No 2210 Loader Float? Snowblower instead?

[cadblaster]

Well this is the first post I've made here since I moved in to my new house back in August, and took delivery of my 2210, 62C MMM, 210 FEL (53" bucket), and Frontier 40" Tiller.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I was moving a bunch of snow around this past weekend with the loader, and there just doesn't seem to be a float position for the loader. Well this really isn't the first time I've noticed this, I've moved mountains of mulch and piles of dirt, but those operations were much less critical than moving snow. Am I just missing it? I haven't gone back to double check the manual.

Moving snow with the loader is definately putting a new edge on the bucket, and who knows what it is doing to the driveway. Fortunately, right now, it's not a big problem, 'cause the builder owes us a topcoat in the spring.

I am seriously considering getting the 2-stage blower for the tractor. I really like how a blower handles snow. No huge piles, it just kind of disappears. My neighbor, who we share a portion of the driveway has a single stage blower for his 285 garder tractor. He moved a bunch with it, but the heavy stuff we got on friday was definately putting a strain on his small machine.
I just got the pricing yesturday for the single and 2-stage blower for the 2210.

I don't live in snow country, I'm in MD. Consequently, I'm really trying to weigh the benefits vs. cost. I've seen plenty of big snows and some winters with almost none at all. I don't want a walk behind blower, as I really don't want another gas engine to maintain.
Help convince me.
How tough/easy is it to install/remove?
How good is it for small snows ~2"?
How does it "ride" on the pavement? i.e. will it scuff up or tear up a driveway?

Pictures? Anyone got pictures they can post of their 2210 with the 2-stage blower?

 

[mhalla]

<font color="green">Cadblaster, are you saying you had the loader in float position but the float wasn't working?

Moving the lever fully forward, it should lock into "float" position. Just give it a quick hard push to get past a slight detent that you will feel. It takes a little getting used to.

This is covered on page 24 of my 210 loader manual.

Mike</font>

 

[fgross335_2210]

When I move snow with my 2210 I use the float position and it works fine - as in the other post push the joystick past the "down" position, should float just fine.

I have a buddy at work with the 2-stage on his 4010. He runs a back blade with the blower. On small snows he angles the blade and makes a pass down each side of the driveway pushing the remaining snow to the middle. Then one pass down the middle with the blower and he's all done. I think the backblade/blower would be a great combination.

What is the price difference between a singlestage thrower and 2-stage blower? If you don't get big snows the single stage might do the trick for a bit less cash.

 

[bigpete]

Cadblaster,

I don't know if you have considered it, but the 54 front blade with hydraulics is a lightening fast solution to snows under 2 feet. Just push your first run a few feet out into your lawn. The 2210 in 4WD is awesome with the blade. You should have seen me last Presidents Day here in Delaware /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif The full set up with hydraulics is around $1,000

As far as damage goes, I use a sqeegee on my 54 blade and have never so much as harmed a blade of grass or scuffed my sealed asphault. Deere sells the kit for around $50 but you can buy a cow mat at Tractor supply for $40 and longer bolts. Just sandwich the rubber strip between moldboard and and cutting edge. With the cow mat, you'll have a lifetime supply of rubber sqeegees and a slowly shrinking fatigue mat for your shop for about 20 years /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The float setting is there, it just takes a firm nudge forward into the detent position while you are lowering your bucket.

 

[rmonio]

Pete -

Are you using the mat in context with the HD bucket's removable cutting edge? (you mentioned longer bolts and wrapping it).

This is a good idea - as I do scrap my blacktop a bit in spots.

-Bob

 

[TerryinMD]

cadblaster,

Here's what you should try to do....

1. Raise your FEL an inch or two above the surface of your driveway ( with the cutting edge parallel to the ground).

2. Slap (not a nudge, a fast motion) the joystick all the way forward into the detent position. You should see the blade drop to the ground.

3. You're in a float position. Have a ball moving the snow. Just remember to position the cutting edge properly or you may cut into the driveaway or your yard.

It takes a bit of practice to understand how to float the blade. Once you know how to do it, you will become more effective with your FEL.

Terry

 

[JASTN70D]

Cadblaster

I use the 54 front blade with hydraulics on my 4100 and it works great. 2000 feet of drive all gravel. I am in NE Ohio we get some good size snows. I never tried the squeegee I wonder if it would leave more gravel in the drive.?

