Odd request.. need plunger for FEL control, max26hst

linuxman51 · Dec 5, 2017

I'll include a picture of what I'm talking about, but the end on one of the plungers for the FEL control broke off (had it not happened while I was using the tractor, I would assume something fell on the control, but that does not appear to be the case leading up to the failure). Talked to the dealer yesterday, and apparently the individual components are not listed for sale through mahindra.. there's the joystick component set (faceplate and all that), and then the valve body (but it's not known if the valve body includes the valves/plungers/whatever that is), or the complete unit.

So my question is.. being somewhat unfamiliar with hydraulic components, what do I need to measure/where do I need to look to cross-reference this, as surely someone carries the internal parts, yes? (of course, worst case scenario, I could get another loader control assembly and attach that). I'm not afraid to get in there and take it apart.

I'm not sure why it broke, it wasn't the first movement of the day or even the 10th, and it didn't bind up. looked to be a clean break to boot, I'm at a loss on that one-but it's in line with the other less than good luck I've had of late.

teg · Dec 5, 2017

How old is this tractor? FEL valves just don't break like this...

linuxman51 · Dec 5, 2017

teg said:
How old is this tractor? FEL valves just don't break like this...

2.5 years, give or take. about 99 hours. I agree... something must have happened while it was out of (my) sight, but there's no visible sign of whatever it might have been.

npalen · Dec 5, 2017

I don't believe that the plunger (commonly called the spool) is replaceable in most valves. Some or most are selective assembled to fit very precisely into the valve body in order to minimize internal leakage. In other works, a production run of the spools and valves would be precisely measured down to tenths of a thousandth of an inch on the diameter and then placed in pairs or groups for assembly.
There are no o-rings on the spool that would seperate hydraulic fluid between internal ports of the valve so metal to metal "seal" has to be closely controlled.

skipmarcy · Dec 6, 2017

I agree, spools are custom lapped to their valve bodies.

CincyFlyer · Dec 6, 2017

linuxman51 said:
I'll include a picture of what I'm talking about, but the end on one of the plungers for the FEL control broke off (had it not happened while I was using the tractor, I would assume something fell on the control, but that does not appear to be the case leading up to the failure). Talked to the dealer yesterday, and apparently the individual components are not listed for sale through mahindra.. there's the joystick component set (faceplate and all that), and then the valve body (but it's not known if the valve body includes the valves/plungers/whatever that is), or the complete unit.

So my question is.. being somewhat unfamiliar with hydraulic components, what do I need to measure/where do I need to look to cross-reference this, as surely someone carries the internal parts, yes? (of course, worst case scenario, I could get another loader control assembly and attach that). I'm not afraid to get in there and take it apart.

I'm not sure why it broke, it wasn't the first movement of the day or even the 10th, and it didn't bind up. looked to be a clean break to boot, I'm at a loss on that one-but it's in line with the other less than good luck I've had of late.

I've never seen Besko parts. I do have a spare Besko joystick, however, with almost zero hours, as I replaced mine with a new joystick+grapple valve.

tkevan · Dec 6, 2017

A good machine shop " might" be able to tig that back together then machine it. Probably cheaper than the $1k mahindra wants for a new valve. Otherwise, I'd just replace it with a Prince with the same flow capacity.

CincyFlyer · Dec 7, 2017

It looks as if something heavy was dropped on it, or perhaps a child stood upon it. A stout child.

linuxman51 · Dec 10, 2017

I tigg'ed it this evening, and then shortened the handle for a couple of reasons, chief among them to reduce the leverage placed on the valves, but also to get it out of the way. cut about 4 inches off it.

If anyone is curious, it's threaded M10x1.50 on both ends.

napa made up a new hose with some slightly higher rated stuff, probably going to have to figure out a bleeding routine or maybe just cycle it some more, it's got air in it still.

linuxman51 · Dec 10, 2017

also, on a side note (I never paid close attention before), does anyone else's curl valve have like 1/4in in and out free play before anything starts happening? (that could maybe also be a function of air in the valve body perhaps?) in terms of stick movement, I'd say a good inch or two side to side before it starts to curl up or down.