Been using a local farmer's 10' disc to till some food plots. The disc has smooth (non-notched) discs and it seems to have problems cutting through vegetation. Would a disk with notched discs work any better? I want to buy a King Kutter 6.5' disc and it has both smooth and notched discs. Thoughts?
Notched or Smooth Discs?
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Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Notched blades will help....some....Weight will help....more....provided the disc is up to the task.
flusher
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Weight and high ground speed are the first considerations. My old 6.5 ft Towner offset pull disc has smooth discs and is pretty heavy itself (they used a lot of iron back 70 years ago). I added about 500 lb of extra weight (four 120 lb concrete weights) and run it 5-6 mph with my Mahindra 5525 to get it to bite decently.
bjr
Veteran Member
I've the 6-1/2' Kk disc and wish I had the notched all the way around, just for the reasons you talk about. I'll probably get 10 new notched discs and put them on the front and put the older notched on the back. bjr
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Notched blades wear faster (due to there being less metal on the outer edge) They can shatter easier than solid disc blades. When buying NEW blades, you'll usually find various gauges (thickness) offered @ different price points. If using notched blades, get the thickest you can find. Just look at it as extra weight....
Disc too slow and you get no soil action. Disc too fast and the disc tries to float on the surface. Find a speed that works and stay there (usually 4 to 5-1/2mph works well)
Don't go overboard with setting the gangs to fully aggressive angles. In the right conditions, that'll work well. In hard pack, that'll cause the disc blades to scratch along on the surface at times.
Weight is the key to a disc digging in hard ground. Many newer "economy" disc's simply don't have enough built in weight to do the job.
A simple change of blades isn't going to make huge gains.
Disc too slow and you get no soil action. Disc too fast and the disc tries to float on the surface. Find a speed that works and stay there (usually 4 to 5-1/2mph works well)
Don't go overboard with setting the gangs to fully aggressive angles. In the right conditions, that'll work well. In hard pack, that'll cause the disc blades to scratch along on the surface at times.
Weight is the key to a disc digging in hard ground. Many newer "economy" disc's simply don't have enough built in weight to do the job.
A simple change of blades isn't going to make huge gains.
MMagis
Veteran Member
Not much can be added to what’s already been said, and I would agree that the discs themselves probably aren’t the biggest issue. Notched on front and smooth in the rear is pretty standard for smaller discs. Just about any smaller disc is going to have some trouble breaking through heavy sod. Even the larger (18’+) transports discs would have a little trouble, and they’re build considerable heavier than any 3pt or drag disc. Along with finding the correct speed, you’ll find that there’s a perfect set up for your disc for each condition. I have an old 6’ 3pt Dearborn disc with smooth blades all around. I can disc up last years field (now over gown with grass and weeds) and with a max of two passes have it ready to plant even the smallest seeds. Usually one pass is enough and I don’t add any weight at all. For me, the key is setting the top link as long as possible and the aggressive angle of the gangs. The rear of my disc isn’t more than 6” off the ground when I lift it up. Anyone who has some trouble with a 3pt disc cutting vegetation could give this a shot before adding weight. I’ve added weight in the past to an old Ford disk, and over time ended up breaking things.
foggy1111
Elite Member
I've got a KK box frame disc with notched blades all around. Fairly heavy for it's 5.5' width. I use it mostly for busting up new ground.....after getting the logs, rocks and stumps (which I can find) removed. It sees some rough duty for this purpose. After I get my ground broken and free of derbis I prefer to use my tiller set at about 3"......as I like the one-pass and your done approach.
Back on new ground: Because this ground is pretty rough.....I cannot go very fast on the first pass or two (nor would I if I could). After getting the land leveled out a bit and finding most of the "buried treasures" I can pick up the speed a bit and it does a better job. The notches seem to cut trash pretty good. I've broken a couple of blades....one when hitting a tree and another over a buried rock. I'm mostly operating in tight quarters with forest all around.....so I like the smaller width disc (think price and nimble....and weight per blade). I'm not sure of the gauge of the blades....but I assume they are light duty.
For food plotting....I doubt you will do enough acres for wear to be a big consideration.
BTW.....I'm curious to your tractor size. You have borrowed a 10 footer from your neighbor......can you pull it when set agressively? The size you mention buying is considerably less width. Not sure if your thinking primary tillage or use it following a plow, etc.
Back on new ground: Because this ground is pretty rough.....I cannot go very fast on the first pass or two (nor would I if I could). After getting the land leveled out a bit and finding most of the "buried treasures" I can pick up the speed a bit and it does a better job. The notches seem to cut trash pretty good. I've broken a couple of blades....one when hitting a tree and another over a buried rock. I'm mostly operating in tight quarters with forest all around.....so I like the smaller width disc (think price and nimble....and weight per blade). I'm not sure of the gauge of the blades....but I assume they are light duty.
For food plotting....I doubt you will do enough acres for wear to be a big consideration.
BTW.....I'm curious to your tractor size. You have borrowed a 10 footer from your neighbor......can you pull it when set agressively? The size you mention buying is considerably less width. Not sure if your thinking primary tillage or use it following a plow, etc.
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