NH TC40DA just bought ?????

[ND teacher]

Just bought a used NH TC40 DA I have some questions
Where is the dipstick for the HYDRO, I found the dipsticks for the Engine oil, hydraulic oil in the back, the pwr steering, and front diff. Is there a dipstick or sight level for the Hydrostatice drive? I dont have an owners manual so i am in the process of getting one, and i used the tractor last night to push snow.

When i pushed snow last night the oil temp gauge was 3/4 of the way up on the green. Still in the green but i wasnt sure if that is the normal operating range. I am a little concerned when i use it this summer when its not -10 if it will climb up into the red zone. I ran it at 2000-2200 rpms

Diff lock does not snap into place is that the way they are? On the larger tractors the diff lock was a toggle switch. I was hoping it would snap into place, i have to reach back with my left foot and practically stand on it. Or is something out of adjustment

I do have a leak underneath which i did not catch in the pics, right where the drive shaft for the fwa joins into the rear of the tractor, i was told they fix all oil leaks i am going to call them i know a leak out is a leak in. It cost me $1000 to get it here so i really cant send it back for repairs maybe they will cost share with me on it(I am a little optimistic, but realistic buyer be ware)

Not sure what to do with service right now? I was going to have oil samles pulled and was suggested to do that then change the oil and run it then redo oil samples kind of costly around $200 to have them do the samples or i could save $45 if i draw the samples myself.
Should i change the oils now
Should a person use NH oils and air filters, oil filters etc?

Other than these questions I love the tractor, Loader is a little slow i had it sitting in the garage at 42 degrees for about 4 hours before i ran it outside so i was hoping the speed on the loader would pick up. But then again i am use to using a $40,000 s250 bobcat wide open so anything would be slow compared to that

 

[TO_Bud]

ND I've got the generation before your DA but I'm assuming most things are the same on my 40D as yours. If I miss quote then I will soon be corrected by the vast collective here at TBN.

The hydraulic systems have a common sump so checking the rear dipstick is the correct location for that.

My temp gauge is water temp, thermostatically controlled and I'm assuming yours is as well so ambient air temp shouldn't compromise the cooling as long as the cooling system is not otherwise impaired.

The diff lock is spring loaded and requires constant down pressure to stay engaged, a little awkward I agree, but it is what it is.

The hydro pump is only rated at 9.8 gpm, quite a bit less than you are used to so this may explain your description of slow loader just understand that slow is a relative observation.

As far as oils go, any good diesel rated crankcase oil is suffient, I run 10-40 full syn in mine. It seemed like my oil light stayed illuminated longer than I liked when I was running the 20-50 Rotella dino oil. The hydraulic oil needs to meet NH134 standards and there are several brands out there that do, in this case I stay with the NH brand for my own peace of mind, and the price is not much different. I would contact your seller and see if they could forward any maintenance info they have on the tractor, no sense changing oil if not needed, but if you don't know just change 'em out. Do get yourself an operators manual to help out with maintenance schedules.

Good luck
Bud

 

[jinman]

TO_Bud answered most of your questions, so I don't have much to add. As far as the FEL goes, you need to have the engine at 2000 rpm or above for the best response. It will be a little slower compared to the Bobcat, but mine is plenty fast for me.

I would suggest that you don't use an oil unless it meets NH Multi-G 134D specs. There are cheaper oils that meet the older Ford/NH MC 134C spec that may not be suitable for your tractor because of the HST transmission. You can find oils that are called "hydraulic oil" and meet the 134 spec for less than $40 per 5 gallon pail. I don't use those. I look for oil that has anti-wear characteristics and is a multi-grade "transmission oil." These will range more in the $60+ per 5 gallon pail. If you buy your oil from your NH dealer, it will be a little more expensive, but you know you are getting the right stuff. A few dollars more can ensure that you are getting the right oil. It does make a difference in how your tractor operates, especially in cooler weather. In ND, you may even want to look into the NH F200 synthetic oil, but it is about $175 per 5-gal pail. It is good down to -40F and up to +120F, so it is exceptional in quality and exceptional in $$$ also.

Multi-G 134D is the correct oil for more than your hydraulics. It's also for the power steering reservoir and front axle.

What kind of leak do you have at the rear of the 4wd driveline? Is it a seep (just oily residue), a drip, or something else? If it is just a wetting of the area without a significant drip, I'd make sure all the bolts on the drop box/gearbox are tight and not worry with it. Your call, of course. . . .

If you lift the hood and look on the bottom side, there is a chart for servicing your tractor with all the hours/service intervals printed out. It's very handy when you don't have an Owner's Manual.

I don't know if I would be all that concerned with running tests on the fluids. If everything looks okay and is not milky with moisture, I'd call it good. Engine oil in a diesel turns dark very quickly, but an engine oil change with filter is one of the cheaper things you can do to ensure you have good oil in the engine. If the tractor starts and runs well, I don't know that I'd spend the money on tests. That money would be better spent on filters and fluids for future maintenance in my opinion.

Since you are in a very cold area, you need to be aware that the HST filters for these tractors come in two varieties. One is ruggedized and made for higher pressures in cold climates. There have been some problems with filter blowouts (gaskets blown and leaking) in the past during winter operation. You might ask your dealer about the rugged HST filter. The HST filter is the one on the left in front of the brake pedals. The main hydraulic filter is on the right side by the rear tire.

The differential lock on our tractors is designed to stay engaged after you press it as long as the drivetrain is under load. When the drivetrain senses normal operation without a load, it will automatically disengage the diff lock. So, when you need the lock, just depress it and it will operate and disengage by itself. Don't engage at high speeds. I like to hold down the pedal while applying torque with the HST pedal and then lift my foot off the diff lock lever. As the tractor pulls out of the tough spot, I can hear the diff lock disengage by itself. Yes, the diff lock is in a hard spot to reach, but that ensures I don't step on it by mistake.

 

[ND teacher]

Thanks Bud
First thing on my list is to get an operators manual, looked at NH website and they are about $35 i was thinking of getting the repair manual, but im not sure if that is something i would need, I am going with the op manual first to see how much detail and info is their.

Called the dealer on the service records they have none, We talked about the oil leak and they said get it fixed we were unaware of the leak and we will help you with it or did they say they would take care of it I am hoping a pinion seal?

OP maunal should tell me how many gallons of oil the hydro takes so that I will know the cost so i dont end up fileing chapter 11. Unless someone knows off hand.
Oil analysis???

 

[Jerry/MT]

Just bought a used NH TC40 DA I have some questions
Where is the dipstick for the HYDRO, I found the dipsticks for the Engine oil, hydraulic oil in the back, the pwr steering, and front diff. Is there a dipstick or sight level for the Hydrostatice drive? I dont have an owners manual so i am in the process of getting one, and i used the tractor last night to push snow.

When i pushed snow last night the oil temp gauge was 3/4 of the way up on the green. Still in the green but i wasnt sure if that is the normal operating range. I am a little concerned when i use it this summer when its not -10 if it will climb up into the red zone. I ran it at 2000-2200 rpms

Diff lock does not snap into place is that the way they are? On the larger tractors the diff lock was a toggle switch. I was hoping it would snap into place, i have to reach back with my left foot and practically stand on it. Or is something out of adjustment

I do have a leak underneath which i did not catch in the pics, right where the drive shaft for the fwa joins into the rear of the tractor, i was told they fix all oil leaks i am going to call them i know a leak out is a leak in. It cost me $1000 to get it here so i really cant send it back for repairs maybe they will cost share with me on it(I am a little optimistic, but realistic buyer be ware)

Not sure what to do with service right now? I was going to have oil samles pulled and was suggested to do that then change the oil and run it then redo oil samples kind of costly around $200 to have them do the samples or i could save $45 if i draw the samples myself.
Should i change the oils now
Should a person use NH oils and air filters, oil filters etc?

Other than these questions I love the tractor, Loader is a little slow i had it sitting in the garage at 42 degrees for about 4 hours before i ran it outside so i was hoping the speed on the loader would pick up. But then again i am use to using a $40,000 s250 bobcat wide open so anything would be slow compared to that

Unless your tractor was just serviced by the seller (minimal service being defined as engine oil change, and water separator and fuel filter change) I would change these at a minumum. You're in ND and if you have fuel system problems it will most like be due to water in the fuel that freezes on the water separator and fuel filter elements. You don't need that to happen. Fill the tank with local winter fuel and try to keep it full. Put in some additive like PS white to help with water dispersal.
Check the air filter and clean it off if it's dirty.

