New washer and dryer.

[DT86]

We just got new front load Samsung washer and dryer for the new place, very nice units.

What I'm having trouble with is the washer likes to scoot out about 6" during a cycle. It runs smooth, never hear it at all. The dryer makes noise, thumping off balance type noise (with jeans or other heavy stuff), but doesn't move at all. They are both setting level and on the bases with drawers, on linoleum over concrete. It's an inconvenience but if it were to scoot 9" and the laundry room door were shut I'd need a fireman's axe to get back in.

What is the solution here? I thought about a thin metal strip bolted to the floor in front of the feet or a strap of some sort in back to tie it to the studs.

 

[westcliffe01]

A slight indentation for the feet of the machine to "nest into" ? Possibly a 1" square of double sided tape under the feet (the type used on cars to hold rubber trim on the outside of doors etc).

 

[ultrarunner]

The first front loader I installed actually came with a track for the front "Wheels" to rest.

I thought it was strange... that machine is still running 30 years later.

There may be a balance adjustment that reverses direction when it detects out of balance?

What does the dealer say?

 

[bigdeano]

You could try some rubber pads under the feet.

 

[RSKY]

All front loaders will do that if on a concrete or other hard floor. The problem is the vibrations from the drum spinning 6-900 rpm. One of our friends had one that would move a foot or two on a hardwood floor. Just about anything will stop it. Son-in-law tacked a piece of molding to the floor in their old house. Anything to chock the wheels or feet from scooting.

 

[CurlyDave]

Do you know the construction of the wall behind the washer?

If there is a mud sill foundation bolted to the concrete, I would be inclined to start with two pieces of the galvanized plumber's strap laid flat on the floor and then bent up and screwed into the mud sill. Run them under the washer and screw up into a piece of molding or "something" just in front of the legs of the washer. This stops the movement without having to attach anything directly to the floor, is easily removed and the only holes in the wall easily repaired.

If the mud sill is not bolted to the floor, I would think about the same piece of molding, but attach to the floor with concrete bolts. This is harder to repair properly at the end of the washer's life, but doesn't risk the washer moving the base of the wall over time.

 

[DT86]

Ended up using the plumbers strap suggested. Went from existing bolts in the top rear corners of both washer and dryer in an "X" pattern to the 6" studs with 3 1/2" screws.

I washed a pair of insulated bibs and two thick sweat shirts at the same time. So far, so good!

 

[joefromga]

You could have used anti-slip rubber mat that you put under mats and room rugs. Similar to drawer liner. 10 second install.

 

[oosik]

My front load washer would jump around but I noticed when it had completed washing - it had not moved any. Sooo... one day I watched it - kind of like watching grass grow. It would start jumping then stop and reverse. Whatever it was doing - it "leveled out" the load and quit jumping. I was prepared to put down wood strips to block it but found it to be unnecessary.

 

[DT86]

You could have used anti-slip rubber mat that you put under mats and room rugs. Similar to drawer liner. 10 second install.

The laundry area is small. Just to put a mat under them would have required moving the machines up two steps, into the kitchen and back.

If the mat had been done prior to delivery it would have been great but I didn't think about them moving before hand.

 

[ultrarunner]

When I lived in Europe I soon learned the front loader washers would need room around them to wiggle and reverse until the load would balance...

My mistake was putting one in a corner next to a wall and a sink cabinet where it simply did not work because it could not move enough for the sensor initiated reverse to kick in.... the washer actually came with a track you would attach to the floor to allow for side to side movement.

What did I know as I was use to Sears Kenmore top loaders that didn't jump all over...

 

[Threepoint]

Ended up using the plumbers strap suggested. Went from existing bolts in the top rear corners of both washer and dryer in an "X" pattern to the 6" studs with 3 1/2" screws.

I washed a pair of insulated bibs and two thick sweat shirts at the same time. So far, so good!

Just something to think about, but all that kinetic energy needs to dissipate some way. I wouldn't cinch things down too tight, as you'll be putting more stress on the machine's bearings, and probably other things as well. If there is finished sheet rock over the wall studs, you may end up with nail/screw pops and maybe a popped seam. Are heavy bungees perhaps an alternative to the plumbers' straps? Or rubber foot pads or mats, as others suggest?

