New Tractor Buyer - Where to Start?

[christiansok]

Hi, new member here. We will be moving soon to a new house with more space where owning a tractor would make a bit more sense and could be used a lot more. Lurking these forums for a little bit I see a lot of people recommending to buy enough tractor and I'm hoping to avoid the mistake of needing to upgrade shortly after buying my first tractor because it couldn't accomplish what I was hoping to do. I don't really have an idea of where to start so I'm hoping some of the more experienced people here can at least help me narrow down the type of tractor/size I should be looking at and go from there.

A little about the use it would see/property it's used on:

Both locations in Central Wisconsin

Home - 26 acres, nearly all wooded. Sandy soil, very flat. Mix of pines and small oak. Would be looking to use the tractor to do snow clearing, driveway maintenance (gravel, not very long), trails in woods, small food plot work, wood cutting, garden work (tilling, moving dirt, etc), some light brush clearing.

Family Land - 80 acres, nearly all wooded. Sandy/Muck, very flat. Larger trees than home. Main use here would be to level out/maintain ATV trails in the woods, some small food plot work, brush clearing.

My Wants - Front end loader, 4WD, something new enough it doesn't take a ton of maintenance. If I'm relying on it for clearing snow from my driveway I wouldn't want to have to mess with it every time I need to get it started. Small enough that it fits the trails used by ATV/UTV (my side by side is 63" wide) would be a big plus. Also the family land is about a 45 minute drive from home and we go out there fairly often. Something that isn't so large that moving it between the two places is a hassle. Ideally I could get a trailer to haul both the tractor (with FEL and an implement on back) and UTV in one trip. Not sure how reasonable that would be so that might not even be a possibility (we do have a 3/4 ton diesel truck if anyone has experience doing this with similar?).

Appreciate any input and help to point me in the right direction and really get started in narrowing the search down. Thanks.

 

[nybirdman]

We have a L3000Dt Kubota,which is a gear tractor,a similar sized in hydro would do the same work.It is an open station about 30 H.P.
four wheel drive with a FEL.runs a five foot bush-hog,roto tiller,two bottom plow,rear blade ect.
So about 30-35 H.P,4WD,Fel in about any brand would serve your purpose.

 

[nards444]

probably something around the 25 horse power mark and stay out of emissions. Probably what most companies would call a level 2 tractor. JD 2025, Kubota B2650, etc. Good information on forums here, but I would suggest going to dealers first and asking around and getting a good picture idea then come back and maybe asking pointed questions

 

[Ricmar]

Sounds like you have an idea of what you would do with a tractor, but after getting one, the sky is the limit . There are many attachments, out there, and many power ( hydraulic ) devices. The best advice I can give is, shop for a dealer / tractor that you feel comfortable with. The service and sales is as important as the machine. How close is the dealer, do they provide home service, and are they knowledgeable ? The size of your purchase is important, and probably your are looking at a 25 - 40 hp unit, with hydraulics to run the front end loader etc. But another handy attachment would be a grapple, front end loader etc. In choosing your machine keep in mind , ease of use. There are brands that have quick attach devices. As we ( me ) get older I don't have the strength or wants to be man handling heavy things. I have everything that attaches by one movement or sliding on, or driving over it to get it on. ( I bought a John Deere 1025R , front end loader, fork lift, front end blower, mid mount mower, rear drop sander, grapple, and heavy hitch rear weights ) Everything will go on easily with just me doing it. Hope this helps , good luck

Rick from Ontario Canada

 

[rScotty]

We have a L3000Dt Kubota,which is a gear tractor,a similar sized in hydro would do the same work.It is an open station about 30 H.P.
four wheel drive with a FEL.runs a five foot bush-hog,roto tiller,two bottom plow,rear blade ect.
So about 30-35 H.P,4WD,Fel in about any brand would serve your purpose.

I'd say the same, but want you to think about HP and weight. 30 to 35 hp is plenty for most jobs, and that size tractor will do good work for you and also be more easily trailered because it is of a size just before you get into much heavier and somewhat wider machines.

If you move up, what you get on a tractor in the 40 to 60 hp range is the ability to do 35 hp chores more easily & without being run wide ope. You also get quite a bit more weight - which equals more traction. Plus a lot more - maybe double as much lifting/carrying capacity. What you lose is the trailerability.

The world is moving toward HST transmissions and they are more convenient. But the older gear type transmissions now mostly come with a shuttle for instant clutchless shifting from forward to reverse and they are perfected. They are simple, less costly, and last forever. And really after a little practice the gear+shuttle or powershifting transmissions are nearly as convenient as the HST.

Be sure to get a FEL with SSQA and "third function" hydraulics. And get at least one spare remote hydraulic outlet on the rear end. Those options don't cost much initially, and give you a lot of options.

