new to diesel, tell me about stopping and starting.

[motownbrowne]

Like I mentioned in another thread, I just bought a Kubota mx4700 hst. I've never owned a diesel before, honestly if I could have bought a gas 4x4 tractor, I wouldn't own one now, but that wasn't an option. I'm sure I'll love it of course, but it'll take some getting used to. So... A couple of things I know from being around diesels in the past are to let them warm up as long as I have patience for, not to run them out of fuel, let them cool down if you have a turbo (not an issue here) and that they typically don't like to be turned off and on for short periods of time. So, if your tractor is diesel, is that something you keep in mind? I always liked not worrying about it with the 8ns. I don't anticipate needing to do this a lot, just want to hear some thoughts about the matter. Any other info for a new diesel owner would be great too.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Sounds like you already have all the basics down. Starting and stopping any engine after short periods of running causes lots of wear to the battery, starter and engine so it is best to just leave them idling if you are only going to stop for a couple of minutes. For my tractors, I will let them idle for longer periods (10+minutes) than a gasoline engine as it doesn't hurt them to idle for long periods and they burn so little fuel that it doesn't matter None of my tractors have a turbo so when stopping, I just slow them to an idle for a few seconds and cut the key off. If they have been under a heavy load, then they need to idle a bit to cool off the engine before stopping, but I don't have any thing to really load my engines that heavy and I always have to road them at least a couple of minutes from any worksite so that is the cool down for them. Once they enter the parking shed, it's idle while I shift everything to neutral, lower my implement and then turn off the key. For startup, it is low idle of around 1200 rpm for less than a minute, then raise up my implements, FEL etc, put in gear and idle out of the shed. When the red light goes out on the cold oil gauge, it is warm enough to operate, again, it is a few minutes of travel time to any worksite which is done at the 1200-1500 rpm and by then the engine temps are in the normal range so we go to work.
I rarely run either of my tractors at full RPM when working as it isn't needed to produce the HP I need. My B26 operates best at 2000 rpm and only sees max rpm when travelling on the road as it only does about 12 MPH max speed at WOT. My LS will do 25 MPH+ in high gear at WOT which is about all you want to do again only using WOT on the road with most times working speed is less than 2000 rpm. Even using the PTO, I don't rev the engine to 2250 (540 engine speed), I use the 3 speed PTO gear box, select 750 RPM and throttle back to about 1600 rpm which spins the PTO at the 540 speed. The engine has plenty of power at that speed to pull my 7 foot bushhog and I select the gear to give me a comfortable travel speed.

I would never buy a gas engine tractor due to the fuels of today going stale so quickly. I would love to have a diesel lawnmower if the costs weren't so extravagant. Right now I am searching for a diesel powered standby generator also

 

[ishiboo]

The newer diesels provide a bunch of nice low-end torque which is great for fuel economy and performance when pulling stuff, driving the PTO, etc. Even if gas were an option, diesel was the right one.

This is basically true for all engines… they like to be up to operating temperature before you put them to work. So do the transmissions. People like to think they drive big 12 liter diesels from 30 years ago and idle them all the time, but you are better off shutting down the tractor and restarting it if it will be idling for any period of time. Long periods of idling are not only worse for the engine than shutting them down but wear them out faster (obviously) and wastes fuel. Turning it off/restarting is a bit harder on your starter (which is $100 to rebuild) but otherwise better and safer.

I think you're a bit too concerned about diesels being "sensitive" which they are not. Like any engine, treat them well and they'll do the same to you in return.

 

[KennyV]

Change your fluids & filters as needed... Use synthetic Diesel rated Engine oil, Keep your fuel clean & free of water. You will have NO problems running a diesel engine vs gasoline.
Whenever you can get a Diesel engine instead of a gasoline... Always pay a little extra for the diesel. KennyV

 

[motownbrowne]

Sounds good. I know the Kubota will probably be a little more sensitive than the Ford overall, that 8n is bulletproof. Kubota has a lot more wires and sensors and switches, but hopefully it will last a long time while being many times more capable, as well as safer and easier to use.

