New Tractor and novice user

   / New Tractor and novice user #1  

James_B2910

New member
Joined
Apr 30, 2003
Messages
8
Location
Loudoun County, Virginia
Tractor
Kubota B2910HSD-F
Got my 2910 last week /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif After reading some discussions, I decided to get the RFM. I was very happy with it. My field grass was so high that I was able to raise the mower taking the first 1' off the top and then mowing the rest on a second pass. The MMM would not have been able to do so. I did have some issues when the front end came up a few times on slopes. I then ordered some counterweight. I think the rear mower actually stopped me from going head-over-heels at some spots. I also got stuck twice in corners. That will need getting used to (angles, turn radius) due to the added length of the RFM.

For the FEL..have not used it yet. Are there rear counterweights for the FEL? I see that most users keep their rear rake/blade on to help. Is this enough? I don't expect to lift much but more pushing of dirt and moving rocks (lots of Rocks).
 
   / New Tractor and novice user #2  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I then ordered some counterweight )</font>

Not sure what you ordered. I preferred mowing with the FEL off; better visibility, shorter overall length, and more comfortable ride. However, there would be no problem just using the FEL for front weight and you could even put weight in the bucket if you needed that much.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Are there rear counterweights for the FEL? )</font>

Yes, you can buy or build a weight box just for that purpose and in reading on TBN, apparently a lot of folks have done that. In my part of the country I've only actually seen such a weight box one time. Seems a waste of money to me. I always just had another implement on the back; most frequently the box blade, although I have on occasion had the tiller or mower on there. The only advantage I see to a dedicated weight box is the smaller size, so if you're working in tight quarters, then I guess it might be worth the cost.
 
   / New Tractor and novice user
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks Bird. I'm still getting used to using this bulletin stuff. In order to get my tractor quicker, I picked it up without the FEL (they had none in stock). So I mowed without the FEL therefore had no front weight. I think you are right that it would only block front visibility. I called the dealer and he ordered me some front weights. He also stated that the weights would help protect the front end of the tractor. I'll get those when I get the FEL. So I don't know what they are neither /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I have seen them though on other tractors.

I don't want to spend anymore money on attachments unless I need them. I'm hoping the rear blade is enough. I have read not to use the FEL without something in the back end. I don't want to use the FEL and RFM together. Honestly, I just think it's too much length for such a new user like myself.

I also forgot to mention the ROPS. Wife got irritated when I took out a few branches from our plum tree while mowing. I also had some space issues around the apple tree. I keep forgetting it adds alot of height in tight areas.
 
   / New Tractor and novice user #4  
As far as figuring the best ways to make turns...that'll come pretty quickly as you learn your tractor. Just remember you'll be pivoting about the rear wheels. Smooth turns minimize any scuffing of your lawn, but may require backing up to cut the grass you missed during the turn. Also, better to go a bit slower initially..until you learn the capabilities of your machine. The frst few (heck, several) times I cut with my 670, mowing took longer then it did with my old Wheel Horse lawn tractor.

I'm with Bird on mowing with the FEL off. Even on fairly steep slopes (25° or so), I've never had the front wheels off the ground. I'm using a gear tractor...normally in 2nd low coming up a slope (or going down). When I first started using the tractor, I was concerned about the front end coming up. I did investigate adding suitcase weights. However, the front of the tractor lifting never became an issue. Mowing with the FEL raises the Center of Gravity...definitely a bit more tippy when traversing a slope. If you do get front weights, at least they'll keep the C of G low.

As far as a weightbox during FEL operations...well, you'd be spending around $150-$200 for a new one. Depending on your circumstances, you may not have any alternatives. However, I use my back blade exclusively. Just gotta remember it's back there!

One question I do have...you mentioned you mowed in two passes...the first took a foot off the top of the grass, then finished on the 2nd pass. Did you mow with the RFM raised up on the 3 point hitch? Or, did you just raise the mowing height of the RFM? If the mower was up in the air (3 PH up), I'm sure your issues with the front end of the tractor bobbing are due to that. You really don't want to operate the RFM off the ground. I may have misinterpreted your post, of course.
 
