I recently bought a newer home on 1 acre. Since about half of it is grass, you can imagine my excitement when I was able to finally buy a rider! The previous owner of the house had an older Grasshopper 1212 ZTR that he was willing to sell. After about 2 months of mowing with it, my yard was starting to get a little tore up. The ZTR concept is great, but if you aren't careful you'll reel the tires off everytime you come out of a turn. Plus, I wanted to be able to pull a cart and a sweeper and such. There is an older gentleman near my house who fixes up JD mowers and sells them. On a whim, I stopped by and he had a 185 in near perfect shape. It had a new seat, good paint, and all of the plastic and warning lights were in good shape. He also had a JD dozer blade that fit it (with a little modofication!). Since buying it, I've fallen in love with the way it cuts, and how comfortable it is. But I'm a little leery of some of the details he gave me at the time of sale. He told me that it had a 14 horse Kawasaki, and that the tractor is only 10 years old. My limited research has shown that it has a 17 horse Kaw, and that the mower is closer to 20 years old. Just curious if I was hornswaggled into buying the old equivalent of an L111. Also, would anyone have a guess as to the value of the mower? It supposedly has a 48" deck. The serial number is M00185B027094. Thanks in advance.
New JD fan, have a question
- Thread starter KyleLevi
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RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
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- 23,144
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- Bethel, Vermont
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- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
Since he buys and sells them, his info may have been based upon what he was told when he got the machine. Or, he may have hornswaggled you. That's happens to most of us sometime or another...
If you're happy with the tractor and, apparently not too dissatisfied with the price, why not just enjoy the machine?
If you're happy with the tractor and, apparently not too dissatisfied with the price, why not just enjoy the machine?
Is it a 185 or 185 Hydro?
The 48" deck was the bigger of the two decks available. Check it CAREFULLY for any rust problems, particularly underneath. A new deck, bare, (not bearings, spindles, etc) can easily be $1k if there is even any left.
The Hydro version will last longer and be worth more than the geared version.
The Kawi motor is a good motor that should have full pressurised lubrication with a replacable oil filter.
How much did/does he want for it?
The 48" deck was the bigger of the two decks available. Check it CAREFULLY for any rust problems, particularly underneath. A new deck, bare, (not bearings, spindles, etc) can easily be $1k if there is even any left.
The Hydro version will last longer and be worth more than the geared version.
The Kawi motor is a good motor that should have full pressurised lubrication with a replacable oil filter.
How much did/does he want for it?
JDFANATIC
Veteran Member
All 185's were hydro. In that era the 5 that the number ended in indicated that: 165, 175, 185, 755, 855, 955; when the redesigned 400 series came out, the numbers were: 425, 445, 455. Also the 185 came either with a 38" or 46" deck. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
JDFANATIC
Veteran Member
Kyle,
My old 185 was a 1989; I think $1200 may have been a little high, although the hours aren't known (that tractor didn't come with an hour meter), but it certainly is a good tractor, and if kept up should give you a wonderful value for years to come.
My old 185 was a 1989; I think $1200 may have been a little high, although the hours aren't known (that tractor didn't come with an hour meter), but it certainly is a good tractor, and if kept up should give you a wonderful value for years to come.
joecdeere
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- 1948 Allis UC Hi-Crop Cane 1941 Allis WC 1948 Allis G with loader, 1948 Allis G with dual disc 1948 Allis G 1948 Allis G 1949 Allis G 1954 Allis G 1959 Ferguson TO-35 1972 MF 135 1979 Power King 2418 1989 Ford 345C TLB
1986 MODEL WITH 970 MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185A372001-420000)
1987 MODEL WITH 38" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185A440001-450000)
1988 MODEL WITH 38" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185A495001-505000)
1989 MODEL WITH 38" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185A595001-750000) *
1990 MODEL WITH 38" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185A010001-100000)
1986 MODEL WITH 1170 MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B378001-420000)
1987 MODEL WITH 46" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B450001-475000)
1988 MODEL WITH 46" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B505001-595000)
1989 MODEL WITH 46" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B605001-750000) *
1990 MODEL WITH 46" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B020001-100000)
* NOTE: REGARD 1990 MODEL SERIAL NUMBERS (010001-100000) HIGHER THAN 1989 MODEL
1987 MODEL WITH 38" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185A440001-450000)
1988 MODEL WITH 38" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185A495001-505000)
1989 MODEL WITH 38" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185A595001-750000) *
1990 MODEL WITH 38" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185A010001-100000)
1986 MODEL WITH 1170 MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B378001-420000)
1987 MODEL WITH 46" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B450001-475000)
1988 MODEL WITH 46" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B505001-595000)
1989 MODEL WITH 46" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B605001-750000) *
1990 MODEL WITH 46" MOWER AND 17 H.P. ENGINE (S.N. M00185B020001-100000)
* NOTE: REGARD 1990 MODEL SERIAL NUMBERS (010001-100000) HIGHER THAN 1989 MODEL
hobbyfarm
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I gave him $1200 for the tractor and the blade. It is a hydrostat, and like I said, in near perfect cosmetic condition. No smoke, no rattles, no bad vibrations. I would just hate to think that I got bent over on the deal. )</font>
KyleLevi,
First, welcome to TBN.
