newer model improvements?

[magyarbacsi]

This question is mainly for the mechanics, importers and dealers of these Chinese tractors. I've noticed that some earlier suggestions on improving the machines is now factory installed. Example, there is an old thread on how to add an external filter to the hydraulic unit. I see that the factory now installs a large in-line spin on filter and rerouted the low pressure line that is no longer under the seat, but goes to the lower right side of the case.

I continuously come across posts re premature wear and failure of the clutch pack and broken front axles. Is the company doing something better regarding these two major issues? I dont mind the electronics like the switches as one can modify them buy just putting individual togle switches to the various circutis, i.e. lights, glow plugs and even just have a starter button for the starter, like the older ford trucks etc. Braking an axle or having to split the unit to replace the clutch takes a bit more doing.

So how are the replacement units hold up and is there for example a better made clutch pack available or do we just put on another problematic unit and hope for the best?

 

[bluechip]

Most of the clutch failures are first time users who cant get out of the habit of using the clutch pedal to modulate ground speed. Its gotta be in or out, no operating in between!. Last I heard, the 200 series Jinma with shuttle uses the older 8" clutch, rather than the 9 inch that has been used on the 25HP for the last several years. (all earlier units had 8" clutches). Some shops have had some success with using modern friction materials like Kevlar on clutch disks. This is done at stateside clutch rebuilding shops.

Also it is critical to maintain an inch or so of free travel on the clutch pedal to allow the throw out bearing to come complely off the clutch fingers. If normal clutch wear takes away this travel, the clutch will fail quickly either by reducing the pressure on the disk or by failure of the throw out bearing which will eventually seize from constant turning. once it seizes, it grinds off teh clutch fingers. The same thing can happen by resting a foot on the clutch pedal, which effectively takes the free play out.

The front diff continues to be a weak spot on the 200 series jinma only, and it is only a problem if you add a front loader. Most owners work around the problem by not using 4wd when doing heavy loader work. Adequate counterweight on the rear will help keep the load off the front axle on on the much heavier duty rear axle. Front diff on any 4wd tractor can be damaged if left engaged while driving on hard surfaces, the wheels must be able to slip to compensate for slight differences in distance traveled between front and rear wheels. Weight in the loader bucket greatly improves traction on front wheels and makes it harder for them to slip as needed.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Here is my opinion/take on it.....

I am assuming you are referring to the Jinma 200 series Jinma tractor 254/284 ??.

2005 is when I seen the first external hydraulic spin on filter located near the starter. Depending on which engine and lift box determines location of return/suction line.

Premature Clutch Wear :
For the record, I don't sell crate tractors but, do import the tractors in a crate. I have yet to uncrated one that the clutch has not been out of adjustment. Most have a two stage clutch that require 4 adjustments. Most all straight out of the crate... you can change gears etc.. but, when you go into the bell housing etc .... it is way out. I can see the clutch life being very short if not corrected prior to being put to work. As of yet, I have not experienced premature clutch failure on the ones I service / prep /sold/sell. These tractors must have a proper service /prep before putting to work by the end user or seller !! ... somebodys got to do it or problems will happen.

9 inch clutches are in the tractors with creeper and 8 inch clutches are in tractors with shuttle shift. On a side note, the newer models are going to have a 6 finger pressure plate verses a 3 finger which should make the pedal easier to push. I should/hope to see those in my next container ??


Broken Front Axles:
There has been many post about axles breaking doing loader work in 4x4 on the 200 series Jinma. Some will tell you not to do it and never owned /broke one with a loader. The 254 / 284 was and still is a very popular tractor with lots of parts here in the USA. The people that have contacted me that have broken a axle looking for parts and help from across the USA and after talking with them the tractors in my opinion where never set properly from the get go. They were never educated on counter weight, tire pressure, operation etc. There are does and don't with all tractors and some axles are stronger / weaker than others no doubt. I have replaced axles in other makes over the years and most did not have or were using counter weight. You have to keep the rear tires biting the ground and not ask the small front differential /axles to move the tractor and load on all tractors. My opinion with proper counter weight/traction you don't even have to put it in 4x4 unless working in deep mud or slope. The 4x4 front drive assemblies are larger that the 2 wheel drive models which helps with carrying the load in the bucket for sure.

I only sell truly serviced and prepped Jinma tractors. 99% of all tractors I sell with loaders leave with the rear tires loaded, rims flipped for a wider stance, educate the purchaser.... most are newbie's and as of yet, No Problems with happy customers.

You can't rule out that there are new defects in everything.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply