New tractor ;) and help! John deere 950

[Anomic]

So here is the picture...

I know the rules of internet and picture is required so there it is

I rode all day and really like it. Bushogged about 3 acres of 3-4' deep meadow/overgrown lawn and it did great even though the bushog is ancient.

Problem is the throttle "difts" lower as the i drive and i have to hold it by hand or foot to keep rpm at desired range. Anyone know how the friction setting is adjusted?

 

[Anomic]

Ok no one knows i guess. On the back of the bolt that acts as the pivot for the whole assemblly are 2 nuts. Im going to play with adjusting them to sandwhich the whole throttle assembly a bit tighter to see if that keeps it from drifting.

Ill give you guys a crack at these qustions.

#1 an easy one. Bought this tractor used, and i got tire and wheel questions. Banging on the sidewall it sounds as though the rears are filled but only about 50-60% not even so the top of the wheel is probably exposed inside. Seeing as how the tires are 25years old im just going to leave it until i get some new tires down the road and get them filled at the same time. I there any way to more accurtely tell the fill level and whats it filled with? How do i add air im guessing with valve stems at the top?

#2. I hate tippy tractors!!! Eyeballing the wheels it seems to me the fronts are set narrow and rears are set with the hub wide but wheel mounted on the 2nd of 4 positions. Check the pics

Can this be flipped around to go wider?

And the wheel mounted on the back bracket would give me a few inches both sides??
Any reason not to do this? Other than the obvious that it cant fit in small spaces? I have a rider mower i use around the trees and house than am finishing it off with this, and then it does about 8acres of gently slooping meadow and 1 acre of hilly stuff!

Number 3 to follow its the bad one!

 

[Anomic]

#3 the big one!
So i have a slow leak. Usually find a few ounces on floor after its been parked. Its coming out of gaskett shown in picture

Is this fuid filled up from the dipstic or the bolt? I cant tell if its 2 seperate assemblies or the fluid from the axle housing goes all over.

I know its bad but im thinking about treating with lucas stopleak. Any chance of success?

 

[arrow]

Just saw this. if the throttle adjustment is the same as on my 750, you can tighten it at the base of the throttle control . Also check to see if you still have the high speed retention spring behind high speed adjustment screw which is situated a little more than half way down the speed actuator rod. If those 2 bolts you are talking about are at the end of the control rod, all they do is control low idle speed. You could have a bad injection pump if you are losing rpms with throttle engaged .
The way to tell what you are filled with is to insert something to engage the valve stem (while its lower of course) and see what color fluid comes out. I doubt its calcium (will be milky white) and probably anti freeze or windshield washer fluid. If the tire is tubed, it will not matter that it is only partially filled. Your tractor is as old as mine and I just changed out my originals 6 months ago and they were filled with calcium(which necessitates tubes) The fronts should not be adjusted for width by changing sides. You stand the chance of wheel rubbing on front outer gear housing and if it does not do that, you can screw up the geometry load forces for the front end. You do have further play however for the rears to be out wider. She's in nice shape. If you are not going to use her in the winter, park her with the clutch pedal pushed in so you do not freeze the clutch (rust) to the pressure plate.

 

[jd110]

#1 Jack up the tractor and put the valve stem up. Depress the valve to expell any liquid or air. If you get all liquid and no air, then the tire is filled over the rim. If you get a small amount of liquid and then air, start rotating the valve down a little at a time until you get all liquid. That will be your level. Determining what it is filled with is trickier. Windshield washer fluid will smell like alcohol. Calcium chloride or magnesium chloride won't have an odor, but will feel somewhat sticky if a small amount is rubbed between your fingers. Antifreeze would have a distinct odor. Beet juice I haven't had personal experience with. I'm sure someone will chime in with a way to detect that.

#2 The front wheels can be reversed for extra width. Te rear wheels can be bolted to the other row of brackets for extra width also. You actually have two possible options for extra width from your current setting.

Also you are on the right track with the adjustment on the throttle. Tighten the double nuts to get the desired friction on the lever.

 

[arrow]

#3 the big one!
So i have a slow leak. Usually find a few ounces on floor after its been parked. Its coming out of gaskett shown in picture

Is this fuid filled up from the dipstic or the bolt? I cant tell if its 2 seperate assemblies or the fluid from the axle housing goes all over.

I know its bad but im thinking about treating with lucas stopleak. Any chance of success?

Fluid fill is at the yellow screw cap. I would not use stop leak. You have a seal gone or you have a leak from the bolt pictured making it look like its coming from the housing.

 

[jd110]

The front axle is filled at the dipstick. The bolt you refer to is to aid in filling to allow air out so the hubs will begin to fill. I doubt you will have any luck with the stop leak. The only repair that will work is to disassemble and replace the seals.

 

[Anomic]

You could have a bad injection pump if you are losing rpms with throttle engaged

No its definently the control. I can watch the hand throttle slowly come back until it is down to around 1000rpm then it stops. I believe the 750 is very similar. Will try what you said!

Fluid fill is at the yellow screw cap. I would not use stop leak. You have a seal gone or you have a leak from the bolt pictured making it look like its coming from the housing.

It definently is coming from the seal where the arrow is pointed. The reason it is all clean and shiny is i couldnt tell where it was coming from with all the caked grease and crud so i cleaned it off and it is the seal.

Good news that it shares the resovoir above. I definently am not going to run out of oil then! Ive been watching the dipstick and it hasnt changed level which is why i was wondering if it was a seperate resovoir.


Thanks for the help!!

The tractor is in good shape. The "free" bushog is needing alot more work

Im trying to decided if its worth welding back together. Would need angle welded around almost the whole permiter, and a sheet welded on the deck under where the driveshaft is. It does cut great and is a "bushhog squeller" but with all the cracks i dont think im going to run it again till its fixed!

 

[Anomic]

One more question. The prior owner ran it since new without front weights. On any kind of incline woth that bushog it feels really light up front to me. Am i being a baby or am i right and some weights are in order? Btw im not going to use that concrete in the above picture. I had it for a tet ancor and wanted to mock up a concrete weight using it.

 

[Tx Jim]

To repair creeping throttle lever tighten nuts (parts key #21)