John

 

[bigpete]

Bob,

I was referring to the 54" plow, but it sounds like it would work with the HD bucket's removable cutting edge. Basically, you could take the edge off the bucket and trace it's outline along the edge of the rubber mat. Add at least an inch of width to the outline and cut the rubber mat with a very-sharp utility knife (hard on the forearms). Then lay the bucket cutting edge on the cut strip of rubber and mark where the bolt holes are. Drill through the rubber and attach with longer bolts. I used locking nuts and only sandwiched the rubber until it was compressed enough to begin to deform.

There may be some icy conditions where you wish you were scraping with steel but you will save your pavement and turf from any major gouging.

 

[Wildman1]

I had to call my dealer to find out how to float. I thought I was pushing the lever fully forward but wasn't. Then, when I hit the stick fairly hard it snapped into float.

Here's a pic of my 47" blower on the 2210.

 

[cadblaster]

Wow, what a response!

I admit again, I didn't look in the manual about the float position. though I've used the loader so much I thought I'd have it figured out by now. I'll definately give it a try to see if it works.

The price difference between the single stage, and 2-stage blower was "only" $300. Or in the scheme of things $2500 vs. $2800. Seemed like the way to go.

I did consider getting the 54" blade. The thing with the blade and the FEL is that the snow piles up. With a blower, that problem goes away. In this respect, I don't think there is as much advantage of a blade over the FEL. Granted you can angle the blade, but I sure can push a lot of snow with the bucket.

Like I said, I'm in MD, so we can get winters w/out any snow (rare) to really big snows (more often it seems). I got a total of 12" this past weekend, 7" on Friday, and another 5+ on Saturday. Who knows what is yet to come for the rest of the winter.

I figure that over the next 10 to 15 years a blower may not pay for itself in $$ but it won't sit idle either.

BTW, How hard/easy/quick is the attachment/removal process? The FEL is a breeze, does it compare?

 

[Wildman1]

Cadblaster..
I had a Craftsman 20hp 2WD garden tractor with a 42" single stage blower and it did a great job. My 47" JD on the 2210 is the 2 stage and works better, of course, but the Craftsman did the job.

I personally think, based upon my experience with the single stage Craftsman that a single stage unit would do you fine, especially considering your locale and your higher performance tractor. Blades aren't my preference at all. I do a better job in the same time as my neighbor using his Western truck mounted snowplow...and he finally admitted it!

Yeah, all these implements and the tractor are pricey..but..I'll never have to buy another tractor.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

You may want to consider a rear 3 point snowblower. I have a Puma 54 inch unit I paid $1000 for it in May 02. Last winter with 2 feet of snow I had no problem moving the snow with the BX 2200. I have a FEL and the combination of a rear snowblower and FEL works great. The only down side is you have to back up with the rear blower. The up side is it is cheaper then a front blower by about half. I know the machine and color is wrong for this board, but here is what I am taking about, see attached. The cab is a golf cart cover I made up for $125. You do not want to snow blow without some sort of a cab.

Puma Site web page

 

[bigpete]

I would be surprised to even FIND a blade in Chugiak, Alaska. Bring that blower to the Mid-atlantic and I'll race you with my 54 blade /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[djsch]

Cadblaster,
I have a 2210 with a 47" 2 stage snowblower. You can see it on the first posting of the "2210 Club" thread. I also bought the loader. Both use the float position. Having tried both for moving snow already, I recommend the blower. I can blow the snow 40-60 feet away and as you said its just gone, no piles, no drifting. And its MUCH faster. The only marks on my driveway are where my ashpalt contractor put too much crown on it (and ones I made with the loader before I learned how to run it properly. I just have to be careful not to straddle that hump and all is well - same problem with the loader. Only problem is if you have to blow upwind or the neighbors are real close. Then you have to lower the discharge chute but doing so will let you place the snow wherever you want.

As for removing it... It doesn't take long but there are 3 pieces to take off before you can put the loader on. First you disconnect 2 hoses, disconnect the driveshaft, and pull two pins and back away from the blower. Then you pull 2 more pins and disconnect 2 more hoses and lift off the quick hitch. Finally you disconnect the front PTO driveshaft, pull one more L.O.N.G pin and you're done. It takes about 5 minutes. The hardest part is crawling under to disconnect the front PTO driveshaft.

So far I've moved wet snow (almost slush) and "normal" snow and it works well in all conditions. The skids are easily adjusted (with a wrench) so you can set how "clean" it will be behind you. You can add some downpressure if there is any tendency to ride up. Last, there's power to spare! So far I haven't been able to make the engine act like its actually working even when pushing so much snow that it spills over the top of the blower! Also, in tight spots where there's no place to blow it, you can still use it like a blade to push a pile somewhere else and then start the blower up and make it disappear. Kinda like a blade but not quite as functional...

Hope this is helpful,
Dave