   / New Tractor and novice user #5  
<font color="blue">…he ordered me some front weights. He also stated that the weights would help protect the front end of the tractor. I'll get those when I get the FEL…</font>

Hi James,

Congrats on your new unit… and welcome to TBN… /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

You may want to confirm with your dealer, those front weights are going to be compatible “while the loader is mounted”…? In many cases, the front weights “must be removed” when using the bucket/loader due to front space constraints… (both don’t fit together well)

<font color="blue">…without the FEL therefore had no front weight. I think you are right that it would only block front visibility…</font>

Many buckets are “quick detach” and can be removed without removing the entire loader assembly… this will allow you a better view up front and eliminate the need for removal of everything…

<font color="blue">…Is this enough? I don't expect to lift much but more pushing of dirt and moving rocks (lots of Rocks)…</font>

/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

James… have you checked the weight of “dirt and rocks” lately… /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif It’s heavy… /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif It doesn’t matter whether you’re pushing the load or lifting it… the more bulk weight you have on your side is the key to success…

Consider this… instead of buying “front tractor weights”, buy front wheel weights and leave them mounted all the time, they won’t interfere with the loader operation, and will help keep the front end down with heavier rear implements… then you can either fill your rear tires with fluid or use rear wheel weights for more tractor stability and the ballast you will need for your intended jobs…
 
   / New Tractor and novice user
  • Thread Starter
#6  
The RFM was raised or up by using the 3PH. I did notice slight bobbing but was careful to go slow. Mainly because of the tall grass but also because I am a novice user. I do not intend to make practice of this technique but used it because the grass was so high. It really isn't very safe.

I'll check and make sure the front weights are compatable and easy on/off types. The wheel weights are a great idea, I'll check on the price differences.
 
   / New Tractor and novice user #7  
The RFM was raised or up by using the 3PH. I did notice slight bobbing but was careful to go slow. Mainly because of the tall grass but also because I am a novice user. I do not intend to make practice of this technique but used it because the grass was so high

Running the mower while off the guide wheels isn't a good idea. I'm sure the manual you got with the mower goes into this. Raised up is for transport only, not to cut the field at a higher length. Not only does it raise the C of G, anything you hit (heavier brush, branches) would fly out under the mower. I'm sure this caused the issues you first described. Front weights may not be necessary if you run the mower on the ground.

I strongly urge you to not do this again!

Your comment about the ROPS hitting branches comes home to me. When I first got my tractor, I was going slow enough to dodge under or push any branches aside. Of course, they'd hit the ROPS and I'd get thumped from behind! Well, even though I'm a country boy, I do pick up on things like that pretty quick. Now, after the first mow of the season, I trim any branches that I find (as I mow) that could be a hazard.
 
   / New Tractor and novice user #8  
I certainly agree with Roy Jackson about mowing with the mower lifted by the 3-point hitch, and once you quit doing that, I doubt that you need the extra weights for the front end at all.
 
   / New Tractor and novice user #9  
I will assume your FEL will have brackets & a front bumper & such that stays on the tractor. this should be enough front weight for you.

I don't know of front weights & a FEL ever being compatable, or needed. if you need the weight, leave the loader on. If you don't, take it off.

I think you should call your dealer, cancel the front weights, & get a weight box.

You NEED weight on the back when you are using a loader. It sounds like you don't want to lug a bulky implement along when loading - I agree with you there! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

IMHO, drop the needless front weights (you got suckered by that dealer!) and get some rear weights.

--->Paul
 
   / New Tractor and novice user #10  
The loader mounting frame should indeed add several hundred pounds toward the front of your tractor, and often makes additional weights unnecessary in the front. If the loader frame has not yet been installed on your tractor, you may want to wait until it has been, and then see how the balance feels. You definitely don't want to be mowing with an unstable rig.

Edit by Grandad: Oops, Rambler. Meant this for the original poster, not you!
 

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