 

[BeezFun]

...not to run them out of fuel,

My manual lists this as the procedure to follow if it runs out of fuel:
1. Fill tank
2. Turn key

I know some diesels are not self priming, if yours is one you might have to bleed something to get it started. I'd say the worst thing about running out of fuel applies to gas or diesel- it's not good for the fuel pump because the fuel is what's cooling it.

 

[/pine]

learn about your glow plugs and the monitor...(usually a dash light)...

When it's cold make sure the key energizes the glow plugs for a bit before engaging the starter...

 

[art]

The most efficient engine is one that runs at a constant temperature of 180 to 200 as all the metal is expanded the same. To use a cold engine and put it full load the metal has not expanded and the wear will be different. To allow a diesel to idle for extended periods of time is not good either. I find that when I go out to warm up the tractor that I'm currently using for snow removal or any diesel they will not warm up much past the 100 degree mark which is also not good for wear.
We normally run the engine if just setting for warm up at about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle. The engine will warm up at that RPM.

The diesels you see or hear about that go a million miles or in tractors that go ten thousand hours plus are ones that do run constant for many long hour days. They are not an hour here and an hour there.

 

[k0ua]

As for running out of fuel, your Kubota is easy to get going again, there is a round knob valve just above the injection pump to open up, then crank and start engine, let it run for 30 seconds then close this knob. You will enjoy the diesel for many reasons, and will never think of a gas tractor as superior again. Just remember to "glow" when the temp gets down to about 45 or so, and increase the glow time when it gets colder. It is all pretty easy and intuitive. You will truly enjoy the heck out of the new tractor.

James K0UA

 

[AStanton]

Don't forget to make sure you use winterized diesel. I add Power Service from Napa to my diesel. I don't trust the blend at the pump.

 

[TexasBoy]

Ive had gas tractors and they dont come close to the diesels. No plugs and ignition stuff to dink with, lots less over heating, no old stale gas problems, needle & seat issues and flooding, on & on. You will love the diesel for sure, enjoy your nice machine.

 

[motownbrowne]

Yeah, glow plugs and the block heater are pretty important around here. I was very impressed when we test drove the Kubotas the other day, temp was about -5F and the both Kubotas I started fired right up after cycling the glow plugs twice. I must say that I run the 8n out of fuel more than I should, but the fuel gauge on the Kubota should remedy that problem does anyone know where to find the torque rating for these motors? I was very surprised when comparing the 8n to a John Deere 4600 that I looked at briefly. They basically made the same amount of torque (around 90ftlbs), and the sixty year old gas motor did it at 200 less rpm. I'm sure they are totally different to operate, just a strange observation.

 

[dstig1]

Howdy neighbor! I'm near RF so I know the area quite well. You will have a great time with that tractor. The regional Kubota rep happens to live in Hudson too, so if you really get stuck with a dealer, you can track him down. I've had decent luck with Value Implement in Baldwin, and less so with Niebur in Hastings, though not horrible. The rep is real good friends with Niebur, BTW/FWIW. I know all this as I bought my first tractor used from the rep himself (his personal unit)... After I sold the 3130 to upgrade, in the end I bought my new 5240 from Barlow's in Kentucky as they were several thousand lower than local. That hasn't been pain free as they screwed up a few things with the rear remotes, but it was probably worth it in the end for the savings. Just my experience, FWIW.

PM me if you want to chat offline further.

 

[motownbrowne]

Hey Dave, thanks for getting in touch. Value implement in Baldwin is where we bought the MX. Salesman actually graduated from high school with my dad, which was cool. He was really a nice guy to deal with, knew the answers to 90% of my questions, but wasn't afraid to say "I don't know, let me look that up and get right back to you" which I would prefer 100% over the wrong answer. Actually the kioti dealer is supposedly still supposed to call me back with some answers, but he said that before and it didn't happen, so I doubt he'll make the call. Anyway, can't wait for the new machine. I've used the 8n a couple of times since we shook hands on the Kubota, and it seems older than ever.