Notes on draw bar pasture shredder.

[LC '92]

I have used a 3 point mounted 6' Bush Hog pasture shredder behind my MF-135 to mow my property for some time now. It has been a constant struggle with it and another 3 point shredder I tried to keep the front of it from plowing channels in my field. The terrain is not especially smooth and I could never get it set up to where the front was out of the dirt without carrying it on my three point. Most people I know allow it to drag in the front but I didn't like it. It puts a lot of dirt in the air and makes my fields look bad.

I always wanted to try one of the pasture mowers that attaches to your draw bar and rolls on tires. You adjust the tongue height until the mower is level and then crank the overall mower up and down on the tire set to get the cut height set. Most of these are batwing sets and way out of my price range. Most of the single deck varieties use hydraulics to adjust the mower height but my old Massey doesn't have a remote.

I finally found one of the old ones that uses a manual crank to adjust the height and bought it. A little repair and upgrading, and it works great. I mowed several acres with it today and have the following comments about it. It is made by Servis.

It certainly puts a lot less dust and dirt in the air.
It cuts a very even height and not once did the blades or the mower hit the dirt.
It takes all the weight off the tractor and makes it much easier to steer.
There is no way to back it up more than a few feet, it jack knifes.
It tows easily behind your pickup truck for moving between locations.
It trails so far behind your tracker, if you fall off backwards, there is a very good chance the mower will run over you.
Flat tries may become an issue.
My kids call it "Old School" and I like that.
Much easier to hook and un-hook to the tractor than a 3 point.

Please note that this is not a thread about which is better, a 3 point or drag type nor an opportunity to tell how to set up a 3 point. Just observations about the drag behind that I bought.

Does anyone else use one of these? I am very pleased with it so far.

 

[lhfarm]

That is exactly what I need to pull behind my farm jeep. How wide is the mower? What were the upgrades? Thanks for posting.

 

[em14]

Many years ago we used one of the first Bush Hogs which looked a lot like your picture ... one of the problems we had was flat tires ... my Dad solved that problem by getting some used tires abit larger than the tires on the Hog and we worked them over the inflated Hog tires much like a second skin .... worked great since the Hog wasn't going very fast anyway these loose "skins" stayed in place and protect the inflated tire!
Leo

 

[Farmwithjunk]

My question is, why don't you want the 3-point mounted mower "carried on the 3-point arms"? That's NORMAL and USUALLY the way to CORRECTLY use a mounted mower. I don't know of ANYONE who "drags" a mounted mower. The skids are to protect the mower IF and when it hits the surface and NOT as a substitute for wheels. 3-point hitches are designed and INTENDED to carry the implement.

I've logged thousands of hours with 3-point mounted mowers. I wouldn't dream of dragging one along like that. Even if the skids were operated only a slight bit off the ground, you'll see MUCH better results.

Drawn mowers are OK, but they don't offer the manueverability of a mounted mower. I own a mowing business. We use drawn mowers for larger sizes, but anything less than a big batwing, give me a 3-point mounted mower every time.

 

[john_bud]

Ok that's a different approach. Glad you like it. But, Farm is probably correct that you were running the prior cutter incorrectly and that was the root cause of your displeasure.

Many ways to skin a cat, glad you found yours....

jb

 

[rox]

Many years ago we used one of the first Bush Hogs which looked a lot like your picture ... one of the problems we had was flat tires ... my Dad solved that problem by getting some used tires abit larger than the tires on the Hog and we worked them over the inflated Hog tires much like a second skin .... worked great since the Hog wasn't going very fast anyway these loose "skins" stayed in place and protect the inflated tire!
Leo

THIS is a a really ingenious idea! I don't have an immediate use for the idea but I know I will always remember it.

 

[LC '92]

I was really hoping this wasn't going to turn into a "why don't you adjust your 3 point mower correctly" discussion. I have 2 of them, my friends have them, I have them at work. I know all I want to know about them. This was just to discuss the peculiarities of a draw bar type. Please see the next to last sentence in my original post and lets try and keep it on topic here.

lhfarm: Its a 5' and as far as upgrades and repairs, I had to install a new PTO spline on the drive shaft to fit my output shaft, add lube to the gearbox, bust off and replace the old bolts that adjust the tongue height, and grease all the zirks. I wish you were closer to me as I'd let you borrow it and try it out. I'd love to see a jeep pulling a pasture mower.

em4: I have seen the old tire over the new tire trick. I suppose you would cut the bead out of one side of the over tire to get it on there, right? Is that what y'all did? If the mower continues to perform as I want it to, I may just pop for some agricultural ribbed tires like are on the front of my Massey. I agree that flats may be the biggest issue.

