KAB
Gold Member
KAB said:
Sorry, Wrong number in my head should have been 3600#.
Kurt
New to trailering
- Thread starter jacobweaver32
- Start date
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Sorry, Wrong number in my head should have been 3600#.
Kurt
LoneCowboy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2006
- Messages
- 1,212
I have a 1433, with FEL and some type of implement all the time on it. (almost exactly a 1533)
i have a 20' trailer (much nicer to move stuff around) bumper pull with 5200lb axles. (so it weighs more than your trailer)
A sport Trac is effectively an explorer.
there's no way i would pull this with an explorer.
No way.
1/2 ton truck/suburban/expedition minimum
i have a 20' trailer (much nicer to move stuff around) bumper pull with 5200lb axles. (so it weighs more than your trailer)
A sport Trac is effectively an explorer.
there's no way i would pull this with an explorer.
No way.
1/2 ton truck/suburban/expedition minimum
OP
jacobweaver32
Bronze Member
Wow... thanks everyone... posts are very helpful, infact I dont know where to start. So I'll just start rambling.
Obviously, safety is very important to me, and I would hate to have the feeling of the swaying on hills.
I think there are alot of variables here because I don't really know how much the tractor will weight with the FEL and BH. Once I find this out I will be better off... maybe I can contact the manufacturers of these implements and find out their weight.
As far as the sport trac goes... I would definately get the class III/IV tow package with the weight distribution hitch. I don't think the concern is so much whether the truck CAN do it.... I think its a matter of whether at can be done safely.
I found some numbers on the weight of the 2007 Sport Trac - curb weight 4,793lbs & a max payload of 1,350lbs & width is 73.7".
Numbers on a 2007 F-150 are - curb weight 4,663lbs & max payload of 1,940 & width of the truck is 78.9".
Got these from: 2007 Ford F-150 Specifications & Data at Automobile Magazine
What do you think of this?? To me the only concern is the width; which translates to me as load control. Other then that I don't see much of a issue here.
Again, I'm a noob so let me know if I'm not making any sense...... it is just things that I don't have experience in I tend to go with man'f specs as my guideline.
Thanks
Obviously, safety is very important to me, and I would hate to have the feeling of the swaying on hills.
I think there are alot of variables here because I don't really know how much the tractor will weight with the FEL and BH. Once I find this out I will be better off... maybe I can contact the manufacturers of these implements and find out their weight.
As far as the sport trac goes... I would definately get the class III/IV tow package with the weight distribution hitch. I don't think the concern is so much whether the truck CAN do it.... I think its a matter of whether at can be done safely.
I found some numbers on the weight of the 2007 Sport Trac - curb weight 4,793lbs & a max payload of 1,350lbs & width is 73.7".
Numbers on a 2007 F-150 are - curb weight 4,663lbs & max payload of 1,940 & width of the truck is 78.9".
Got these from: 2007 Ford F-150 Specifications & Data at Automobile Magazine
What do you think of this?? To me the only concern is the width; which translates to me as load control. Other then that I don't see much of a issue here.
Again, I'm a noob so let me know if I'm not making any sense...... it is just things that I don't have experience in I tend to go with man'f specs as my guideline.
Thanks
you've read the other posts. Most folks will tell you to get a larger truck. Once you start towing a load that is over the weight of the tow vehicle, the game starts to get serious. You will have a 5000# tow vehicle and a 7000# trailer load. Really, that's not all that bad. BUT, you have to maintain the trailer brakes. Absolutely, get the weight distributing hitch and an anti-sway for the trailer, so it won't be wagging the truck.
The trailer will probably have electric brakes. That's ok, but they are manually adjusted. That means 2x a season you have to jack up the trailer, crawl under it and manually tighten the star adjuster down on each wheel. Not a big deal, but it is so often forgotten it ain't funny. Once a season you have to take the wheel off, remove the hub and grease the bearings. Again, it's not that big of a deal, but it gets forgotten a lot. Usually, you remember when the hub catches fire after the bearings melt down. If you aren't comfortable doing that, have it done at a tire or alignment place in the SPRING before you tow.
You will need to carry an extra trailer tire (and hub and bearing set if you are smart/paranoid). Make sure the truck and trailer have GOOD tires. For some reason, you only find yourself in panic situations on rain slick roads.
You can also search for how to load the equipment. You want 15% of the load on the hitch. 7000# load is 900# on the hitch. Measure bumper drop without using the weight distribution hitch to determine how much weight you are carrying. (Mfg specs on spring rates should be known.)
As a novice tow-er, buy professional grade chain and ratcheting binders. Expect to spend $200 or a bit more. If you buy good stuff, it's a life time purchase. Junk is seasonal...
jb
The trailer will probably have electric brakes. That's ok, but they are manually adjusted. That means 2x a season you have to jack up the trailer, crawl under it and manually tighten the star adjuster down on each wheel. Not a big deal, but it is so often forgotten it ain't funny. Once a season you have to take the wheel off, remove the hub and grease the bearings. Again, it's not that big of a deal, but it gets forgotten a lot. Usually, you remember when the hub catches fire after the bearings melt down. If you aren't comfortable doing that, have it done at a tire or alignment place in the SPRING before you tow.
You will need to carry an extra trailer tire (and hub and bearing set if you are smart/paranoid). Make sure the truck and trailer have GOOD tires. For some reason, you only find yourself in panic situations on rain slick roads.
You can also search for how to load the equipment. You want 15% of the load on the hitch. 7000# load is 900# on the hitch. Measure bumper drop without using the weight distribution hitch to determine how much weight you are carrying. (Mfg specs on spring rates should be known.)
As a novice tow-er, buy professional grade chain and ratcheting binders. Expect to spend $200 or a bit more. If you buy good stuff, it's a life time purchase. Junk is seasonal...
jb
OP
jacobweaver32
Bronze Member
Thanks guys this is/was very enlighting.
Jake
Jake
Lynkage
Silver Member
jacobweaver32 said:
I think you are getting the Whole Picture. One other thing that is important is wheelbase. A longer tow vehicle will be more stable as well as width.
Everyone has given very good advice as you would expect on TBN.
Happy trailering.
Shane
