Oak boards thickness
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4570Man
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Cut it 1". I prefer not planing until I'm ready. If you do plane it to 7/8.
newbury
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C'mon -
Give us hints as to what your projects are.
I like 3 to 4 inches for tabletops, 2 inches for trailer decking.
Give us hints as to what your projects are.
I like 3 to 4 inches for tabletops, 2 inches for trailer decking.
Egon
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How big is the log? Will it be quarter, rift or flat sawn?
Yeah, I am thinking about 25 mm.
I will be redoing our living room, and sell the rest.
Logs are 50 - 60 cm (20 -23 in) in diameter. Quarter, rift or flat sawn? That's another great question. What would you do?
I will be redoing our living room, and sell the rest.
Logs are 50 - 60 cm (20 -23 in) in diameter. Quarter, rift or flat sawn? That's another great question. What would you do?
Egon
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With no idea of quanity required I'd go with flat saw at one inch for the living room with one log. With the other log I'd go for a mix of cuts with some three inch quarter sawn and the rest cut flat or rift sawn to make for the best use of the log.
Deere Dude
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I had a few logs cut 4 years ago and had it all cut 1".
1" might be easier to sell later and more projects to use it on unless you had something specific a thicker piece would be used for.
1" might be easier to sell later and more projects to use it on unless you had something specific a thicker piece would be used for.
Sawyer Rob
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As a sawyer, I can assure you that more wood has been wasted from being cut too thin in the first place, than cut too thick!
There's a reason the "standard" lumber thickness off the mill is 5/4. (I-1/4")
I mill my lumber 5/4 and AFTER it's dry and ready to use, I plane it to fit the job it's headed too.
SR
There's a reason the "standard" lumber thickness off the mill is 5/4. (I-1/4")
I mill my lumber 5/4 and AFTER it's dry and ready to use, I plane it to fit the job it's headed too.
SR
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dragoneggs
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Agreed... 5/4 rough sawn unless you have specific projects in mind that require thicker.
TnAndy
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Most hardwood lumber is sawed on the 'quarter' system...4/4, 5/4, 6/4, etc. Each scale has an 1/8" built into it because old circle mills were notoriously inaccurate, and the end user, such as flooring mills for example, wanted to end up with a solid 3/4" thickness for their flooring after planing.
That means if you saw 4/4 lumber, you "should" end up with a green board 1 1/8" thick. You'll lose maybe a 1/32-1/16 of thickness in drying, leaving plenty to plane to give a 3/4" finish.
Unless you know in advance you have a project requiring 5/4 or thicker lumber, cutting the extra thickness to later pile it up in planer chips is a waste of wood, in my opinion.
I saw on a bandmill, for myself mostly, and I grade as I saw the log. The better grade stuff, I saw on the quarter system. The heart wood, and lower grade logs, I saw on the inch scale, which after saw kerf and drying, leaves me about a 7/8" board. Since I'm going to use the lower grade stuff for sheathing or pallets, or boxes and not plane it, that works fine
That means if you saw 4/4 lumber, you "should" end up with a green board 1 1/8" thick. You'll lose maybe a 1/32-1/16 of thickness in drying, leaving plenty to plane to give a 3/4" finish.
Unless you know in advance you have a project requiring 5/4 or thicker lumber, cutting the extra thickness to later pile it up in planer chips is a waste of wood, in my opinion.
I saw on a bandmill, for myself mostly, and I grade as I saw the log. The better grade stuff, I saw on the quarter system. The heart wood, and lower grade logs, I saw on the inch scale, which after saw kerf and drying, leaves me about a 7/8" board. Since I'm going to use the lower grade stuff for sheathing or pallets, or boxes and not plane it, that works fine
