No reverse

[PierreV]

Again, according to the operation manual, and the dealer I bought it from, you can shift between gears without using the clutch, however, they recommend coming to a complete stop before moving the shifter. The shifter mounts on top of the transmission; actually it mounts on top of a hydraulic module, piggy-back onto the tranny. the only moving parts are, the shifter, a fork and spring assembly. There's a pinion that comes out of the module and hooks up to the fork. Some minor play and wear in fork link, but not enough to cause this problem. Hope this helps.

 

[clemsonfor]

Again, according to the operation manual, and the dealer I bought it from, you can shift between gears without using the clutch, however, they recommend coming to a complete stop before moving the shifter. The shifter mounts on top of the transmission; actually it mounts on top of a hydraulic module, piggy-back onto the tranny. the only moving parts are, the shifter, a fork and spring assembly. There's a pinion that comes out of the module and hooks up to the fork. Some minor play and wear in fork link, but not enough to cause this problem. Hope this helps.

I hope someone has some thoughts for you. Seems this is the only serious powershift problem i have at least heard of on here in a few years and some longer than that. Maybe its not serious if someone knows what to tweek? Most of the problems have been crud in the ball valve things and MJ Peterson and or California i think are usually on on those, but the symptoms of those are usually slow and slow to engage gears. We usually dont hear of no gear.

 

[rmully]

I have a powershift on a YM2020 and it is true that you can come to a complete stop and shift it into reverse without the clutch. I do it all the time.

 

[clemsonfor]

Rmully, i can see comming to a complete stop then shifting, but from the description that CarDoc pointed out, the "shift on the Fly" sounds like he was running foward and then slamming back into reverse with still some foward motion. Kind of like we all do with our hydrostat mowers where your moving foward and quickly go to reverse and spin the tires due to a bit of foward movement.

 

[Car Doc]

I have a powershift on a YM2020 and it is true that you can come to a complete stop and shift it into reverse without the clutch. I do it all the time.

Bingo that works!

Timing is what that takes and say the bucket is full and the tractor has stopped moving into the dirt pile I do it too but not often because I am usually changing from 2nd to 4th in the main box at that exact second to move the dirt faster to my job after digging it up that takes the clutch down to do that.

I prefer to have my foot on the brake and clutch when I swap forward for reverse thats just me the trany is not designed to do it there isn't a torque converter or any mechanical slip coupling on them they just shift positively and there isn't any safety device I dont believe either.

 

[Roonabeck]

Again, according to the operation manual, and the dealer I bought it from, you can shift between gears without using the clutch, however, they recommend coming to a complete stop before moving the shifter. The shifter mounts on top of the transmission; actually it mounts on top of a hydraulic module, piggy-back onto the tranny. the only moving parts are, the shifter, a fork and spring assembly. There's a pinion that comes out of the module and hooks up to the fork. Some minor play and wear in fork link, but not enough to cause this problem. Hope this helps.

Yeah, once you've accidentally gone straight from 1 to R without stopping first, the tractor will firmly remind you not to do that.

When my 1510 stopped going into reverse, it was because the pin that the shifter pivots on had worn enough that it didn't push the linkage quite far enough anymore. But at that point, it would still work most of the time. Only once in a while I'd hit reverse and it wouldn't respond. There are others on the forum that have had the same problem. New pin fixed it; the old one was visibly worn when I took it out.

 

[PierreV]

Thanks very much for your advice on your previous experience. Your reply makes the most sense of all and directly relates to my specific issue.
I do believe that I may have possible wear on the pin you mentioned, however, the pins is very tight in the fork assembly and I did not want to force it out without doing more damage than necessary. I didn't know if it had a set pre-load that prevented it from coming off. Did you have to punch it out, or was yours easier in being removed ? Also, where did you buy another pin from?
I think also that the shift lever may be hindered by the control box or fairing assembly not allowing it to travel all the way down, so I thought about possibly filing it down some to allow more travel. What do you think?
Thanks very much for your input, it was very helpful!

 

[Roonabeck]

My shifter assembly is probably different than yours; the pin in question was part number 18 in this picture. I called Hoye about it and they just gave me the dimensions of the pin and I replaced it with a bolt (5mm diameter) and nut. As you can see, there's just an R-clip that held my old pin on. It came right off.

If your connection is sloppy indicating wear of that same pin, you should be able to move the shifter toward 1 or R and see the thing it is supposed to move doesn't start moving immediately.

 

[PierreV]

Thanks for your information; This helps a lot! my lever assembly is very similar, except the pin in question is installed in reverse of the picture and held together with a washer and cotter pin.

I will look at replacing with a similar size bolt and fastener.

Thanks again for your response.
Harry