newbe

wadeschields · Apr 8, 2010

Seems a house we bought came with a Ford 9N. Great condition with a brush hog ....but I now need to learn how to use it. What it can do and what it cant do. Id like to mow grass with it and tame the wild areas of the yard.
Any suggestions and pointers will be very appreciated Thanks
Wade

PS I just won a Woods RM59.... Hope it works?? Not like me to bid on something with out more research. Pick it up this weekend.

wadeschields · Apr 9, 2010

Im not seeing any photos of other 9Ns that look like mine. Different paint scheme maybe but it seems more different then just that. Other 9N descriptions seem right such as the clutch and brake pedals but so far all I know is what the previous owner showed me...and I have a brain like a sieve sometimes

Soundguy · Apr 9, 2010

post some pics of your machine.

a 9n/2n will have a 3spd tranny, wide 5bolt front hubs, stradle brakes, one on each side, and draft only hyds, non live pto and hyds.

119ci flat head engine with front mount distrib.. points gap at .015, plugs at .025.. I reccomend autolite 437 plugs, though 216 will work as wellas champion h12 or h10

all these oil filter canisters fit.. though the fram c3 is the cheapest:

Ford Part Number: CPN 6371B 9N-18649, 9N-6714, 9N-2731
Fram C3, C3-P
NAPA Gold 1010
Motorcraft FL 144
Balidwin P40
Big A 92010
Bosch 72127
Carquest 85010
Fleetguard LF574
Wix 51010
Purolater L20110 or L20701
Fleetrite LFR-8574
Texaco HSO-100
Unocal OF 1010
White 10575
Hastings Mighty M3LF-130
Luber-Finer P3

ignition parts:

Front Mount distributor...
Points:
NAPA #CS35
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-6769X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA200
Standard Ignition #FD-71
Rotor:
NAPA #FA300
Standard Ignition #FD-104
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA350
Standard Ignition #FD-126

Removing the front distrib is a 15 minute 2 bolt job.. remove wire to coil, slip bail off, remove coil, unclip cap and let hang, remove 2 bolts and pull distrib out side.. reset points ( need to get a manual so you can see the diagram for static timing.. hint.. use a .25" drill bit as a measuring tool ).. reinstall with new gaskets, fit distrib by hand, and spin rotor till it falls intot he offset tang drive of the cam shaft.. then once flush, take the bolts down.

no live pto or hyds. have to step on clutch to engage pto, aft of left foot.. then when you let off clutch pto spins,a nd spins the hydro pump in the belly.

hyds are draft sensing.. meaning if you want to mow, buy/make a set of limit chains.. the bracket pins at the toplink then has a chain to each lower lift arm.. raise lift where you want it, hang chains into the bracket, then relaxe lift.. now mower stays at that height, and you can lift it, then let it back down tot hat height instead of constantly adjsuting it ( 8n has position control.. but not 9n / 2n unless the 9n/2n has an 8n lift cover and pump.. or an aftermarket add on position control linkage installed ).

your lift, if good should pick up about 800# or more if you can keep the front down.

119 ci engine.. figure mid 20's hp ( 9n/2n had lower compression ratio, unless it has a newer 8n replacement head.. then figure 27hp on a good engine ).

tranny, hyds, and diffy is a 5g common sump.. use a 90wt gl1 or 3 oil in there, or an 80w90 gl4/5 that is yellow metal saft.. or you can use a utf that meets the M2C134D spec.

engine oil? whatever gives you some oil pressure.. I've seen everything from 10w30 in a freshly rebuilt engine to 50w straight in a tired engine with 8 psi oil pressure.

a good n will pull a 5' rough cut mower or 6' finish mower usually.. and that machine will pull a 2 bottom plow up to 14" bottoms.. or a single 16. should do a 6.5' dual ganged disc as well.

on the mower.. get an over runiing couple to go between the pto stub on the tractor and mower.. otherwis ehte mower will backfeed the trans and make it hard for you to stop. oem pto stub was 1 1/8 " and 6 spline.. new standard is 1 3/8" 6 spline.. they make adapters and orc's in sizes to fit or adapt to either.

post back if you have specific questions.

soundguy

wadeschields · Apr 9, 2010

Awesome info Soundguy . Thank You. I am still in the process of moving and have not even gotten the tractor out of the barn yet. Heard it run though. Previous owner demonstrated lifting the Bushhog and other controls but that is all I know. If I have time this weekend after picking up the Woods mower I hope to hook it all up and see if it works. I will take better photos of it then. So far only photo I have is the one in my profile.

Mousefield · Apr 9, 2010

Take your time learning how to use it. They need to be operated safely. :thumbsup:

TripleR · Apr 9, 2010

There are several sites dedicated to those old Fords. I farmed with an 8N and 9N until 1955 when we traded both on a new 600 and don't remember much about them, but they are still pretty popular around my area. For no more horse power than they have, they will do a lot of work. Just a word of advice, when driving, keep your thumbs outside of the steering wheel as the kickback can be a bear.

Soundguy · Apr 9, 2010

post back if ya have any questions..

soundguy

wadeschields said:
Awesome info Soundguy . Thank You. I am still in the process of moving and have not even gotten the tractor out of the barn yet. Heard it run though. Previous owner demonstrated lifting the Bushhog and other controls but that is all I know. If I have time this weekend after picking up the Woods mower I hope to hook it all up and see if it works. I will take better photos of it then. So far only photo I have is the one in my profile.

fire72 · Apr 9, 2010

Take a look at just8ns.com and ytmag.com for more info.

wadeschields · Apr 12, 2010

This is my Tractor

Here it is with its Bushhog

Thats not me riding it. Previous owner while showing me how it works.. And because of my few minutes on this site I understand more and new the right things to look for like the fact that my tractor has a 12v conversion and a slip clutch in place as well.

Now my questions...I purchase this Woods R59 last week and hooked it up on Sunday with the PO. First problem is the front of the mower wont drop down far enough. I said I think the driveshaft is too long and PO agreed. He said I could cut it down. He also questioned the top point on the three point hitch. Vertical position and the looseness of the pivot point at the shaft between the bars as shown.
Hopefully the photos help describe my dilemma

So- assuming I can cut it down . Tell me if my thinking is correct here. I have an electric cutter. (Better then a hacksaw). I will need to cut the dust sheath on the "plain" end . Other end has a large mouth to go over the universal joint. Then I will need to cut the shafts inside. (male and female) . At least I believe I will need to cut both. Any tips on doing this will be helpful. Now the important question is--- How much to cut off??? I noticed that the shaft expands quite a bit when raised to the full amount , so it would be VERY bad if I cut it too short. If I was to guess at how much to cut of I would say 2 inches. Is there a better way to figure it out? And what else should I be looking out for?

Thanks
Wade