New Jinma 254 - Help please!

pasturesnew · May 29, 2005

Hi All,

I've just assembled my 254-in-a-crate over the weekend. It is factory stamped March 2005 and has the integrated instrument cluster with 5+2 rocker switches (labelled A-G). The manuals supplied seem to be older versions and have not been much help, so I have a few problems / questions I hope you may be kind enough to help me with:

1) When I turn the ignition switch to H (preheat) the 30A fuse labelled ammeter (top position) blows. The 30A fuse labelled preheat (bottom position) is fine. The ammeter fuse does NOT blow if I turn straight to start - engine fires up OK. Have I wired the ignition switch wrong?

2) There are no front sidelights or dipped headlights - all four front lamps come on when switched by the 'main beam' switch B. The sidelights switch (C) only illuminates the rear lights. Switch B is single position - how do you get dipped lights?

3) Related to above, can anyone provide an up-to-date wiring diagram?

4) Where are the drain plugs for the front axle, transmission and rear axle? (Mine don't match the manual diagrams).

5) I can't find a grease point for the water pump. Has Jinma switched to sealed units?

6) The battery now seems to sit in a cage immediately behind, and level with, the front weights. But there don't seem to be any clamps to stop it shaking around. Are these missing or I am expected to fabricate some?

All responses gratefully received!

thingy · May 29, 2005

Well,lets start somewheres,,,don't need [can't grease water pump] on the 254,,,mine anyways,,no grease fitting,,just for some 204's,,,, drain plugs,,,,front axil,,little tiny square plugs,,located middle and each end,,,be carefull,,paint makes them to tight and they are small,,,,,trans,,,,in front of sliding hitch thing,,two bolts,,can't miss them,,and on bottom of forward differental...maybe another one but thats all I ever took out,,,,,,there is none for rear axil,,,trans.,,,covers that,,,my northern manual tells all this with pictures,,,where did you buy yours from?????oh,,thats right,,a crate special,,love it,,,,,can't help you with rest.....thingy

greg_g · May 29, 2005

1. Very common to have something other than the required 30A system fuse in new machines. There should be a spare 30A fuse (green). That should fix your problem.

2. If you've got H3 bulbs, there's only one brightness level. If you've got H4, you've wired up the switch wrong. Can't help you with the ABCs, sorry. Usually all lighting (less work light) is on a 2-position switch, and rear work light is on a single position switch. Sidelights? You mean they're not there? or don't work?

3. Sorry. If you've got a 2005 tractor, nobody's gonna have books newer than those that came with yours.

4. not to sound patronizing, but you might be reading the manual wrong.
Ordinarily I'd expect three drains on the front end; normal one in the center pumpkin, one small one on the bottom of each drive hub.
Creeper/shuttle; one, above the drive shaft.
Tranny; one, left side of the transfer case.
Rear diff; one for sure - maybe two - underside of the diff housing, all the way to the back

5. Sorry. Does your manual SAY there's supposed to be a fitting? Sometimes it's just a hole (need a grease gun adapter). Or you may be right about it being a sealed unit.

6. I've heard this complaint before, most folks find their own way to secure the battery.

//greg//

JINMA224XR · May 29, 2005

1) When I turn the ignition switch to H (preheat) the 30A fuse labelled ammeter (top position) blows. The 30A fuse labelled preheat (bottom position) is fine. The ammeter fuse does NOT blow if I turn straight to start - engine fires up OK. Have I wired the ignition switch wrong?

2) There are no front sidelights or dipped headlights - all four front lamps come on when switched by the 'main beam' switch B. The sidelights switch (C) only illuminates the rear lights. Switch B is single position - how do you get dipped lights?

5) I can't find a grease point for the water pump. Has Jinma switched to sealed units?

6) The battery now seems to sit in a cage immediately behind, and level with, the front weights. But there don't seem to be any clamps to stop it shaking around. Are these missing or I am expected to fabricate some?

All responses gratefully received! )

Hey Pastures,

On my 224, someone had the wrong size/10A fuse in the preheat slot and I had to put in a 30a to prevent it from blowing.

On my 224, there is no lower beam switch either, but they are brighter than the headlights in my pickup truck. I would like to be able to aim them better, but have not seen an ajustment for that yet. And all 4 up front on mine turn on at the same time also.