Make sure that you have coolant at 50/50 antifreeze/water in the radiator and add an additive package. You can replace the coolant later.

You've all ready checked the transhydraulic fluid but check the EWD and final drives (front and back) and top up as necessary. Grease all the FEL fittings.

Service manuals and owner's manuals can be had for reasonable prices on ebay and elsewhere.

I bought a TD95D with an 820 TL loader in mid-November and I'm going through this process right now. The weather's been bad so it's difficult to work on it. I'v ehad several rundowns caused by freezing in the water separator and I've found my fuel tank is contaminated with water probably as a result of the PO fuel tanks. You have to expect these nusance type things whe you buy a tractor off a private party 1500 miles away and you reflect that in the price you pay. But when it happens at -5F and you are away from your shop it's frustrating. I pulled the water separator off an dtook it to the shop and heated it with a heat gun to thaw it out and remove the water. I've siphoned some water/fuel off the bottom of the tank to get some water out of there, added PS white to disperse water so the filters will take it out and replaced the fuel filter and the water separator and I drain the separator before and after every use. That's why I stongly recommend you deal with the fuel system especially when you are operating in winter conditions.

Good luck with your new tractor!

 

[ND teacher]

What i did so far was check engine oil, hydraulic oil, greased tractor and loader, Checked front axle oil,not sure where rear level is located at. Without the owners manual i dont know what to add to it, i would assume 80-90weight but im not taking any chances, and the dipstick has no markings on it.
Fuel filters and water seperators i dont want to mess with unless i have the manual as well i dont want to get into a situation without having the manual to reference to. They added the fuel additives before they hauled it, cause i told them dont fill the tank unless it is number one fuel so the put additives in it.
Air cleaner and precleaner i check precleaner was dirty, couldnt see light through it(i hear thats not a preferred method to check anymore) i lightly tapped it in my hand and on the side of the tire. It was already dented up on a few spots. The two filters at the farm store here were about $60 dont know if i should try NH cause im sure they are higher yet, or is this an area that should not be skimpt on? I will definetly replace with a new one but it would probably be 2 weeks before they could get one in. Im sure NH has one on the shelf.
The hood has a -45 written in chalk so i assume the Antifreeze is good but i suppose i should check anyways

 

[wrenchguy]

OP maunal should tell me how many gallons of oil the hydro takes so that I will know the cost so i dont end up fileing chapter 11. Unless someone knows off hand.

8.2 gallons is the amount pumped in at the factory.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks Bud
First thing on my list is to get an operators manual, looked at NH website and they are about $35 i was thinking of getting the repair manual, but im not sure if that is something i would need, I am going with the op manual first to see how much detail and info is their.

Called the dealer on the service records they have none, We talked about the oil leak and they said get it fixed we were unaware of the leak and we will help you with it or did they say they would take care of it I am hoping a pinion seal?

OP maunal should tell me how many gallons of oil the hydro takes so that I will know the cost so i dont end up fileing chapter 11. Unless someone knows off hand.
Oil analysis???

Have you looked at www.tractordata.com? Some info on your machine might be there.

 

[ND teacher]

yeah i look at tractor data, i spaced it! Sorry

 

[djradz]

As we're all piling on our two cents, here's mine.

Congrats - you've acquired a nice tractor that should give you years/decades of great service. Enjoy it!

Change the air filters, especially if damaged. I've had fantastic success with simply washing the outer filter in a strong solution of liquid detergent and very warm water, but if you're not comfortable with doing so, replace it soon.

Nothing on the tractor uses 80-90w. Only thing that thick (well actually thicker) is the grease that you've already said you've used.

Due to slow hydraulics, I've switched my hydro fluid to Amsoil synthetic. As others note, in ND you probably should at least be using a multi-viscosity fluid.

For the engine oil, I long ago switched to using Shell Rotella T-Synthetic 5w-40. At about $20-$22 for a gallon, I don't think you could do better. Tractor starts much easier and oil light goes out almost instantly.

Although I'd only call my differential lock on my 40D a little awkward to use, on my old Ford/NH 1720 I use to have to litterly "step on" the lever too. It wasn't this way when I first got the tractor (new) and I always attributed this to the fact that I believed that I had bent something or otherwise damaged something internally from trying to engage the lock when the wheels were spinning. Maybe something similar has occured with yours.