Backhoe NH 758C Backhoe ?s

[Red_Dog]

After searching the archives on TBN, we still have numerous questions about the New Holland 758C Backhoe. We will be installing this unit on a NH TC40D tractor. How difficult is the installation to do yourself? Do you have to remove the 3PH to install? We will be using the underframe mounts and would like to know how difficult/timely it is to remove the backhoe and put a box blade on after everything has been installed. We have the specs for dig depth, load height, etc, but nothing on the power of this unit. Any help or info on this unit would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for the help. Matt.

 

[AndyMA]

I used a 758C on my 2120 for over 10 years and took it on and off many times. Off was about 1 minute and on could be between 15 min and a couple of hours depending on how well aligned you were backing in and how level everything was. When you drop it, the more level the ground, the easier the reattachment. A crow bar and/ or a car type hydralic jack help much with alignment when putting it back on. As far as going from hoe to 3pt hitch, on mine the quick attach used the same pins as the lower 3 pt. arms. All you had to do was take out the small bolts on th epins and remove the arms and them put the pins back in. Initial assembly took a few hours and wasn't bad, except that a few pieces were fairly heavy. The backhow is fairly powerful for a hoe it's size and I moved many large rocks and stumps with mine. You just have to understand leverage and use the bucket properly as it's not a large excavator and requires more finese.Andy

 

[Rowski]

I have a 759C on my 2120. I can leave my 3pt arms on. It comes off really easy but can take up to 1/2 hr if things don't line up. I have had it on once in under 10 minutes but everything lined up perfectly and I wasn't in a hurry.

If you like, I can give more detailed description of how it gets hook up.

 

[Red_Dog]

Rowski, Thanks for the info. Yes, any additional info on the hookup or removal would be very helpful. If you have pictures, that would also be great! Thanks.

 

[BIGBLUETOY]

Matt
I have a TC40D with a subframed mounted 758C hoe. I do not have to remove my 3 point hitch arms when the hoe is on. I bought it in Nov. of last year and have not taken it off yet. My dealer gave me the pallet it was shipped on and I'm making a dolly out of it so I can push it around to help align it back up to re-install it. My dealer installed it for me so I do not know how hard it was to install. If you do a search for Installing a Bradco backhoe you will get to a thread from JohnInCA who ended up installing a 758C. He has some pictures in that thread also.
Scott

 

[Red_Dog]

Hi Scott.
Thanks for the info on the JohninCA thread. I had not found that one in my searches. We are hopefully getting our TC40D and FEL later this week, but the backhoe is several weeks away. It's nice to see a picture of it. Have you used your hoe very much yet? Glad to hear that you do not have to remove your 3Pt hitch arms, as we will be removing the hoe occasionally for a box blade. Matt.

 

[Rowski]

Here is the <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=implement&Number=101294&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1>link to the thread</A>, the NH stuff is near the end.

Here is JohninCA's <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/5-113075-P2080006.jpg>sub frame kit</A>. As in the linked picture the vertical piece of steel (that runs even with the seam of the concrete) is the "rear" part of the subframe that mounts into a "mouth" just below the draw bar. On the right side of the photo the brackets that are sticking up mount on the frame of the tractor where the loader mounts to the frame. The "stuff" in the middle (between the two points described) is the "mouth" and it's mount.

 

[Rowski]

Attached is a picture of the front mount on the right side. A pin on the right and left side hold the subframe in place. I'm not sure how your pins will come but mine are ground into a blunt point so you can drive it in with a hammer. On my NH 2120 I'm lucky in that there is an elongated hole on the floor boards (for clutch and brake pedals) that I can see the two front mounts while backing up into the hoe when hooking up. So basically I can make micro corrections by turning the wheel while backing up. But I still need to be perpendicular for both sides to line up. I find this to be the hardest part.

 

[Rowski]

Attached is a picture of the rear mount. I call it a "mouth" becasue no pins or bolts hold it in. It is mounted below the draw bar (where all the dirt is in my photo).


Hooking up the hoe:

I first back up over the subframe close enought to get my hoses from the hoe hooked up to the tractor. I then lower the stabilizers to lift the sub frame of the ground. I then use the boom cylinder to level the subframe. I get the subframe to the approximate height of the mouth and front mounts. Then I back the tractor up till I'm about 1/2" aways from my mounts making slight steering adjustments. I can guage the distance from the tractor by looking through my holes in the floor. I get off and look, just to make sure and adjust as needed. Get on the tractor and back it in all the way. Then I adjust the height of the subframe for the front mounts by the boom cylinder, put in the pins. The only hand tools I use to hook it up is a hammer on the front pins. The only thing I did care for is the backhoe is "loose" in the rear mount. I've used mine very hard and haven't had any problem.

Hope this helps.

 

[Hoeman00]

When I put the Woods 7500 on a Kubota L2900 I
backed up close and put on PTO pump.
Then used boom and dipper stick to lift back end of
hoe and push forward to engage the 'mouth'.
Woods has 2 pins that go down thru mouth to lock hoe
in.
Then raise boom and front of subframe will go up to
position to put pins in.
Using the hoe to position itself lets u adjust it if
tractor isn't in correct position.