New Holland Quick Attach Mod

Dodds · Aug 6, 2009

Ok Guys, I need help here. Lets see if I get any hits here in "Build-It Yourself", before I try "Customization". I would like to modify my existing New Holland Quick Attach Loader Plates to be hydraulically actuated, but cannot come up with the correct actuator geometry to get full latch / unlatch. Ideally, I want to keep the existing handles in place to be able to use the system manually as well as hydraulically (Fluid resistance would be removed by connecting the two hydraulic lines together).

If I could find 2 small hyd cylinders in an approximately 1/2" ram x 8" stroke, I think I can get this to work, but I have not had any luck finding that size. My next option is using 1 larger cylinder, but then run into the actuator geometry problems to get both levers move fully both directions.

I know there have to be some fabricating geniuses out there that can shed some light on this. I'm tired of the off, on, off, on the seat as often as 6 times an hour.

mjncad · Aug 6, 2009

How come so many times on and off the tractor each hour swapping out implements?

I doubt you'll find hydraulic cylinders as small as you need. Your choices are electric linear actuators or air cylinders. I'd go electric, otherwise you need to come up with a way to have an on-board air system.

I think Surplus Center has electric linear actuators, and I know they have air cylinders.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp

Dodds · Aug 6, 2009

Multiple jobs going on at one time and lots of impliments. I'm afraid electrical acuators would not have the torque required to overcome the pin springs, and pneumatic would raise to many issues with adding a pump and selector valves for dual throw. Hydraulic is available and ready to go.

RickB · Aug 6, 2009

Current NH skid steers offer hydraulic operation of the QA device as an option. You could search NH parts for a diagram, or find one to look at in person. They use one cylinder to operate both latches and a solenoid valve to divert flow from the curl circuit.

Dodds · Aug 6, 2009

I looked at the Skid Steer option last year, and determined it could not be modified to the existing setup and still keep the handles. I did find an electrical actuators that may work. My plan is to build a mounting pad on the cross brace between the attachment pads and then direct to the handles.

PS. RickB, We previously discussed upping the HP on the TC45. I removed the factory muffler and built a straight pipe off the manifold to exit at the factory location. I then turned up the fuel screw, and turned down the topping. I had it dynode before and after the changes and got 4.3HP at the PTO. The engine now starts on the first cylinder compression, runs cooler under load, and doesn't bog down when doing heavy mulching with my flail. Cheep fix, works good, noise increase negligible.

kennyd · Aug 6, 2009

Dodds said:
I want to keep the existing handles in place to be able to use the system manually as well as hydraulically (Fluid resistance would be removed by connecting the two hydraulic lines together).

I don't think this is going to work very well, there is a different volume of fluid in each side of the cylinder, so you will only be able to move the cylinder to about 80% of it's travel. Possibly that will be enough for your application-but you should be aware of it ahead of time...

mjncad · Aug 7, 2009

I wouldn't give up on the electric actuators as I've seen applications for them ranging from Lamborghini scissor style doors to small dump cart hoists.

Dodds · Aug 7, 2009

mjncad, I'm taking your advice. I hadn't looked, or thought hard enough about going electric. I had the Hydraulic Circuit available and had tunnel vision. Electric will actually be the better choice as it will keep my third function available for my Grapple, Auger, Rock Hound, and Jack Hammer/Post driver.