New to trailering

[jacobweaver32]

I want to trailer a MF 1533 with FEL & Backhoe (~4200lbs), the trailer is a 16ft car hauler w/ 15" wheels (1600lbs) w/ two 5k lb axels. The trailer is rated at 7k lbs load. It has 10" or 12" (can't remember which) trailer brakes. This will not be used for commerical use nor work for hire.

I want to pull it with a 2007 Sport Trac V8 4x4. The tow capacity of this truck is 6990lbs; max payload is 1350lbs (I believe this number is over the wheels) I am not sure what the hitch weight capacity is.

I know most will say get a REAL truck... but I dont need an full size truck for anything more then possibly pulling around my tractor once in a while. So please comment on whether this is a suitable setup... or what changes I should make.

Also, I am in Ohio and know nothing about owning or regestering a trailer for hauling. Am I thought I just had to get a license plate for it and I was good to go.... am I missing something obvious here? Do I need to insure the trailer as well?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Lynkage]

It seems to me that you will be right at capacity. You would also need to consider your weight and fuel as well as your tractor. Are your tires loaded?

Will you be going down any hills? I would say if you are going up and down hills (definitely not mountains) then I would not do it.

I am sure others will comment as well but these are JMO.

I would say a 1/2 ton truck would be better suited towards your situation.
Here in Colorado I license and insure my trailers.

But then there were those people towing their Air streams with their Caddys with HUGE mirrors too.

 

[jacobweaver32]

It seems to me that you will be right at capacity. You would also need to consider your weight and fuel as well as your tractor. Are your tires loaded?

Will you be going down any hills? I would say if you are going up and down hills (definitely not mountains) then I would not do it.

I am sure others will comment as well but these are JMO.

I would say a 1/2 ton truck would be better suited towards your situation.
Here in Colorado I license and insure my trailers.

But then there were those people towing their Air streams with their Caddys with HUGE mirrors too.

Tractor holds ~10 gallons of fuel (add 50lbs) Tires are not loaded. Although may add weights to them depending out how it performs...

I won't be doing any hilling, mostly flat around this part of Ohio (West of Youngstown).

I know a 1/2 ton would be best but the vehicle will be for my wife... and we are thinking about having a kid or two in the next couple of years... so a 4 door with great safety features is important to us.

thanks for your thoughts!

 

[George2615]

If your Sport Trac has a trailer hitch it should have the weight capacity listed on it and if it has a tow rating of 6990 it should have a hitch rated for at least that amount.

Your tractor (4200#) and trailer (1600#) total 5800# which leaves you an 1190# margin of safety. Just make sure you have at least a 7500# rated ball to tow it with and brakes on the trailer wired to a brake controller in the truck cab. I don't see a problem for ocassional towing this package.

I don't know about Ohio but in my state trailers need to be registered for the rated weight cap. (yours would be 7000#) then DMV issues a license plate. Trailer is covered by auto insurance when hooked to the tow vehicle. Your tractor is usually covered by homeowners insurance while on your property but may require additional insurance if off your property. Maybe an Ohio member can be more specific on regs. there. I hear some states don't required trailers to be registered but don't know if thats true or not.

 

[Jimbrown]

My Ford tow guide says that an Explorer needs a class III/IV receiver to pull anything over 3500. I would say you will be OK towing locally once in a while. Just be aware of how much weight you got back there and plan ahead. Most car hauler I have seen had surge brakes but if not you will need a brake controller. I have no idea about Ohio laws. Here in Az it would be one time liftime license for the trailer you tell the DOT how much you want to carry and they charge you for that amount.

 

[mikegt4]

I am in Ohio and know nothing about owning or regestering a trailer for hauling. Am I thought I just had to get a license plate for it and I was good to go.... am I missing something obvious here? Do I need to insure the trailer as well?

Thanks for any help!

Here in Ohio, for non-commercial use, you just get a plate and go. The plate is priced by the weight of the empty trailer, not it's capacity. You will need to have the trailer weighed and then take the "official certified" weight slip to the DMV. Needless to say, remove as much from the trailer as possible before weighing, ie, no chains, ramps, spare tire etc.

Fortunately, Ohio hasn't joined the "charge 'em and license by capacity" philosophy that other states have adopted for non-commercial vehicles.

It's always best to check with your insurance agent before you start towing just to be sure.

 

[Joe1]

IMO you should give some serious consideration to a weight distribution hitch which helps distribute the tongue weight of the trailer over both tow vehicle axles and some back to the trailer. It would greatly stabilize the rig from an up and down standpoint and also generally helps reduce or eliminate side to side sway. For good towing you need 10 - 12 % of the total trailer and cargo weight as tongue weight. With a 6,000 lb trailer weight you need a MINIMUM of 600 lbs to 720 lbs weight on the tongue, preferably closer to 800 lbs. - 850 lbs would be better. With that much weight that far behind the rear axle of a light duty truck you will likely get some hobby horse effect without a weight distribution hitch. They cost well under $500.00 for a good quality one such as an EZ Lift or Reese.

You will also need a good trailer brake controller installed on the truck unless the trailer has hydraulic surge brakes. I assume from your description you have brakes on all 4 wheels.

Since it sounds like you're a novice at this trailering thing you might want to get an experienced friend to help you sort this out and to take you on the road first with the empty then the loaded trailer.

An out of control trailer is one **** scary thing.

Good luck

 

[bigtiller]

A friend of mine loaded his sub-cut and loader onto the trailer and said it will be ok, I am only going a mile. In that mile he ended upside down in the ditch when something went wrong because of the way it was loaded on the trailer. If it is't safe don't drive it. The life you take may not be your own.

 

[KAB]

Take some time and read this http://www.fordvehicles.com/assets/pdf/towing/07RVsporttrac9-15.pdf

Double check the weights that you have listed. According to MF the shipping weight of just the tractor is ~3000# and you are quoting a total weight of 4200# (w/Loader and BH?) My Kioti CK20 weighs in around 4600# with the same equipment. Does the trailer actually weigh 1600#? The MSO for my 16' trailer says 1500# but based on numbers from hauling some gravel it is closer to 2000#. You still need to consider Tie downs (Chains and Binders), Weight Distributing Hitch (Required Per Ford), other equipment you may carry with you, and any weight in the vehicle in excess of 150#. (Minimum weight that most manufactures use for driver when figuring tow capacity).

There are plenty of 4dr 1/2 ton trucks out there that offer the same or better safety. Your biggest problem is getting out of your current vehicle without taking a major hit in depreciation.

Good Luck

Kurt

 

[deere755]

I like plenty of towing capacity. I was pretty well maxed out with our boat behind my 1/2 ton pickup for towing capacity and I hated it in the hills and wind. I was really working the engine and transmition over good. I felt as though I was not safe towing it. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a 3/4 ton and I have no regrets for doing so. When I would come down a hill and pick up speed if I got going to fast I could feel the back end of the truck start to sway. These were not big hills I live in Illinois.