As I was researching Servis online, I found their home page and a little history about them. Their first pasture mowers were mounted on the FRONT of the tractor so that the farmer could shred and plow in one pass! I'd love to see that unit in operation. They are now owned by Rhino, the same maker of my 6' 3 point shredder.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I was really hoping this wasn't going to turn into a "why don't you adjust your 3 point mower correctly" discussion. I have 2 of them, my friends have them, I have them at work. I know all I want to know about them. This was just to discuss the peculiarities of a draw bar type. Please see the next to last sentence in my original post and lets try and keep it on topic here.

lhfarm: Its a 5' and as far as upgrades and repairs, I had to install a new PTO spline on the drive shaft to fit my output shaft, add lube to the gearbox, bust off and replace the old bolts that adjust the tongue height, and grease all the zirks. I wish you were closer to me as I'd let you borrow it and try it out. I'd love to see a jeep pulling a pasture mower.

em4: I have seen the old tire over the new tire trick. I suppose you would cut the bead out of one side of the over tire to get it on there, right? Is that what y'all did? If the mower continues to perform as I want it to, I may just pop for some agricultural ribbed tires like are on the front of my Massey. I agree that flats may be the biggest issue.

As I was researching Servis online, I found their home page and a little history about them. Their first pasture mowers were mounted on the FRONT of the tractor so that the farmer could shred and plow in one pass! I'd love to see that unit in operation. They are now owned by Rhino, the same maker of my 6' 3 point shredder.

Not trying to beat a dead horse, nor am I trying to voice my opinion on which is BETTER. In the original post, you mentioned the reasons why you don't like a mounted mower. You mentioned using it in a manner that's not normal, nor is it "correct" by all accepted standards. I merely commented on why you'd have better luck if you used it in a different manner. That's NOT "off topic" since your original post was largely about why you didn't like using a mounted mower. Maybe not the answer you were looking for, but certainly not off topic.

That said, I've used drawn mowers before. My father had a 6' drawn mower we used behind an old AC WD. We never had any issues with tires. If you're having repeated tire troubles with the mower, you'd more'n likely be having them with whatever tractor is PULLING that mower, since it's running over the very same track as the mower in tow. If you have tire troubles, consider foam filling them, OR, running a sealer. Also, solid rubber tires OR airplane tires are available. When we used dads old mower, I always found running a lower air pressure allowed a certain amount of "suspension" movement, and also reduced bounce somewhat on really rough ground. Since those mowers USUALLY use a tire simular to a passenger car tire (size) use a steel belted radial (even an old worn one) as they offer better puncture resistance than traditional bias ply implement tires.


As far as hydraulic requirements, you can use a ratchet jack (available at most farm supply stores, or equipment dealers) in place of any hydraulic cylinder. They eliminate the cylinder, but reduce a saftey factor. With that certain other unmentionable type of mower, run over a hidden obstical and you can SAFELY raise the mower immediately. With a drawn mower, you can do the same provided it has a hydraulic lift function. Without, you're reduced to stomping on the clutch and PRAYING the blades stop quickly OR continue forward and PRAY the mower drives over and beyond whatever you just hit.

PTO shafts on drawn mowers don't normally last as long as the pto shaft on those unmentionable types. They have to bend with every turn. That's ONE of the reasons why they'll almost always have that long tongue. To give the pto shaft a less severe angle in turns.

 

[lhfarm]

lhfarm: Its a 5' and as far as upgrades and repairs, I had to install a new PTO spline on the drive shaft to fit my output shaft, add lube to the gearbox, bust off and replace the old bolts that adjust the tongue height, and grease all the zirks. I wish you were closer to me as I'd let you borrow it and try it out. I'd love to see a jeep pulling a pasture mower.

Check out this page Mowing With a Jeep on The CJ3B Page I have a large Bushhog 6' mower that works well my tractor, but it would be fun to mow my trails with the jeep. The jeep 3pt has a hard time lifting the Bushhog.