New Owner/No Traction

[ccdck20hst]

A good basic reference book is "Operating Techniques for the Tractor-Loader-Backhoe" by Gary J. Ober. I got my copy from Equipment Training Resources (HEAVY EQUIPMENT TRAINING MATERIALS: Equipment Training Resources - Backhoes, Loaders, Excavators, Trenchers, Hydraulics Training Books & Videos.) Much of the book (soft cover 297 pages, many diagrams and photos) deals with safety and basic know how. It is about full size backhoes but I found it handy for understanding concepts such as keeping the center of gravity low when using the loader on my little CK20HSTTLB. When using your loader as stated use the "four wheel drive" engagement lever (best not to use this feature on pavement) and drive into the material pile with a touch of speed and curl the bucket a little before your stop to scoop up your load. I found working on gravel piles and then snow piles gave great practice. The CK20 is a great tractor and I have gotten good use from mine. Enjoy and tractor on!!

 

[SPYDERLK]

It seem's the fronts are alternating. There's a black lever below the left foot that I believe is to lock all four, I step on it w/left heel but not sure if it's engaging or not.

From what you fellows are telling me I need more ballast in the rear. Now to tell the Mrs. I have to buy a finish mower for added weight.

More weight at the rear is good. For times when youre a little light back there you can still get pretty fair push by lifting on the load you are scooping. -- When the bucket penetrates a bit and stalls progress pause the push and lift a little. This transfers some of the weight in the bucket to the front wheels and gives them traction. Then, push a little more, lift, push. Youll see the effect. Actually pushing while lifting has a tendency to oppose the lift and foil the benefit. When you get a load using this technique be sure to keep in mind that you are probably very light in the back cuz you got that good load by cheating a little.
larry

 

[VictorW]

Lifting will help the front tires dig in but I try not to do that much. The front axle is no where near as strong as the rear and I don't want to be replacing the gears or other parts. If I'm going to be doing anything but light fel loads or very easy digging such as lose sand or gravel, I have an implement or the bh attached for ballast.

 

[gladehound]

I don't have a CK20 but an LB1914 which is it's predicessor and is almost exactly the same size and weight. My LB1914 is a digging machine and I excavated for our driveway and our barn with it using only the bucket. The CK20 should be able to do the same.

HERE IS THE SECRETE - WEIGHT, WEIGHT, WEIGHT!!!!!

I have 400 pounds of fill in my tires, a 700 pound weight on the rear and a 300 pound FOPS. So 1400 extra pounds.

SECRETE # 2 - TIRE PRESURE!!!

I run my rears at 8 psi and my fronts at 18 psi. 8 psi on the rear with all that weight on the rear and the diff lock engaged and you practically don't need 4wd.

Glad to see you have the tooth bar, makes a huged difference.

FRONT AXLE CONCERNS

If the CK20 front axle is as strong as the on on the lb1914 I would have no concerns. I once was traveling at speed with a bucket of gravel and dropped the front into a ditch stopping the tractor abruptly and lifting the rear until I was balanced on the front axle and wasn't sure if it would come back down on the rear or go over the front (It came back to the rear). I thought I must have broke the front axle. NOPE. NO DAMAGE! that was several hundreds of hours ago. But a big weight on the rear will actually lighten the front and help lower the stress on it.

That's my 2 cents.

 

[Gil Case]

I think the point is using 4 wheel drive, driving into a pile, lifting the rear end so that they are spinning and the fronts are still stuck due to the weight in the bucket.
That will put all the torque on the front axles and has been known to break axles. That has happened to a friend who had an old Benye (Rhino clone).
You are all right, ballast on the rear is your friend.

 

[gladehound]

ahhh... I see your point. You're worried about the axle shaft / gears not the axle casting. Again, enough weight BEHIND the rear axle (so tire fill doesn't count) and you'll have no worries.

 

[Oliver 770]

I thought having a 4wd you dont need rear ballast. If you have weight thats great . Now 2wd tractors need ballast.

 

[k0ua]

I thought having a 4wd you dont need rear ballast. If you have weight thats great . Now 2wd tractors need ballast.

Um wrong.. 4wd need ballast too. You need to keep the rears firmly anchored to the ground. Ballast is the way to do it. Some dealers will not send a tractor out without a ballast box.. but you cannot make a guy use it. A new bare tractor, (no loaded tires or ballast on the 3pt) is not only nearly useless but is actually scarey for loader work. Expecially if operated on any kind of slope. Just for fun, ( or to prove it to myself) when I took deliver of my new tractor last summer, the first thing I did was go to my gravel pile and scoop up a big load, or attempted to.. with all the wheel spin, and then lifted it with about 3/4 of a bucket full of 0-3/4 inch gravel, and the thing nearly turned over by lifting one wheel, just because I am on a slight slope at the front of the pile. New tractor owners with a "bare tractor" do not understand their danger, nor the full capabilitys of their tractor if they will just put the proper ballast on it. I built a ballast barrel 750 lbs. and loaded the tires with fluid ASAP. Now my tractor is much safer, and has much more capability.

James K0UA

 

[SPYDERLK]

It seems 2wd tractors usually are made a little longer than a 4wd of given size. This makes the 4wd a little more front tippy than 2wd in loader use. Of course the 2wd becomes quickly worthless as the rears unload. The 4wd can continue to work tho -- and can become quite dangerous as the rear lightens.
larry

 

[wade simpson]

I have a ck 20 s. The lever with the black handle is to select 4/2wd. Up is 2wd. Is that lever moving up on its own? Mine did that for a while, I wouldn't notice until I needed traction. I wouldn't step on that handle. Mine shifts easily, although sometimes I have to get the gears in synch.

The diff lock is just to the right of that lever. It is a pedal shaped lever close to the floor of the tractor. Use that only moving in a straight line and only when a rear tire is slowly spinning. I always reduce RPMs until both tires are spinning.I only use it to get unstuck. There is only a small pin that you are levering into a hole so you usually have to wait for the hole to come into alignment with the hole then it should slip in, then both rears will turn together. Be gentle when stepping on the lever, mine requires very little effort to engage.

I find it odd that the tractor will not move. at least some, into the pile before breaking the tires loose. Mine, generally, will move into almost any pile until the bucket is filled or I touch something solid before breaking traction.

Lastly ensure that your front tires are actually spinning. I broke the shaft in one of my bevel gears (front wheel drive gears) in the fall. It took me a while to figure out why I couldn't get good traction. The effect was very similar to what you're describing.