new to tracters! need pto advice

[Coemgan]

I think i have a 1 1/8" spine pto on my 1942 ford.
All accessories i am looking at say 1 3/8, Do i need to buy a conversion to 1 3/8? if so, what good is the 1 1/8 ? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Up untill the mid 50's ford pto's were 1 1/8 6 spline. as you know.. the standard now is 1 3/8 6 spline.

You have a couple options. Add an over running coupler.. they make them with the female side as 1 1/8 and the male side as 1 3/8. If you mow with a rotary mower. .the ORC is a good idea anyway.. tsc has thes for about 50 bucks.

There is a lso a 4 inch sleave that slides over the smaller 1 1/8 pto stub, making it look exactly like a 1 3/8 stub. This is about 15 bucks, and works fine in all but the most extreme cases. If you constantly hit lots of rocks or have other shock loads on your pto.. like a pto auger.. this may be iffy. Mowing should be fine.. but again.. use the orc method.. it helps keep the rotary inertia away from the wheels .

next option is a 5$ small sleave that bushes the pto up to 1 3/8 but leaves it short.. it is a thin sheet metal job.. only good for real small loads.. like maybee a seed spreader or something like that.. or a water pump for a small spray wagon.. deffinately not for anything needing any hp.

Last option is about 99$.. and that is to change the pto shaft. Don't get alarmed... this is easier than changing a tire.

Park the tractor nose down in the ditch in front of your house, slide the pto lever on the left side to disengage it.. remove the 4 bolts holding the pto shaft and bearing carrier in... the old shaft slides out.. and your new shaft slides in.. all you need is the 30 cent pto gasket, as the new shaft comes with a new bearing and seal carrier. Just slap the 4 bolts and gasket on it ang torque down and go. Parking nose down makes the 5 gallons of tranny oil flow forward so you don't have oil gush out everywhere.

If the shaft has problems coming out.. usually it is just the bearing carrier stuck to the housing.. light taps and light prying help this. if on the other hand, the shaft comes out a few inches and then stops.. this may mean the shaft has been twisted slightly in its former life.. and now the splined end is hung int he pump. If ligt to moderat jigling won't remove it.. sometimes you have to slide it back in.. and then pull the side covers and use a torch or hacksay and cut the front of the shaft off.. then slide it out.. then drain the sump to clear the metal flakes / slag.. etc. If you are moderately lucky.. it will slide in and out. That said.. I'd still get an orc if you are going to do some mowing.

As a very last option.. if you only have one implement that uses the pto.. the 1 1/8 yoke is probably still available at TSC that can be pressed on to your pto shaft .... I wouldn't go that route.

I'v done alot of work on old fords.. if ya need any help let me know.

By the way.. if it is ford and 42.. that makes it a 2N.

Soundguy

 

[Cliff_Johns]

Soundguy,
I didn't ask the question, but I must say you have an amazing wealth of detailed knowledge. You present it well too, clear and concise. If I had an old tractor, I think I might start asking questions just to see what it would take to stump you.

Cliff

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif ( head beginning to swell.. )

My knowledge came via ownership. I've got an IH, a JD, and a buch of fords and a yanmar. I had to learn to be wrenchy and do the work, and find the parts and research the knowledge for them. I got lucky that this question was on a ford! That's my specialty. I;ve rebuitl a 46 ford 2n, a 52 ford 8n, and a 54 ford NAA, as well as maintainance on my ex- 1920 and my current 7610s.

I hit all the local tractor shows.. have a gazillion antique tractor books, manuals and mags in my den.. and read many antique tractor subs.

Had he been asking about say.. a zetor.. I couldn't have helped him /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Soundguy

 

[Coemgan]

thx, I am going to get a chipper/shredder first. I am clearing my house lot myself and have left myself quite a mess!

I have seen pto chippers for about $650 on ebay.

thanks again for the help!

 

[Soundguy]

If using a chipper first.. go ahead and either invest in the 15$ 1 1/8 to 1 3/8 big adapter sleave, or the orc of the same size.. heck.. get both.. there will be times when you don't want ( or need ) the orc in line.. and the adapter sleave will work fine.

Read me the sn on the side of the engine.. it will be on the left side.. right under the head.. kinda back from the oil canister.. will be a lightly hand stamped number.. not a cast number. all 9n and 2n sn's start with 9n.. all 8n sn's start with 8n. However all 9n / 2n / 8n engines use 'basically' the same block, and have the same tranny mount pattern.. so any of the 3 blocks will bolt up to any of the 3 trannies.. what this means is that along the line you may see a 1952 8n engine installed in a 1939 9n chassie. At that point.. you date the engine, and then rely on other details to date the tractor. Every couple of years a few things changed, enough for you to date it to a year or two.

a pic would be great too... I love old fords.

Soundguy