New Owner of YM1702

[astro]

I finally pulled the trigger and bought a YM1702. Runs good but hard to start, battery to drained to start tractor. Electrical idiot light comes on as tractor idle speed increases, fully bright at approx. 2000rpm. Headlights an blinkers still work.

I am thinking it may be a bad voltage regulator or alternator. When the tractor is running with a voltmeter on the battery, no change in voltage when accelerating. Battery reads about 11.9 volts. Disconnected the alternator and put the voltmeter in the green wires again no change in voltage as idle speed increases.

Tractor starts right up when jumped with my truck. I am wondering if the battery does not have enough cold cranking amps to start tractor. Air temp has been in the 40's it not so cold to have starting problems.

The tractor came with a new volatge regulator but that does not necessarily mean its good. I am going to replace the voltage regulator and see what happens. I was told by a mechanic that works on forklifts that if the new voltage regulator works (fixes the problem) then that was the problem. But if the problem reappears then the alternator is shorting out and ruining the regulator, then the alternator and voltage regultor will both have to be replaced.

Does this sound logical to you experienced Yanmar owners? Also does anyone know where I can get an alternator for a YM1702 if it is needed?

Also have question regarding engine oil. I am planning to replace the oil with Shell Rotella 15w-40, is this acceptable? Agian this what the forklift mechanic told me they use this in their diesels year round.

What about the use of the oil additive Slick 50? I know a mechanic that uses this in all automobiles brand new and used, he swears by it for engine protection and longer life.

Other than the electrical problem, I am really impressed with this tractor.

Thanks

 

[KubotaBling]

slick 50 is nothing more than 70w engine oil.. if it sucks in the oil pump inlet cold u can kiss ur engine good bye..

 

[Bird]

I've known people who swear by Slick 50 and even by STP, and I don't have the technical knowledge to say they're wrong, but I do know that you couldn't pay me to put stuff like that in any of my engines. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[greg_g]

Check the wiring to the idiot light itself, it's acting exactly backwards. It should come on with the ignition, then go out as it's fed voltage once the engine revs come up.

If you've got a voltmeter, what is out output voltage from the alternator with the tractor at idle. If I recall 14-15V out should be about right. If you can check amps, I'd say look for around 40-45A

Doesn't your ThermoStart system work? I use it even in the summer, starting an engine that hasn't yet been run that day. A $50 Thermostart system saves a helluva lotta wear and tear on a $285 starter and a $70 battery.

15W40 is what I use in all my diesels, all year round. I wouldn't worry about a Slick 50 decision till you get some of the more basic wrinkles ironed out.

//greg//

 

[Suds]

I am not familiar with the 1702 but I had a 1500 and still have a YM1610D. Both of these tractors had altenators that looked bulletproof. If you unplug the altenators and measure the out put voltage, remember to switch your voltmeter to A C. volts.
I seem to recall that they put out near 45 vac at full throttle.
Investigate thouroughly before replacing any electronics as they are very expensive and they usually won't take returns.
Suds

 

[1danny]

You can check the thermostart by taking the intake hose off as you turn the switch key to the left and look in the intake, after a couple of seconds you should see the plug start to glow red. Hold the key to the left for about 10 - 15 seconds then start the engine.
Danny
Parker Equipment Co

 

[astro]

greg g you had metioned that the electrical light should come on with the iginition. The oil light comes on with the ignition then goes off when the engine starts running. It oil idiot light also comes on when the key is turned to the left.

Is the oil and electrical lights suppose to come on with the ignition?

Thanks

 

[greg_g]

Yup. At least on my YM240. Got three idiot lights; water temp, alternator, oil pressure. Water temp never comes on except in the even of overtemp. It's much harder to test, but it can be done. Alternator and Oil lights should come on as soon as you turn the key to ON. After starting - if oil pressure and voltage thresholds are met - both should extinguish.

That's why I said it sounds like your alternator idiot light is working backwards.

//greg//

 

[devoman1999]

Didnt he say that with engine running and a voltmeter hooked up he is only showing 11.9 volts. Wouldnt that indicate a non charging situation. I would check with the meter on the output of the alternator and see what it shows.

 

[greg_g]

Not necessarily. That reading is almost certainly influenced by battery voltage. Plus, the voltage regulator, starter switch, and starter solenoid are between the alternator and the battery; many places for a voltage drop to occur. Accurate alternator output can only be made AT the alternator, when it's isolated from the rest of the electrical system.

//greg//