Off to the Doctor

[jinman]

<font color=blue>The peddle sticking is the problem I'm concerned about - it's like you're stuck in cruise control untill the tractor warms up. Stepping on the brakes does little to slow, I have to step on the hydro peddle in reverse to stop the tractor. Not good...
</font color=blue>

Brad, many of us have had this problem and it normally relates to lubrication of the hydro pedal mechanism or the return spring tension being under-adjusted. With your tractor off, get under it and watch what happens when you operate the pedals. You may be able to figure out for yourself what the best "cure" is. Otherwise, I'm sure your dealer can take care of that problem. It could also be that your return spring has broken or come off.

 

[Boomerboy]

3huskies,

Bad Dog - No Bisquet!

Don't make me tell you about the big Orange Toy of my buddy's that I had to drag out of the gully with my TC29D when it was only 6°F last Christmas; or why his Orange Transmission could not perform at such cold temps!

Make nice now!

More Seat Time To You! /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

 

[bphillips]

Hi Jim,
I was just going out to the barn to have a look after checking out the hydro pedal diagrams in the manuals when along comes the the truck to haul the tractor away. Hope they can figure it out. The exploded diagram of the return spring setup look like something out of the Space Shuttle. I think Rube Goldburg would be proud....

If that isn't the problem, the manual talks about splitting the tractor and tearing the pump all apart to replace something called a "Neutral Valve".

Let's not go there ...

Brad in NH

 

[jinman]

Brad, since the transmission does go to neutral if you step on the opposite pedal, I doubt the neutral valve is bad. I doubt they will have to split your tractor to fix this problem. I'd venture a guess that your hydro pedals will be fixed a long time before your fogging instrument panel. I used to build aircraft instruments and the only way to stop fogging was to pump a vacuum, fill with dry nitrogen, and hermetically seal the instrument. Mine has fogged a little, but never so much that I couldn't see the instruments. If you keep your tractor in a warm garage and then take it outside where it's cool or cold, I suspect fogging will always be a problem with an unsealed instrument. /w3tcompact/icons/sad.gif/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

 

[frank_f15]

just wondering? if the dealer just had it and worked on it, why is he still having the exact same problems? seems to me that he should not have to troubleshoot a problem that should have been taken care of by dealer.i would think that the creeping problem if it is just a lubrication problem would have been the fist thing that the dealer took care of, and if it was still creeping, why did they return it? don't care what color the machine is, u should demand a working tractor.

 

[RuT]

Brad:

I had a similar problem to the hydro sticking pedal with my 29D. Funny enough, it was opposite of you.

When cold the pedal was fine. After it warmed up then the pedal would stick and I would have to return to neutral with my foot. It did not return automatically.

I don't know the technical description of what the dealer did, but to make a long story short...there is a cast piece that holds a rod that comes from the pedal. There are some plastic bushings in there that NH says were sticking.

First they tried to lubricate the bushings and that helped, but did not fix it. Finally, they just replaced the whole cast assembly and this solved the sticking pedal and the creep I was experiencing.

If you have warranty then you may just want to get this checked out and done. Replacing the whole assembly was the answer. Nothing major, just gummed up plastic bushings

By the way, the tractor started this problem at about 5 hours. The dealer and I tried a few things before they just replaced the assembly at 50 hours.

Good luck

 

[cstocks]

Sounds like I need to take my TC33D back to the dealer and have them replace the assembly. I have had two dealers look at mine and whatever they did to it did not fix the problem. I regularly grease it from underneath and that has not helped either. Mine doesn't seem to matter if it is running hot or cold - it does it all the time. At best it get a little less sticky with use but at no time can I count on my pedal returning to neutral. I have gotten use to the pedal sticking and have adjusted the way I operate it to compensate for the sticking but a permanent fix is in order. Thanks for the info, RuT.

 

[jinman]

<font color=blue>seems to me that he should not have to troubleshoot a problem that should have been taken care of by dealer.i would think that the creeping problem if it is just a lubrication problem would have been the fist thing that the dealer took care of, and if it was still creeping, why did they return it</font color=blue>

Frank, you are absolutely correct. I didn't intend to infer that Brad should take on the responsibility of fixing this problem instead of the dealer. I know what happened on my tractor and my fix was easy. Brad should not have to do this. However, since his dealer already had the tractor and returned it to him un-fixed, he may be forced to learn a little more about the problem so he can see through any "smoke-screens" the dealer might try to put up. I don't know if the Class II Boomers are anything like my Class III, but when you look under mine and watch what happens when you move the pedals, it's certainly an eye-opener to the mechanics of the device. Of course, I had my hydro pedal actuator mechanism break and decided to fix it myself. BIG, BIG MISTAKE./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif I now have a device that's much stronger than the factory part, but I also know how to disassemble/reassemble the whole operator's platform and FEL loader posts. Some jobs which look simple in the beginning turn out to be quite involved. If you can get satisfactory service from your dealer, that's always the preferred way to go. /w3tcompact/icons/clever.gif