New Tractor Owner

[CarlGrub]

I going to pick up my first tractor tomorrow and have a few questions, it seems you guys can help. BTW the tractor is a Kubota L3830 HST, think I filled out the profile. I am picking up the tractor and have read the thread about the nylon strap failure, i'll be using chain.

Questions are:

My first projects will be basic loader work, clearing over grown shrub brush, box blade grading.

-What are the first basic add-on one needs to the new tractor? For example, weld hooks on the top side FEL bucket? Others?

-Do you drill or torch or plasma cut the holes for mouting a tooth bar to the bucket?

-When pulling or dragging stumps/timber etc, where should you hook chain?

-where to place small tool box for chain, sheer pins etc?


Any tips sugguestions, I am all ears!

Thanks,

Carl

 

[SCB]

Congratulations Carl!
I used a bi-metal hole saw for the toothbar. I usually hook to the center hook for pulling, unless it is very large and then I will use left and right together. Lots of toys that can be of use with the tracor, I'm sure you will get lots of ideas. If you are new to tractors, then read the manual and start slow. That's great machione yo uare going to get to play oops! I mean work with, but always think before do. Enjoy!

Just read you profile. SO you are new to tractoring. One suggestion, be patient with the boxblade. There is a definate learning curve. Lots of info here on tbn for that. Did you get loaded tires? Make sure you have counterweight on the back for using the loader. Your boxblade will work for that.

 

[KiotiJohn]

Welcome to the forum, or should I say, posting to the forum as you have obviously been doing a lot of reading.
I would have said first thing, get a toothbar, but you know that. Posters have said they've done the holes for the toothbar each way you mentioned. I drilled mine. You can get a unibit, bimetal hole saw that will work pretty well. Mine uses 3/4" bolts so make sure you get a bit that will do that. Others have torched theirs, but be careful not to cut out more than you need.
Hooks are nice, but I haven't bothered to put any on at this point. Just haven't needed them as I often use a boom pole for moving things around.
When dragging anything, it's not a good idea to get any higher than the drawbar. Most things can be dragged by hooking up there. I added a clevis eye (C shaped with a bolt that goes through and attaches both sides of the eye together) into mine for running a chain through it as there was only a hole in the bar. Pulling up higher can cause the tractor to flip over on the pendulum of the rear wheels.
There have been quite a few posts about adding a box on the loader mounting frame for chains and other goodies. You might go to SEARCH at the top, enter ALL FORUMS, the word TOOLBOX and choose ALL POST or NEWER THAN ONE YEAR to find some suggestions on toolboxes.
You may also wish to check into a Pat's EZ Change system to make hooking up your attachments easier. There are other types as well, such as the Speeco quick hitch and others, but keep in mind that if they attach points are not moveable, you may not be able to hook up every implement as the spacing may not be the same. This has not been a problem for me with Pat's EZ Change.
I hope this gives you good answers to some of your questions. Feel free to ask more specific questions of us all. Good tractoring!
John

 

[Bob_Young]

Hi Carl and welcome.

I'd like to emphasize what SCB said about starting slow. If you're new to this type of equipment, you can do alot of damage. Keep the RPMs down for awhile and operate at a speed that gives you plenty of time to spot your mistakes and stop before they turn into a disaster. And if you make a boo-boo anyway, the engine might stall before the damage gets serious.

Be especially mindful of which way the FEL and the implement on the 3 pt. hitch are going to swing as you enter a turn; especially when in reverse. There's alot hanging out there and, even when moving slowly, the rotational speed and momentum at the bucket can be quite high in a tight turn. If speed and RPMs are low it will minimize your chances of doing serious damage to either the tractor or what you hit.

Whenever you are near a vehicle or a building, slow to a crawl. You bought the tractor to help with your work, not create more. Later, when you get used to it, a more normal speed can be used. Can't tell you how many times this has saved me.

Of course if you've been operating tractors for awhile, you know all this already.

Good luck with that thing.
Bob

 

[slowrev]

Congratulations on your new tractor. As the others have said, start out slow..And the boxblade...I am by no means an expert with one but don't expect to get it right in one pass /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Ben

 

[LarryD]

<font color="blue"> Whenever you are near a vehicle or a building, slow to a crawl. </font>

This is VERY good advice. I can't tell you the exact radius my tractor requires to make a turn but there are a few trees marked on my property that are inside that radius. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[TroyR57]

Do you drill or torch or plasma cut the holes for mouting a tooth bar to the bucket?


I would say Drill, as cutting, can lead to stress cracks in the steel. Also use a sharp drill bit, as a dull one can lead to cracks also, I know, I look for cracks in steel for a living, Railroad Safety Inspector. We use ultrasonics, to look for these cracks. Bolt holes drilled with dull bits, or cut with a torch, lead to broken rails, which, can cause trains to derail /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif.