Odd engine light problem. Just a fluke?

[WoodChuckDad]

I am not sure where to post this but I thought I would share. I am curious if anyone else has had this issue.

The short description is that I had a CEL light come on in the tractor and after some troubleshooting and gathering of symptoms, I noticed that the key was not all the way in the ignition. it came out easily I tried to put it back in but it wouldn't go in all the way. I was able to turn the tractor off, put the key back in and turn it back on. The tractor started back up and all symptoms were gone.

The long description. Kioti RX7320. I had just finished spraying my orchard. (A-1 Terminator mist sprayer) As I was turning off the PTO, I noticed that my engine temp was a bit high. It wasn't in the red but it usually runs right in the middle between two reference dots on the gauge. The temp returned to normal within 5-10 minutes of turning off PTO. My land is not completely smooth so sometimes there are some bumps. As I exited the orchard there is a bump and I put my foot on the brake and noticed a change in the engine sound and feel. The CEL light came on. My owners manual says the CEL indicated a fuel system problem or a serious electrical fault.
I needed to clean the sprayer so I continued to drive the tractor and gather symptoms

When lowered the RPM all the way it would run at 1300 rpm (higher than normal). If I put my foot on the brake, it dropped to 900 rpm.
if I put the lever all the way up it stopped at 2200 rpm. (too low to reach 540 PTO speed). if I adjusted it to 2000 rpm which is where I usually run the tractor when not using PTO, and put my foot on the brake, it would drop to 1700 rpm.
I cleaned the sprayer twice, which involves driving to and from my water source and back to the orchard. So these symptoms lasted a good 20-30 minutes.

Not long before I finished spraying, I stopped and turned off the engine to make an adjustment. I even removed the key. So when I got back in, I think I didn't put the key all the way in and turned the tractor on with the key slightly out. I tried to repeat that process and could not get the key to turn without being fully engaged.

Is it likely that the there was a fluke and I got the ignition to turn without the key being fully seated, and when I hit a bump, it jiggled out and the tractor started throwing codes because of the key not being in the ignition?

I will be back on the farm today so I will have a chance to see if this happens again and can do some more trouble shooting.

 

[smartascii]

The temperature change and reduced power makes me think it might be more than the key. This is very basic, but have you checked the radiator screen to see if it is clogged? The dandelion fluff around here clogs mine, and if I leave it too long, the engine starts to overheat and it will eventually reduce power to protect itself.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

The temperature change and reduced power makes me think it might be more than the key. This is very basic, but have you checked the radiator screen to see if it is clogged? The dandelion fluff around here clogs mine, and if I leave it too long, the engine starts to overheat and it will eventually reduce power to protect itself.

I will check that. Thank you.

 

[countrybumpkin]

The hi idle with a CEL most of the time is related to a fuel delivery issue, reason for it to idle down while the brake is pressed is a a safety override. My NX did this a few times then finally the light would not go off and dealer had two replace the injectors. Really need to have the dealer read the codes and you will be able to tell more about what’s going on.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

I was doing shovel work and manual labor all day yesterday so I didn’t get a chance to use the tractor yesterday. Getting codes read at dealer would you involve a 60 mile ride.