breakage is directly related to overtightening the belt.
An operator's manual explains belt R&R and tensioning.
Unexplained belt breakage is directly related to overtightening the belt.
An operator's manual explains belt R&R and tensioning.
Robert_in_NY
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Rick, when I first got my 575 I broke this belt when the pickup hit a large woodchuck mound (I was baling a dairy farm that was neglected but I did spend a lot of hours shooting chucks there). It was when I first got it and I am now wondering if it was the mound or if the belt was too tight from either the dealer or the previous owner. What do you think? Could it have been the mound, too tight or just a freak thing. I have been a lot more careful since then to keep the pickup away from mounds and ridges that would cause the teeth to make hard contact with the soil. It was a fun get to know your baler moment though.
RickB
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Proper belt tension will allow it to slip rather than break is situations like that. There is no slip clutch protection for the pickup like there was with older baler having chain drive pickups.
coondle
Bronze Member
The pickup belt on the 570 and 575 balers are designed to slip if the pickup is overloaded it is the belt that is the overload protection and if it doesn't slip can result in overfeeding causing packer fork damage mis-shapen bales with more material in the LHS of the bale and will tear the belt apart (better than the pickup itself) ie the belt is the slip clutch
The pickup belt is spring tensioned through a pivoting idler arm with pulley, it has to be tight enough to get power through but surprisingly should slip on EVERY stroke if baling at or near baler capacity
There must be no oil, grease, or lubricant of any kind
The pulley sheaves must be free of paint and rust
Paint when new rust after that and particularly at the sart of the season
Clear the paint/rust by loosening the belt off and permitting slippagOn my new machine to get slippage at all I put an extension in between the adjuster and the spring
Once free of paint/rust re-tension the belt
The right tension delivers about 150 and about 190 ftlbs torque to the pickup
How done
Put a lever in through the wind guards on the pickup over the tyne bar and under the centre shaft
3 feet 36 inches or 900mm from the centre shaft get a spring balance pulling down
A second person then turns the flywheel the correct way and watch the spring balance
65 lbs or 29.5kg at that distance is about the max torque setting
50 lbs or 22.7kg is about the min
The pickup belt is spring tensioned through a pivoting idler arm with pulley, it has to be tight enough to get power through but surprisingly should slip on EVERY stroke if baling at or near baler capacity
There must be no oil, grease, or lubricant of any kind
The pulley sheaves must be free of paint and rust
Paint when new rust after that and particularly at the sart of the season
Clear the paint/rust by loosening the belt off and permitting slippagOn my new machine to get slippage at all I put an extension in between the adjuster and the spring
Once free of paint/rust re-tension the belt
The right tension delivers about 150 and about 190 ftlbs torque to the pickup
How done
Put a lever in through the wind guards on the pickup over the tyne bar and under the centre shaft
3 feet 36 inches or 900mm from the centre shaft get a spring balance pulling down
A second person then turns the flywheel the correct way and watch the spring balance
65 lbs or 29.5kg at that distance is about the max torque setting
50 lbs or 22.7kg is about the min
WNM
New member
Dan.
You have to remove timing cam in front of the knotter gear. Pull the cotter pin and loosen the bolt inside the cam (3/4" wrench). This will let the cam slide but the cam follower will prevent removal. Mark the position then remove the stop on the left side of the lever that the cam follower is attached to. This works best with two men. Lever the trip mechanism so the cam follower will clear the cam. Hold back the spring loaded lever on the left side and slide the cam off. Don't loose the shims under the cotter. Remove the "D" key from the shaft. Mark the gear teeth alignment. Now you can slide the gear enough to get the belt on. Pull the cover from the bottom sheave. Replace belt with spring loaded idler on back of belt. Reassemble in reverse order. Note: belt tension is controlled by the idler.
WNM
You have to remove timing cam in front of the knotter gear. Pull the cotter pin and loosen the bolt inside the cam (3/4" wrench). This will let the cam slide but the cam follower will prevent removal. Mark the position then remove the stop on the left side of the lever that the cam follower is attached to. This works best with two men. Lever the trip mechanism so the cam follower will clear the cam. Hold back the spring loaded lever on the left side and slide the cam off. Don't loose the shims under the cotter. Remove the "D" key from the shaft. Mark the gear teeth alignment. Now you can slide the gear enough to get the belt on. Pull the cover from the bottom sheave. Replace belt with spring loaded idler on back of belt. Reassemble in reverse order. Note: belt tension is controlled by the idler.
WNM
