paccorti
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2000
- Messages
- 481
- Tractor
- TC35D with 16LA Loader
I started the 50hr service on my TC35D today. I thought I'd pass along a couple of comments.
1. Engine oil and filter. Be careful when removing the engine oil drain plugs. It is very hard to see (and it might remain attached to the oil pan) but there are little metal/rubber washers on the drain plugs. I didn't even know they were there (and I was looking for something like that) until one "plopped" into the can catching the oil. Real fun to fish out as you can imagine... So be careful or you will lose them and possibly have leaky drain plugs.
2. The hydraulic filter is huge and very difficult to remove if you have a loader attached. The rear "subframe" of the loader connects to the rear axle right below the hydraulic filter. You might think that you have enough room to drop the filter down between the subframe and the HST linkages; well... you don't. Move the filter towards the front of the rear wheel and over the subframe. By tilting it you can get it out. Plus you get a nice hydraulic oil bath down your arm.
3. HST filter. If you have the loader attached, the permanent mount for the loader will surround the sides of the HST filter. I can't seem to get enough leverage by hand to unscrew the filter so be prepared with an oil wrench. You'll need a wrench which grips the end cap of the filter and can be driven by a socket wrench. I have the traditional oil filter wrench which grips the body of the filter and tightens a metal "band" around the filter. Forget it. There is not enough room to use it.
4. Fuel filter. The fuel filter is easy to change. The diagram in the owner's manual shows an o ring that fits against the top of the fuel filter. This o ring should remain attached to the top of the fuel filter housing (and not to the filter itself). So don't be freaked out if you can't find it at first. Also, once you are putting the whole assembly together you will have a lot of air in the sediment bowl. This air (as the manual points out) will keep the engine from running. Don't assume that running the engine will fill the bowl; it probably won't. With the fuel valve turned "on" gently unscrew the sediment bowl. If you unscrew the bowl enough (without removing it) you can get the air to escape and the bowl with fill with fuel. Engine will start right up then.
That's as far as I got today. Hope this helps some people.
Peter
1. Engine oil and filter. Be careful when removing the engine oil drain plugs. It is very hard to see (and it might remain attached to the oil pan) but there are little metal/rubber washers on the drain plugs. I didn't even know they were there (and I was looking for something like that) until one "plopped" into the can catching the oil. Real fun to fish out as you can imagine... So be careful or you will lose them and possibly have leaky drain plugs.
2. The hydraulic filter is huge and very difficult to remove if you have a loader attached. The rear "subframe" of the loader connects to the rear axle right below the hydraulic filter. You might think that you have enough room to drop the filter down between the subframe and the HST linkages; well... you don't. Move the filter towards the front of the rear wheel and over the subframe. By tilting it you can get it out. Plus you get a nice hydraulic oil bath down your arm.
3. HST filter. If you have the loader attached, the permanent mount for the loader will surround the sides of the HST filter. I can't seem to get enough leverage by hand to unscrew the filter so be prepared with an oil wrench. You'll need a wrench which grips the end cap of the filter and can be driven by a socket wrench. I have the traditional oil filter wrench which grips the body of the filter and tightens a metal "band" around the filter. Forget it. There is not enough room to use it.
4. Fuel filter. The fuel filter is easy to change. The diagram in the owner's manual shows an o ring that fits against the top of the fuel filter. This o ring should remain attached to the top of the fuel filter housing (and not to the filter itself). So don't be freaked out if you can't find it at first. Also, once you are putting the whole assembly together you will have a lot of air in the sediment bowl. This air (as the manual points out) will keep the engine from running. Don't assume that running the engine will fill the bowl; it probably won't. With the fuel valve turned "on" gently unscrew the sediment bowl. If you unscrew the bowl enough (without removing it) you can get the air to escape and the bowl with fill with fuel. Engine will start right up then.
That's as far as I got today. Hope this helps some people.
Peter
