New Tractor for buyer new to tractors

   / New Tractor for buyer new to tractors #41  
I just looked at the LX2610 a couple of others recommended. That does look like a nice choice in this size range. I se they also have an LX 2620 out. Not sure what the difference is.
Different lights and transmission. The 2610 is way louder and whiny. 2620 is. Ice, but my feet were so big, it was uncomfortable. I loved the lx3520, but the stupid deck flexed when my ass climbed on, I didn't like it
 
   / New Tractor for buyer new to tractors
  • Thread Starter
#42  
How new of a machine would require you to pay a tax on the import? Could you buy a lightly used, 10 year old machine in Washington say, for $16k US/22,260CD? I don't really know anything about Canada, but I believe Mexico, vehicles over 10 years old aren't/weren't subject to the import tax?
Good questions. Will have to research that. Canada typically wants its share of taxes on anything though, so will be surprised if they don't charge tax.
 
   / New Tractor for buyer new to tractors
  • Thread Starter
#43  
   / New Tractor for buyer new to tractors
  • Thread Starter
#44  
Have you considered the L2502?
Quick question. Looks like the L2502 has lower engine HP and lower PTO HP than the B2601. Why choose a lower powered tractor?
 
   / New Tractor for buyer new to tractors #45  
Quick question. Looks like the L2502 has lower engine HP and lower PTO HP than the B2601. Why choose a lower powered tractor?
It’s a heavier framed, more robust machine and will outperform a B series in actual usage. 1 extra HP in a lighter, smaller framed machine will not matter.
 
   / New Tractor for buyer new to tractors
  • Thread Starter
#46  
It’s a heavier framed, more robust machine and will outperform a B series in actual usage. 1 extra HP in a lighter, smaller framed machine will not matter.
Makes sense. Thanks
 
   / New Tractor for buyer new to tractors #47  
Some food for thought.
1)ERGONOMICS: sit on several brands of tractors and see what it take to adjust things so you are comfortable. ie is your arm stretched when operating the loader controls, if so you quickly get a sore arm. Can you get on and of easily? Put your boots and rain gear on, is it still easy to operate the controls and got on and off?
2) budget: is a low hour used tractor OK for you or are they so expensive it is better to go new?
3)impliments/attatchments: backhoe, hire a mini excavator when needed and put the money saved into attatchments. Others have said how litttle their backhoes are actually used.
4)loader: get 3rd sevice on purchase as they are expensive to retro fit.Note there a 2 types of 3rd service. True 3rd service and electric change over valve on the crowd/curl function on the joystick.(button operated)
5) tiny front wheels find every hole and make for an uncomfortable ride.
6) carryall/tray/transport tray: very useful and under rated.
7) SAFTEY: Get a 2 piece rim so you can widen the track to reduce rollover risk. Tractor in the size you are looking at are horribly tippy compared to 100 hp tractors.
Loader: should be kept low to reduce roll over risk. ie loader high(bucket empty) and sudden sharp turn and you can roll on FLAT ground easily. It is worse with a full bucket.
8)Ballast: fill the rear tyres, AND get a 3ph ballast box to put on for loader work. Ask other members for their ballast box designs as there is a wide variety and many members set theirs up for other work as well. eg reciever hitches.
Re ballast, ask locally what works best in tyres. ie where Ilive the winters are mild and water ballast is used. In other places water can't be used as it freezes.
Good Luck
 

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