Unless you are the real exception, you will probably get use your first tractor to learn what to buy next time. So lean toward popular brands with good resale for your first machine.
Good luck, and ask questions.
rScotty

 

[airbiscuit]

Just to get my bearings, I would go to a John Deer Dealer and test drive each of their different Frame Size Tractor series. The reason I mention John Deere is that their series numbers fall into neat categories:

• 1xxx = Subcompact - probably a bit small for your needs (like Kubota BX series) ~ 4 foot Implements
• 2xxx = Small Frame Compact - smallest size I would consider for your needs - easy to haul (like Kubota B Series) ~ 4 or 5 foot Implements
• 3xxx = Medium Frame Compact - maybe the Goldilocks size (Like many Kubota L series) 5 foot Implements
• 4xxx - Large Frame Compact - more traction, usable power, etc. (Like largest Kubota Grand L and smallest M series) 6 foot implements

Try them out, see how they "feel" and imagine them on your property. I'm guessing the small or medium frame tractors are the sweet spot for you. Don't swoon over horsepower. It is usually matched well to the tractor size, and anything from 25hp to 45 hp will work for you, a 33hp medium frame would be my choice.

Once you decide on size:

• Used or New?
• Brand? - (anything but Chinese is in th egane)
• Hydro or Shuttle? (I like both, but hydro is easy)
• SSQA? - (easier to add forks, and other attachments to your loader)
• 3rd Function? (another hydraulic control for a grapple)
• Rear Remotes? - (additional hydraulic controls for implements - can be used for a grapple)
• Extendable Links /3pt Stabilizer Bars? (make it easier to attach 3pt implements [you love em if you have em])
• Tires? - (Ag, Industrial or Turf)

You may not be able to get everything you want depending on price and availability, but you will be able to get everything you need.

 

[jeff9366]

AIRBISCUIT: Nice graphic.

CHRISTIANSOK: Are you considering a CAB tractor or solely OPEN STATION?

Do you get enough snow so you need a snow blower, or will a front snow plow or front snow push box suffice?






The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Neophyte tractor operators are often intimidated by instability of tractors with small front wheels and large rear wheels, therefore frequently purchase tractors too light, too small for long term satisfaction. ((Tractors seem to shrink after about twenty hours of operating experience.))

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Sufficient tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is worse than depreciation on a tractor.

 

[MossRoad]

Welcome to TBN! :thumbsup:

No one has addressed your desire to haul both a tractor with FEL and implement on the back AND your UTV in one trip. That's gonna take long trailer (thanks Captain Obvious) with special attention to load balancing. Get some lengths of tractors you are considering and add the length of your UTV plus some fudge factor for insurance, then start pricing trailers that can handle that length, and see how that impacts your budget. Trailers like that won't be inexpensive. Then consider if your tow vehicle is capable of that size trailer and weight, and what modifications you might have to make to your hitch, brake controllers, etc... it all starts adding up quickly.

 

[jeff9366]

probably something around the 25 horse power mark and stay out of emissions. Probably what most companies would call a level 2 tractor. JD 2025, Kubota B2650, etc. Good information on forums here, but I would suggest going to dealers first and asking around and getting a good picture idea then come back and maybe asking pointed questions

Tier IV emission standards require tractor manufacturers to add or revise pollution reduction technology on new tractors generating over 19 kW power = 25.4794 horsepower.

Most manufactures can meet Tier IV requirements without a Diesel Particulate Fillter up to about 27 horsepower via engine design and injection timing.

DPF is used by the majority of tractor manufactures for more powerful tractors, but not all.

Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) captures exhaust particulates (soot) in a ceramic matrix. When tractor engine runs sufficiently hot, accumulated particulates burn off periodically without operator intervention. If engine is not run continuously hot long enough to burn off particulates, diesel soot accumulates in the matrix. Once heavy soot accumulates in DPF the tractor forces soot clearance with the tractor parked and throttle open to about 2,200 rpm for about sixteen minutes, which makes the DPF REALLY HOT to burn off all accumulated soot. Burning off accumulated soot, either during operation or parked is called REGENERATION.

VIDEO: Comparing Kubota's 26hp Compact Tractors - YouTube

 

[nards444]

Welcome to TBN! :thumbsup:

No one has addressed your desire to haul both a tractor with FEL and implement on the back AND your UTV in one trip. That's gonna take long trailer (thanks Captain Obvious) with special attention to load balancing. Get some lengths of tractors you are considering and add the length of your UTV plus some fudge factor for insurance, then start pricing trailers that can handle that length, and see how that impacts your budget. Trailers like that won't be inexpensive. Then consider if your tow vehicle is capable of that size trailer and weight, and what modifications you might have to make to your hitch, brake controllers, etc... it all starts adding up quickly.

Good ideas often times get washed out once the money starts coming into play. Brand new pricing on a tractor alone that was talked about above start around 20k, trailer to haul tractor and UTV would have to be an equipment trailer at probably $5k brand new for a 25ft trailer, possibly longer and possibly more money. Now your hauling around a 5k lb trailer, 3-4k tractor and 1-2k UTV, which now your tired 1/2 ton cant haul around 10-12k and your looking at $60k truck. This might not be the op but I see this all the time, a good idea morphs into $100k over night. Often times it means sacrificing in one way or another.