New to me mt160

[Mowens]

So I just purchased this mt160. When I test drove it everything seemed good. I knew it needed a battery and ignition switch.

He supplied an ignition switch but it only has 4 poles not 5. Can I use this switch? I think I would only lose my glow plug but in the deep south winter is a joke. If I went that way can anyone tell me the correlation of connections. The only one that has a label that makes sense is the BAT all the rest from the original are G, G1, G2, IT

The other thing that seems off is the high low gear shifter is stuck in high or is there a trick to shift it.

I found a manual online it's moderately helpful.

Thanks,

Matt

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

You should be stopped, in neutral when you shift high and low.

Also your clutch is in OR out, you do not feather it unless you want the fun of splitting your tractor to replace the disc.

I had the same ignition issue, but due to the key being lost and not being able to get the proper switch. I used the diagrams below to make the conversion, the first one is the one from the Mitsubishi service manual.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Whoops, the last three were for my sons Z50A, not the tractor.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

I am trying to recall, I think the one I used temporarily was a Kubota one. ...

And I had to manually short to heat the glow plugs. It was in the middle of a collapsing shed.

 

[Mowens]

Thanks for the info.

Can I use a switch for the glow plugs? R/B and B/W only or do I need to add power?

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Thanks for the info.

Can I use a switch for the glow plugs? R/B and B/W only or do I need to add power?

They need to be connected to power momentarily, if you note the conversion image: power is supplied on TS (glow), and on the start position.

When the tractor is running there is no power to these.

Not sure if this will zoom up enough, but I cant extract the page easily on my phone.

 

[Mowens]

This is what I got.



Based on the Diagram
Old Switch = New Switch
Center B = Bat ( Yellow, Black)
Unmarked = ST ( B/Y, R/W, and I think they added a RED extra hot line direct to starter. ) There is a B/W line and red line at the starter solenoid. -- I think this overall is wrong in some way. Like Maybe they should be on ST and IGN.
IG = ACC ( Red, Red, Black, Green, Green)
G1 = N/A (B/W)
G2 = N/A (B/R)
= IGN on new switch unused

I thought the stuff on IG would go to IGN but it seems to be the lights and things.

---

Could I add the 1 line (B/W) to a switch that has 12 v power? Seems like they are flips of the same circuit one side bypasses the glow indicator. So couldn't I attach the R/B direct side to the ST Circuit?

---

Appreciate all the help. If this isn't worth the effort it might be feasible to find a replacement OEM switch, as opposed to this universal.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

ACC is usually accessories, you would not want to attach your glows to this as it is always on. It's for lights and stuff.

Maybe this is a better image for yours:

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Ideally you would pick up a proper diesel ignition switch.

The glow plugs have two momentary signals: the 5-10 seconds on the glow position and the 1-2 seconds to aid the start position.

The rest of the time you want your glow plugs off. There is no reason to heat after the engine has started.

 

[Mowens]

Gotcha

Here is what he says it is. Is there a better option?


It looks like I could add the B/R to the IGN pin and that would give me the temp start for the Glow Plugs during the Start Cycle .

Thanks again you're an amazing help.