MEMEMEME
Member
Hello-
Lurked here and soaked up a lot on info already-thanks to all you guys who unselfishly share your experience and expertise with us noobs.
Bought this beast last month knowing there was deferred maintenance to be done. So far have given the old gal a pretty good pressure washing, changed tranny oil and filter, changed engine oil and filter, replaced all the suction hoses, cleaned the screen at the bottom of the hydraulic filter well, drained the rear end [had only ~ 1 gallon of oil!], adjusted the brakes, replaced both brake pedal springs, greased every zerk I can find [except for the 3 that are frozen or missing], cleaned the grounds so the lights work again, changed the air filter [funny, it starts more easily now!], straightened out the backhoe control rod so the controls work smoothly again and probably a few other chores that slip my mind just now.
Discovered why the rear end was so low on oil when there didn't seem to be any leakage at the axle seals-the brake rod seals drip steadily when you add more than 4 gallons of fluid...new seals arriving tomorrow, along with a tachometer cable and a new hydraulic reservoir filter.
When I dug with it after purchase all cylinders held with minor leakdown of the boom overnight and minor drips from boom\stick\crowd but it just didn't seem to have as much power as I was expecting from the specs. It would also sometimes fail to rev when pushing into a dirt pile and getting a full bucket-shift into reverse and it would rev once again. Haven't dug with it again since changing the air filter as I got involved with replacing the suction hoses and messing with the brakes but sure starts more easily. Still wants a sniff of ether when temp is 50. Hoping it doesn't want a rebuilt IP but very little black smoke seen thus far. No clue how long injectors are good, any thoughts?
Hourmeter died at 2800+, obviously it has more than that but all pins/bushings surprisingly tight except for the hoe bucket.
Anyhow, I have zero clue where to screw in a gauge to check the pressure in the hydro system. Found a couple of big rubber chunks in the screen just above the pump [pretty certain they came from the 2 sections of suction hose joining the reservoirs in the loader frame].
Also, in the front compartment where the hydro pump is located there is some sort of mystery hydraulic component on the very bottom right [as seen from operator seat]. 2 small hydro hoses appear to run from the PS pump on the L side of engine to it. Anyone know what the heck it is?
Also noticed that the thrust bearing on the R front wheel spindle is pancaked, one on order. Anything special about replacing this?
Received a copy from seller of the I&T shop manual covering 2000/3000/4000/4500 models prior to '75 but it seems awfully light on 4500 info and doesn't address most of the issues and questions I have thus far.
Oh, yeah-the oil pressure goes to 80 immediately, this doesn't seem normal to me. Gauge is my primary suspect, any thoughts?
Sorry for the long post-I'll try to cut them down in the future!
Lurked here and soaked up a lot on info already-thanks to all you guys who unselfishly share your experience and expertise with us noobs.
Bought this beast last month knowing there was deferred maintenance to be done. So far have given the old gal a pretty good pressure washing, changed tranny oil and filter, changed engine oil and filter, replaced all the suction hoses, cleaned the screen at the bottom of the hydraulic filter well, drained the rear end [had only ~ 1 gallon of oil!], adjusted the brakes, replaced both brake pedal springs, greased every zerk I can find [except for the 3 that are frozen or missing], cleaned the grounds so the lights work again, changed the air filter [funny, it starts more easily now!], straightened out the backhoe control rod so the controls work smoothly again and probably a few other chores that slip my mind just now.
Discovered why the rear end was so low on oil when there didn't seem to be any leakage at the axle seals-the brake rod seals drip steadily when you add more than 4 gallons of fluid...new seals arriving tomorrow, along with a tachometer cable and a new hydraulic reservoir filter.
When I dug with it after purchase all cylinders held with minor leakdown of the boom overnight and minor drips from boom\stick\crowd but it just didn't seem to have as much power as I was expecting from the specs. It would also sometimes fail to rev when pushing into a dirt pile and getting a full bucket-shift into reverse and it would rev once again. Haven't dug with it again since changing the air filter as I got involved with replacing the suction hoses and messing with the brakes but sure starts more easily. Still wants a sniff of ether when temp is 50. Hoping it doesn't want a rebuilt IP but very little black smoke seen thus far. No clue how long injectors are good, any thoughts?
Hourmeter died at 2800+, obviously it has more than that but all pins/bushings surprisingly tight except for the hoe bucket.
Anyhow, I have zero clue where to screw in a gauge to check the pressure in the hydro system. Found a couple of big rubber chunks in the screen just above the pump [pretty certain they came from the 2 sections of suction hose joining the reservoirs in the loader frame].
Also, in the front compartment where the hydro pump is located there is some sort of mystery hydraulic component on the very bottom right [as seen from operator seat]. 2 small hydro hoses appear to run from the PS pump on the L side of engine to it. Anyone know what the heck it is?
Also noticed that the thrust bearing on the R front wheel spindle is pancaked, one on order. Anything special about replacing this?
Received a copy from seller of the I&T shop manual covering 2000/3000/4000/4500 models prior to '75 but it seems awfully light on 4500 info and doesn't address most of the issues and questions I have thus far.
Oh, yeah-the oil pressure goes to 80 immediately, this doesn't seem normal to me. Gauge is my primary suspect, any thoughts?
Sorry for the long post-I'll try to cut them down in the future!