I've got a 180 w/ 46" mower. Purchased in early '86. It is an awesome tractor. The Kawasaki motor is one of the best air-cooled engines ever. The engine is a bulletproof tank. I have well over 2000 hours on mine. (I put an hour meter on it, and it died in the late '90's with 2300 something on the clock.) I felt guilty about 10 years ago and replaced the spark plug! It still starts and runs perfect.
Now, what sucks on the tractor.
Do NOT leave the ignition key in the switch. It corrodes the terminals inside, namely the purple lead that engages the starter solenoid. I'm on about my 7th switch. At $15.00 or so a pop, I've been jumping from the battery to the solenoid terminal at the starter (sorry, It's not the perfect tractor, and I'm cheap). I had a JD battery boil over and ruin a fuse holder and PTO switch. I'm on my 5th battery now, this battery has been really good. I've already had to rebuild the transaxle. Also, had to repaint the fender. The paint would lift off in large flakes.
That's it.
Change your oil and maintenance the air filter regularly. Keep the mower deck clean, top & bottom. Don't be lazy, remove the belt shields to clean under them. If you use water, make sure you air dry it well. Otherwise, it will rust in no time flat. Once it starts rusting around the bolts that hold the bearing casings of the blade spindles, it's too late (the blade torque will finish it off quickly). Also likes to rust where the rear lateral links fall on the deck. This is an ongoing fight to keep the rust off here. And yes, it will cost over $1,000 to replace the deck and rebuild it like new. Also, don't let the blade bolts stay too long, the hex will get completely rounded over time and then they are a bear to remove.
Now, for some good news.
Oil Filters:
John Deere oil filter - expensive - #AM107423
Wix oil filter - 51394 - much better. Fram oil filter - PH4967 - better still (It's a common Toyota filter). About 1/3 the price of OEM. Purolator oil filter - L414476 unknown?
Air Filters:
Much less choice here.
John Deere Air filter - expensive - #M97266 Paper filter.
John Deere Air filter - expensive for what it is - M70127 Foam Pre Filter - Never have found an aftermarket for this. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Wix Air Filter - 42439
Fram Air Filter - CA8593
Fuel Filter
John Deere Fuel Filter - AM107314 - Never have found an aftermarket for this either.
If you can, always use NGK spark plugs.
NGK #BPR5ES .025gap.
I guess that's all the advise I can give you. Oh, yeah, be sure to register at <font color="green">John Deere</font> so you can take advantage of the parts lists, etc.
Have fun with your new tractor.
KyleLevi,
First, welcome to TBN.
I've got a 180 w/ 46" mower. Purchased in early '86. It is an awesome tractor. The Kawasaki motor is one of the best air-cooled engines ever. The engine is a bulletproof tank. I have well over 2000 hours on mine. (I put an hour meter on it, and it died in the late '90's with 2300 something on the clock.) I felt guilty about 10 years ago and replaced the spark plug! It still starts and runs perfect.
Now, what sucks on the tractor.
Do NOT leave the ignition key in the switch. It corrodes the terminals inside, namely the purple lead that engages the starter solenoid. I'm on about my 7th switch. At $15.00 or so a pop, I've been jumping from the battery to the solenoid terminal at the starter (sorry, It's not the perfect tractor, and I'm cheap). I had a JD battery boil over and ruin a fuse holder and PTO switch. I'm on my 5th battery now, this battery has been really good. I've already had to rebuild the transaxle. Also, had to repaint the fender. The paint would lift off in large flakes.
That's it.
Change your oil and maintenance the air filter regularly. Keep the mower deck clean, top & bottom. Don't be lazy, remove the belt shields to clean under them. If you use water, make sure you air dry it well. Otherwise, it will rust in no time flat. Once it starts rusting around the bolts that hold the bearing casings of the blade spindles, it's too late (the blade torque will finish it off quickly). Also likes to rust where the rear lateral links fall on the deck. This is an ongoing fight to keep the rust off here. And yes, it will cost over $1,000 to replace the deck and rebuild it like new. Also, don't let the blade bolts stay too long, the hex will get completely rounded over time and then they are a bear to remove.
Now, for some good news.
Oil Filters:
John Deere oil filter - expensive - #AM107423
Wix oil filter - 51394 - much better. Fram oil filter - PH4967 - better still (It's a common Toyota filter). About 1/3 the price of OEM. Purolator oil filter - L414476 unknown?
Air Filters:
Much less choice here.
John Deere Air filter - expensive - #M97266 Paper filter.
John Deere Air filter - expensive for what it is - M70127 Foam Pre Filter - Never have found an aftermarket for this. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Wix Air Filter - 42439
Fram Air Filter - CA8593
Fuel Filter
John Deere Fuel Filter - AM107314 - Never have found an aftermarket for this either.
If you can, always use NGK spark plugs.
NGK #BPR5ES .025gap.
I guess that's all the advise I can give you. Oh, yeah, be sure to register at <font color="green">John Deere</font> so you can take advantage of the parts lists, etc.
Have fun with your new tractor.
