Offset Rear Blade

Fladogman

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2020
Messages
45
Tractor
kubota mx5800
now it's becoming a challenge to count up the ways to adjust lol. I have the hydraulic top link so I'm going with the 10 way.
 

Zebrafive

Super Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
5,489
Location
South West MI
Tractor
John Deere 2030, John Deere 6415
I have a 6 way WOODS RB 800 blade for sale in Southwest MI, all manual, no hydraulics. Width is 8 foot.
I bought a bigger tractor, so I also bought a bigger blade, rather than damage this one.
$800
 

Smokeydog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2019
Messages
1,658
Location
Knoxville, Tennessee
Tractor
Kubota B26, M59, M5030DT
I had a slider that I wore out in a couple of decades. Bolts could never keep the blade in place well. Was at the Kubota dealer for an used equipment auction. Used blades were going for more than I thought they were worth. Wander over to the new equipment section looking at new offset blades. Salesman priced woods and bush hog the same. While I was trying to decide which one was better a Woods rep happen come over to talk to salesman. The woods blade thickness was slightly thicker. He dropped the price on the woods $150. So that’s what I got. So much better than what I had. Getting the correct geometry for grading and heavier blade so important in getting the results you want. Only regret was not upgrading sooner.

Any grading requires lots of adjustments. The old Ford 850 and Kubota M5030 could make side link adjustments from the seat were tremendously helpful. New cuts have turnbuckle type. Upgraded the B26 to an aftermarket gearbox sidelink.
 

marhar

Silver Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2013
Messages
173
Location
Denton NC
Tractor
Farm Trac 60
I have been looking and looking for an offset rear blade for quite a while with no luck on the used market. I mean the offset which is adjusted by pulling the pin up, rotating the whole rear assembly, and then putting the pin back in. I am well aware that a lot of of the rear blades have offset adjustments in the blade, in which you unbolt it, shift it over to the distance you desire, and then bolt the blade back in. I am also aware that the rear blades do tilt, to angle them, pulling materials in, or pushing it away.

Where I reside, we have an old railbed, which has been neglected for far too long, and it now has most of the rocks pushed to the side or the hump in the middle. I also have a 200 foot gravel driveway I maintain.

Goal is to get the blade out past the tires and able to pull the pushed aside gravel back into the tire tracks on the railbed, and to push snow away from the edge of my driveway.

Is the bolt and unbolting of the blade to adjust the offset THAT big of a pain in the butt, or is the discount in cost and increase in availability well worth it?

Thanks in advance you giant wealth of knowledge.
Take a look at Everything Attachments. Their blades are easy to pull a pin to rotate. to offset and to change the angle. They are even made in the USA. When I ordered mine they offered free shipping. The folks there were easy to work with.
 

RancherGuy

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2010
Messages
201
Location
Rosenberg, TX
Tractor
Kubota L3710; JD 5425, 6105R, 7130-P; IH 1086
Buy once and cry once. That is a great quote, and it does make sense. Thank you for that.

And time and convenience, for sure, the ability to just lift the pin out, turn it, and pin back in and done.

I actually don't PLAN on having to move the offset quite frequently, like not on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis by any means. But on a job by job basis, however often that occurs.

I suppose it comes down to, is what is my price for convenience, when I do need it.
The replies here should be a good help in your selection. 25 years ago I bought my first tractor and at the time the salesman also sold me on a 10 ft Rhino HD rear blade at the same time. Absolutely no regrets. On my ranch it has been unbelievably useful. Not constantly, but a great asset. I bought it with zero hydraulics. 10 years later I laid out the money to outfit it with 4 cylinders for those actions, and added controls to operate off of 3 rear remotes - the cost was an added $1,000 as I recall.

So, you have a decision. As I see it, do you buy a blade that is expensive but does all that you want, or not? Do you see use beyond the railroad rock? If your biggest desire is just the rock, consider the ROI. Is your money better spent renting something to do the job, hire someone to do the job, or buying the truckload(s) that you desire? 200 feet of driveway is not a big project. If your time is free or you prefer spending an afternoon with your tractor, you might consider taking your tractor with FEL and "back dragging" the rock up to center of the railroad bed instead of going all fancy with a blade.
 

Yard Sarge

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2020
Messages
25
Location
Nunica, MI
Tractor
New Holland Boomer 47
I agree EA makes a good looking blade but I didn't want to wait that long. I ended up buying a Rhino 70-07 and added hydraulic cylinder to offset it.
 

oosik

Super Star Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
16,255
Location
AMBER, WA
Tractor
2009 Kubota M6040
With my FitRite hydraulic top link - my Rhino 950 is ten way adjustable. Eight of the ways are manual. Otherwise it would look like an octopus out back.
 

airbiscuit

Elite Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2004
Messages
4,224
Location
NW Wisconsin
Tractor
New Holland T2310, Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA, Farmall H *** Previously - 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
If you could get your front wheels to lean like a Road Grader, you could have a 12 way adjustable blade!

 

airbiscuit

Elite Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2004
Messages
4,224
Location
NW Wisconsin
Tractor
New Holland T2310, Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA, Farmall H *** Previously - 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
Ooh, ooh, ARTICULATE and Lean, and you have a 14 way adjustable!

 
 
 
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