Tx Jim
New Member
Due to the fact I don't own or repair NH hay equipment therefore I haven't read Mike10's numerous NH repair procedures but I'll venture to guess if RancherGuy asks his question on Hay Talk he'll get an answer to his baler problem!
NH Round Baler Density problem
- Thread starter RancherGuy
- Start date
Due to the fact I don't own or repair NH hay equipment therefore I haven't read Mike10's numerous NH repair procedures but I'll venture to guess if RancherGuy asks his question on Hay Talk he'll get an answer to his baler problem!
Rustyiron
Super Member
The round bailers that I've been around use what's called an "accumulator" in the hyd. system. It's a small "tank" looking thing usually with a pressure gage hooked to it. It acts like a shock absorber in the particular hyd. Circuit its plumbed into. It maintains a consistent pressure to the belts as the bale grows for the same bale density from the middle to the outside, or is supposed to.
I would look into charging it or some other problem, not the cylinder seals that were mentioned, esp if you do not see signs of leaked hyd. oil.
I would look into charging it or some other problem, not the cylinder seals that were mentioned, esp if you do not see signs of leaked hyd. oil.
5030
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he found the answer and I also gave it to him in as much as I run NH round balers.
5030
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Went out to the tractor shop and pulled the fitting and gauge. The flat faced fitting is a Parker Number PD242 and a WIKA filled gauge 0-3000 PSI. The threaded end of the Parker flat face fitting will accept a male hydraulic hose fitting.
Far as the previous post about an 'accumulator'. There is none other than the hydraulic fluid in the density cylinders.
Adding / changing fluid in part:
Connect a tractor hydraulic system with compatible oil to the QD fitting (see above).
Turn the relief valve counterclockwise to it's lowest setting.
Use the tractor hydraulic system to extend and retrace the cylinder(s) several times to purge air from the system.
Place the tractor hydraulic system in FLOAT position to remove pressure from the system.
Remove the hydraulic hose and adjust the relief valve (black knob at the bottom of the cylinder(s) to set required pressure (sing a gauge on the fitting and reading the pressure or by checking a bale.
Cycle the tailgate several times. If there is pressure in the system WITH THE TAILGATE CLOSED bleed thr system via the fitting at the top (flat faced coupler). I crack the hex fitting below the elbow to let any air out. recommend fluids aren't what I run. I run Chevron AW THC Synthetic. Don't seem to matter other than not using any cheap 333 fluid because it won't prolong seal life, it's obsolete.
Hope that helps
Far as the previous post about an 'accumulator'. There is none other than the hydraulic fluid in the density cylinders.
Adding / changing fluid in part:
Connect a tractor hydraulic system with compatible oil to the QD fitting (see above).
Turn the relief valve counterclockwise to it's lowest setting.
Use the tractor hydraulic system to extend and retrace the cylinder(s) several times to purge air from the system.
Place the tractor hydraulic system in FLOAT position to remove pressure from the system.
Remove the hydraulic hose and adjust the relief valve (black knob at the bottom of the cylinder(s) to set required pressure (sing a gauge on the fitting and reading the pressure or by checking a bale.
Cycle the tailgate several times. If there is pressure in the system WITH THE TAILGATE CLOSED bleed thr system via the fitting at the top (flat faced coupler). I crack the hex fitting below the elbow to let any air out. recommend fluids aren't what I run. I run Chevron AW THC Synthetic. Don't seem to matter other than not using any cheap 333 fluid because it won't prolong seal life, it's obsolete.
Hope that helps
OP
RancherGuy
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Thanks for your input on this and your following comments and notes.
Adjusting is not a problem. The operator's manual explains: with gate closed, set relief value. Lift the gate - the pressure gauge should indicate pressure. Opening the gate extends (pulls) the hydraulic cylinder just like a growing bale does. Closing gate should be zero pressure. Repeat as required.
5030
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Also, keep in mind that the coil springs apply pressure as well and are adjustable. NH says as the belts wear in, you can adjust the tension to eliminate belt slippage during initial bale formation, I've never adjusted mine but what I did do was install a set of infeed discs. They allow the baler to run a bit easier but they do scuff the outside of the bales a bit. I'm not into bale astehtics so I don't care and I don't believe the steers do either.
Goof luck, you have the information you need now, glad to help.
OP
RancherGuy
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Thanks for that detail! Looks like it is described as a "test/diagnostic" fitting. It is not a standard 1/4 flatface fitting. The 1/4 fitting uses a 16mm male, while this is a 12mm male. The $40 PD242 coupling I ordered is labeled as "1/8" Body Size, 1/4"-18 NPTF Thread Size". Interesting.
OP
RancherGuy
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To provide closure on my end - I now have properly operating density. Here is a summary of what I did:
1. Replaced 1/4 hydraulic line between front gauge and cylinder. It is 15 yrs old and I didn't want to mess with a failure in the field.
2. Replaced all seals inside the single hydraulic cylinder using a complete kit from the dealer.
3. Connected tractor's hydraulic to the special flatface fitting at the pressure gauge.
4. Cycled the baler several times between full pressure & release.
5. Assuming I had most or all air out of the density system, I disconnected from the tractor.
6. Screwed in the adjustment knob at the base of the density cylinder.
7. Opened the tailgate and noted the gauge pressure. It was a bit higher than I wanted, so I backed off the adjustment knob until it was where I wanted.
I have made over 100 bales and they again look great!
1. Replaced 1/4 hydraulic line between front gauge and cylinder. It is 15 yrs old and I didn't want to mess with a failure in the field.
2. Replaced all seals inside the single hydraulic cylinder using a complete kit from the dealer.
3. Connected tractor's hydraulic to the special flatface fitting at the pressure gauge.
4. Cycled the baler several times between full pressure & release.
5. Assuming I had most or all air out of the density system, I disconnected from the tractor.
6. Screwed in the adjustment knob at the base of the density cylinder.
7. Opened the tailgate and noted the gauge pressure. It was a bit higher than I wanted, so I backed off the adjustment knob until it was where I wanted.
I have made over 100 bales and they again look great!