I haven't been able to find a grease fitting on my water pump either, but I haven't been looking for a hole, so maybe I better take a better look.

Battery holder seems to be the same as mine with no hold down strap. Mine is a sealed battery and I didn't think that a hold down strap was really needed, as it does have a bar across the top of the holder to keep the battery from coming out. However the battery terminals did not have a plastic cover, so I went by Advance Auto and bought a Positive and Negative plastic cover to shield the Battery terminals, just in case the battery ever did get jolted upwards enough to make contact with the chassis. A hold down strap would be best though, and I may install one later on.

I know that I missed some of the Question #'s, but my small brain is running low and I now have to go get recharged.

It would be helpful, if I had some of Dick's Moonshine. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Hey Dick, will MoonShine work as fuel in a combustible engine?

I think Greg and Dick, covered most of the other #'s.

Did you get shuttle shift with your 254?

Get Your Tractors Running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

pasturesnew · May 30, 2005

Many thanks 'thingy', Joe and Greg for your prompt and helpful replies.

The system fuse was 30A and green. So was the replacement and the one after that .... they just keep blowing if I try to start with pre-heat. Fortunately it is about 70F here so starting OK. But need to get it sorted before the winter, so please keep suggesting!

You 3 dealt with other points fine. My Chinese manuals don't differentiate between a plug and a bolt. Most of the plugs you mentioned are fitted with shake-proof steel washers, not copper or rubber, so I assumed they were mounting bolts /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Another one for you: There is a gas spring fitted to hold the hood open. Problem is it won't close - if I press hard, the fibreglass just bends - and I guess it is too strong for the light body. For now, just using it as a prop.

Again many, many thanks - you guys are really kind to take the trouble to reply.

billbill1 · May 30, 2005

Try unhooking the glow plugs from the 12v and see if your fuse still blows, you must have something touching ground to blow a 30 amp fuse. Hook them back up one at a time trying to heat until you find which one is the faulty glow plug. All of the electrical connections seem to have paint under the crimp fittings and should be removed. Since you bought a crate tractor, I would assume that you'll have to buy a new gas shock.

pasturesnew · May 30, 2005

Thank you, Bill.

I'll try your suggestion as soon as it stops raining /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Re. the gas shock, the deal is parts only warranty for one year. To minimise shipping cost, I'm hoping to identify all the problems and then request the whole batch.

Thanks again.
ACM

billbill1 · May 30, 2005

If you have a multimeter you could also check the circuit to ground and see what reading you get. I didn't know how the warranty thing would work on a crate tractor. I got the 284 LE , it's the same tractor as the 254, did you get shuttle shift? Mine has it and I really like it so far, I have about 100 hours. You'll have a few bugs to work out but they are good solid tractors for the money. What did the crate tractor cost, if you don't mind me asking?

pasturesnew · May 30, 2005

Hi Bill,

Have multi, will try.

Crate supplied by Jinma UK for GBP 2950 plus tax, total equiv to about USD 6300 at present forex rate. Shipping to SW France cost extra USD 1200. Still a lot cheaper than buying in France, where Jinma is still virtually unknown - I was quoted USD 10,000 as a special offer for 2 cyl 204.

Agree it seems good value for money. Equivalent Kubota etc would cost much more than we could justify spending and I don't need hydrostatic etc. Planned use is mostly round stable yard but do need 4x4 and ROP for odd jobs on our clay slopes.

Thanks again for your kind help.
ACM

greg_g · May 30, 2005

( The system fuse was 30A and green. So was the replacement and the one after that .... they just keep blowing if I try to start with pre-heat. )

Either a dead short in the glow plug circuit, or a bad ignition switch - neither an uncommon problem. Glow plug resistance is tricky to measure, best done after being removed/cleaned/tested at room temp. More likely a wiring short or a bad wafer in the switch. See attachment for my Jinma switch mod.

When struts go bad, the problem is usually the opposite of yours - in that they leak down almost immediately. Your problem sounds more like the rod is bent, or that the hood end bracket is out of alignment. Either can make it extremely difficult to compress.

//greg//

JINMA224XR · May 30, 2005

Most of the plugs you mentioned are fitted with shake-proof steel washers, not copper or rubber, so I assumed they were mounting bolts

Another one for you: There is a gas spring fitted to hold the hood open. Problem is it won't close - if I press hard, the fibreglass just bends - and I guess it is too strong for the light body. For now, just using it as a prop.


Hey ACM,

On my 224, the front drive drain plugs are very small, about 7mm square headed threaded plugs, and located on the lower left and right steering struts, and on the right side of the center, looking at tractor from the rear.

I think Bill has a very good idea about isolating the Glow Plug circuit. I also did that, before I figured out that they had a 10amp, where a 30amp fuse should be. On my y380t engine- there is a thin flat metal bar that connects the glow plugs. There is also an insulating washer on each glow plug, that prevents, shorting the circuit to the chassis. One of the very small insulating washers may be missing or all 3 may be missing, which would short the circuit and blow the fuse.

Also Greg, may have it pegged as a bad ignition switch. But I would check out the connections at the glow plugs to make sure that all is well there first.

You asked if you might have the ignition switch wired wrong, That is also a possibility, but Someone else will have to help you with that one.

Oh by the way, I got mine allready assembled, and there was a couple of wires under the hood that wasn't hooked up to anything. I don't know exactly what they are for, but it might have something to do with the upgrade to the new headlight circuit, that eliminates the low beam, but just a guess, or it might be to the horn on the steering wheel, which is not connected on my 224, still just a guess.

Be sure to check that your creeper gears are getting oil, if you have a creeper gear box.

The drain plugs on the transfer/4wd gear box, have flat sealing washer as well as the Transmission drain plugs in line with the rear axle, on my 224, I have 2 drain plugs for the transmission on each side of center, at the rear axle.

There may be an adjustment screw for your Spring Strut on the hood. If not I would take the strut off and try to make sure that the plunger is going all the way in. If the plunger is going all the way in, then you may have to relocate a bracket maybe, or just leave it off and rig up a straight rod support, as my Nissan Truck has, to keep the hood propped up.

I hope that you get good use out of your tractor, as I don't know how I would make it without mine. As my current situation, is just me and my tractor to get the job done. Mine has been a lifesaver for me. I know that mine is just a little 224, but it has been doing quiet a bit of work for me.

Did you get the Spring Seat with your Tractor?

Get Your Tractors Running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

pasturesnew · May 30, 2005

Hi Dick, Joe, Greg & Bill,

Thank you, gentlemen, for all you kind help.

Re. the 30A fuse, I'm afraid it is what I always hate most - the intermittent fault /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Since my last post I must have heated the plugs and started up 10 times with no problems at all! Guess it will wait until cold weather comes before playing up again ....

Got the gas ram working after a few gentle passes through the hydraulic press. Also hood bracket was slightly out of alignment. Still stiff, but now closes.

Re. your questions: no spring seat, no shuttle box. Does have creeper but have not yet been able to shift it out of H (as supplied). Seems very stiff - may have to take the top off and check. Other gears, PTO, 4WD, diff lock seem to work OK.

Hydraulics a bit sluggish compared to my old Kubota KH36 minidigger, perhaps because only AWE 46 available locally - will search for 32 tomorrow. I plan another full fluids change after a few hours running in, so it is no extra trouble.

I too have some 'spare' wires - orange, white and red/white (not numbered). Perhaps steering wheel horn push? Don't think they have anything to do with the lack of dipped headlights - I find that both the outer and inner pairs of front lights are wired to the single position 'main beam' switch, so I guess dipped is no longer available. May have to make some alterations.

Any ideas on 'generic' paint shades (red, grey) to touch up the minor shipping damage?

Many thanks to you all.
ACM

JINMA224XR · May 30, 2005

Does have creeper but have not yet been able to shift it out of H (as supplied). Seems very stiff - may have to take the top off and check. 

Hey ACM,

That's a good excuse to take the cover off to make sure that you have oil in the creeper gear box. Mine didn't have very much at all, but I didn't know enough, to check it, until I had many hours of hard use. It never dawned on me that the creeper gear box wasn't getting oil, but I didn't have any trouble shifting from High to Low position.

I would caution against trying to put too much pressure on the Gear Changer for the Creeper Gears, as it might bend the Shifter Paul. I very rarely use the Low side of the Creeper Gear Box, but I can see that it would come in handy for certain kinds if jobs that need a really low tractor motion speed.

I would try to get another gasket before removing top, but if you are very very careful, you might be able to remove the top and reuse the old gasket, or at least until you get a new one. I don't like to use gasket maker, Especially the tube type/form a gasket, but that is also an option. The best alternative that I have heard of is using old inner tube to make a reusable gasket. That idea came from JohnS. He has a website that you might find really useful, for troubleshooting a Jinma tractor and has many useful Maintenance procedures with really nice pictures.

If you get the chance to upgrade to the OEM Spring Seat, at a good price, I think that you might like it. The OEM Spring Seat is a good quality seat and the adjustment for body weight helps to really smooth out the jolts. I knew that I wanted one, when I ordered my tractor, but was a little bit worried if it would help very much. After 125 hours on my 224, I would not want to get on another tractor without a Spring Seat now.

One of the things that I would like to put on my tractor is some rear view mirrors, so that i don't have to be twisting around to see exactly where I am going all of the time.

An intermitent problem with the 30a fuse, might be a little bit troublesome to track down. I'm leaning a little bit toward the ignition switch now. I have heard that some of the ignition switches were still supplying current to the Glow Plugs after the Starter is engaged, and that might be blowing the 30a fuse. Still just another guess.

There is also another Tractor Forum Site that you might find interesting to browse Through, "NYTO Forum" Site.

All these sites have a wealth of troubleshooting ideas and are interesting to read about how to keep your tractor Healthy.

Which part of our Small Planet do you reside? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Get your Tractors Running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Harrygoodwrench · May 30, 2005

Have to concur with all that was said above. The mysterious fuse blowing at times but now okay bugs me. Could be a bad ignition switch, a wire on the affected circuit was touching ground and you inadvertatly moved it, a bad glow plug that finally went open circuit, too many possibilities.
Creeper hard to shift may a bind in lever. Don't force, pull cover and take a look see. Gears are square cut teeth so stiff shift is expected (shift from a stop only please). Creeper cover comes off easy and gasket usually comes off intact. I resused mine. If not use a gasket in a tube with moderation.
Drains, trans/creeper/transfer case have 4 drains.
front diff 3
hydraulics 1.
Check Johns tractor for more info.
http://www.johnstractor.homestead.com/

Affordable · May 30, 2005

Since most of the other questions have been answered, I will try the hood shock.I have seen several crate tractors that the assembiler did not install the L- shaped angle iron brackets that support the hood and that the pressure from the hood shock has cracked the fiberglass,did you install these 2- brackets they have 3-slots in one end that the hood hinge bolts go thru ???????and the other side bolts to a rectanglar angle iron frame that the hood shock is on.

Tommy
Affordable

pasturesnew · May 31, 2005

Hi Joe,

Thanks again for your kind help and information.

I've checked out the sites you suggested - very useful.

Hoping to get time to take the creeper cover off today, so will see what is what. (And check that it still starts /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif).

I'm from south coast UK (New Forest, near Southampton) but recently relocated to France, about 1 hour drive SW of Toulouse. More space, cheaper land, less urbanisation, better climate .... but fewer tractor parts!

have a good day!
ACM

pasturesnew · May 31, 2005

Thanks Harry.

I now suspect the ignition switch. Have Ford ready as spare.
Hope to check creeper today.
best regards
ACM

pasturesnew · May 31, 2005

Hi Tommy,

Many thanks for hitting this problem.
Angle brackets? What angle brackets? None such in my pack /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Telephoned the UK dealer - he is shipping them today. So I guess you got it in one!
have a good day
ACM

Hagar · May 31, 2005

My fuse does that sometimes when I preheat. I think I have noticed that the headlamps are on at those times. I bump the swithes with my knee easily. I haven't confirmed that the lights and preheat at the same time is the culprit as I have only done it twice.

pasturesnew · May 31, 2005

Hi All,

Checked creeper - plenty of oil but H/L select needed freeing up - guess it got stiff thru lack of use since assembly.

So, all is now working /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Thanks to all you kind gentlemen, a fairly simple and enjoyable assembly. Should also mention that Jinma UK were at the phone today (yesterday was holiday in UK) and seemed both knowledgeable and helpful. Hope they (and you guys!) stick with me if there are problems during run-in.

Again, many thanks to you all. Hope I get a chance to reciprocate.