New Jinma

[RonMar]

Well my new 284/FEL and PH Auger were delivered today(I pick up a new 5' Rankin BH tomorrow). I installed the sunshade, went over the machine looking at hardware and checked all the fluids. The injector pump was 1 OZ low but everything else was OK, even the creeper box was up to the proper level. All systems appeared to contain what looked like 30wt. It did however look to be in pretty good condition judging by the samples I sucked out of each system and what I saw in the creeper box.

I drove it around the yard to run it through all the gears and run the PTO unloaded and discovered my first issue. The "ON" position on the ignition switch was intermittent and the instrunment panel would occasionally shut down. Cycling the switch OFF then back on would usually restore normal operation The lowest resistance I measured across those contacts was 400 ohms so I jumpered that switch contact to confirm the problem and finish my test drive. the electrics worked fine after that.

I also noticed a cyclic noise(thump) coming from the gearbox. It appeared to get louder/could feel it more as the tractor warmed up and I suspect it is coming from the input shaft as it was there in neutral, all gears and both high/low ranges but would dissappear when the clutch is depressed. I will investigate this further and try and find an exact location with a stethescope when I flush the gearbox and change out the fluids tomorrow.

 

[greg_g]

The switches Jinma uses are generally unreliable. All of mine failed and were replaced with aftermarket switches within the 1st year of use. Here are instructions how to substitute a Ford (diesel) switch for the Jinma. Doing so gives you the additional advantage of continued voltage to the glow plugs while the starter solenoid is engaged.

Don't want to be an alarmist, but I had an ominous noise from the transmission housing on a JM254 as well. It too, went away when I kicked in the clutch. I complained about it the day I picked the tractor up from the dealer. He said "It's under warranty. Bring it back if it breaks". It did, and I did. Three times. They finally ended up replacing the entire clutch pack. Others have reported finding clutch plates installed backwards. Take my word for it, that's something you should really get checked out - sooner rather than later.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

Thanks for the switch info Greg, I read about that mod a few weeks ago but I forgot where I found it.

I Drained the tranny/transfer/creeper tonight and found the fluid, although darker than usual, to be of reasonable quality with only a little suspended brass and steel that I would expect from a new gearbox breaking in. It will get a Kerosene flush and new 80W90 tomorrow when I have time to run it around a bit.

I did some research on the noise and while the oil was out I removed both the creeper topcover and main gearbox/shifter cover. The good news is that all the gear teeth are intact. What is happening is as the secondary(main drive) clutch engages, the driven shafts and gears spool up quietly in the gearbox and creeper. The noise starts as the last bit of pedal is let out. What I believe is happening is the secondary clutch disc is not sliding freely on the main input shaft splines. As I let the last bit of clutch out, and the pressure plate squeezes the disk, the main shaft is being pulled forward very slightly(I can just see a little bit of movement). This is bringing some of the spinning drive gears into close proximity to other teeth or the case. Add in a little bit of gear wobble and you have a cyclic noise. I don't think this is too serious and will eventually wear in. I am going to remove the FEL brackets tomorrow and inspect the clutch and check adjustments though.