This issue comes up from time to time with bench machines in the shop, e.g., whether to bolt a big wood lathe to a concrete floor.

 

[kcflhrc]

I think strapping the machine down is a bad idea. I think there is another issue like it's not level.

 

[DT86]

I think strapping the machine down is a bad idea. I think there is another issue like it's not level.

They are level. I checked that multiple times.

 

[kcflhrc]

They are level. I checked that multiple times.

Kinda strange, I have had our GE Front Loaders for 2 1/2 years and they don't do that on a tile over concrete floor. And that washer spins like crazy.

 

[hawkeye08]

You can have the machines level, but you need equal pressure on the feet to stop the movement. We have Samsung front loaders and they have only moved perhaps a half inch since installing. Our floor in vinyl so that helps, concrete or tile might need some anti-slip (drawer liner) under the feet (2" square would be fine).

 

[lennyzx11]

My wife and I bought a brand new set of front loaders a few years ago. First "new" set for either of us. I installed them and they would always run out of balance and scoot across the laundry room floor.
I reread the manuals one night in desperation.
Then I quietly removed the bolts that locked the ballast weights in place for shipping while she was gone. <sheepish> Never had to with all the used ones I had in my previous years and she had always had someone to install hers till we married.
They've ran smooth as silk for the last 8 years!

 

[dmccarty]

...
Then I quietly removed the bolts that locked the ballast weights in place for shipping while she was gone. <sheepish> Never had to with all the used ones I had in my previous years and she had always had someone to install hers till we married.
They've ran smooth as silk for the last 8 years!

Our old front load eventually went to pieces, POSSIBLY because when we moved, I could not get the bolts back into the machine. I KNEW that I was supposed to replace the bolts since I actually did read the manual when we installed the machine. What I did not read was that a service guy had to reinstall the bolts. I figured this out when we were moving and I tried to reinstall the bolts which did not work. :confused3: Pulled out the manual, read the sentence I had not read years before and muttered some adult punctuation. Told the movers to load 'er up and hoped for the best. The machine lasted another five years or so before it the door latch failed and we could not even open the door. I guess we got 10+ years out of the machine which is not much given the price but we also had young kids and the washer would be running almost all day.

Both of our front loaders have been on slabs and neither of them have walked at all. Though, sometimes they would really shake and rattle if they started to get unbalanced. :confused2:

Later,
Dan

 

[teejk]

When I lived in Europe I soon learned the front loader washers would need room around them to wiggle and reverse until the load would balance...

My mistake was putting one in a corner next to a wall and a sink cabinet where it simply did not work because it could not move enough for the sensor initiated reverse to kick in.... the washer actually came with a track you would attach to the floor to allow for side to side movement.

What did I know as I was use to Sears Kenmore top loaders that didn't jump all over...

We also lived in Europe and experienced the "front-loader" for the second time...the first an old avocado green thing we got from my wife's grandfather. There is a lot of energy in those things but I think the goal was to get as much water out of the clothes as possible (in the old top-loaders the wash cycle would take 15 minutes, the dry cycle 60 minutes). With the front loaders that kinda reversed...on a kwh basis much better that way (dryer is an energy hog). But they do have problems...when we returned to the USA we bought front-loader GE's...the suspension springs broke after 3 years leading to a big argument with GE customer service that left me paying for the repairs (I actually helped the guy because it is not a 1 person job...couldn't help but notice that the replacements were much heftier than the OEM) but also a vow to never buy a GE appliance again...can say that I was never treated so poorly on anything I have ever purchased. New trend is to go back to the "top-loader" but the design has changed to spin as fast as the front loaders.

 

[ultrarunner]

The brand I bought in Europe is EUDORA... it actually cleaned very well and made it's own hot water.

Many still launder with just about boiling water for whites and I never do that here in the States... my water heater is in the 130 +/- range in California.

My boss overseas was very proud of his home... he had all American Appliances... side by side refrigerator with ice and water in the door and a Maytag Washer/Dryer pair...

Just goes to show how some things are more valued when they are not the norm...