Loader oil and filter ford 4400

[North MD]

I have a early 70s ford 4400 industrial.

I'm looking for the oil filter parts# and which weight oil does it take
Its a Diesel model.

Also the battery that's in it is to tall its hitting the hood and melted the ground wire.
anybody have a cheap fix?

I'm also wondering if there are glow plugs or a preheater on this tractor.
There is a little push button near the starter key.

I don't have a manual and i need to service this rig before i start using it

Thanks Bill

 

[RickB]

I have a early 70s ford 4400 industrial.

I'm looking for the oil filter parts# and which weight oil does it take
Its a Diesel model. 86546611 for the cartridge style or 86546614 for the spin on oil filter. 10W-30 or 15W-40 CI-4 or higher API rating

Also the battery that's in it is to tall its hitting the hood and melted the ground wire.
anybody have a cheap fix? Ground wire shouldn't arc to anything, the positive will. Buy the correct battery (BCI group 4DLT) or remove the hood.

I'm also wondering if there are glow plugs or a preheater on this tractor.No glowplugs, might have the optional thermostart (manifold heater) operated with the key.
There is a little push button near the starter key.B prefix serial number tractor could have a horn button there. After 40 years, it's hard to tell what anyone could have added

I don't have a manual and i need to service this rig before i start using it
Don't be afraid to buy an operator's manual, it will answer questions you don't know you have
Thanks Bill

 

[North MD]

Thanks Rick,

From what i can see its a
TRACTOR#C227155
MODEL# #D4011K
UNIT#? 9012B
ENGINE#8M4B
TRANS#9A16B
REAR#8J23B

I picked up the battery, 4DLT(huge), new cables.
Got the oil (Rotella), oil filter and fuel filter (fram) all stock at TSC.
Best price on the battery, I called around.

While taking the hot wire (1 inch cable) off starter, the stud broke(PLASTIC PLATE) of the starter(ouch)
Went to Napa this morning and got a new starter this afternoon.

Did find some leaking fuel hoses (dry rot connectors) and had to replace and it needed new hose clamps.
pulled the fuel filter, the bowl was full of sediment, cleaned and back together.

So i get this new starter and there are 4 tabs for electrical connections.
My old starter had 1 and one wire hanging in engine bay that was connected to it.
I'm assuming this just go to the hot side where the hot battery cable attaches.

anyone has any ideas about the tabs on a new starter??

Never gets any easier, I dont want to fry the new starter

Bill

 

[ovrszd]

I bought an electronic owners manual for my 3910. Wish I'd went for a paper copy.

I agree with Rick. I'm all about owner's manuals. Always find something I didn't know regardless of the piece of equipment.

 

[attract her]

I run a 30 year old Ford 1520 w/ 3 cylinder diesel.
I had to do a quick oil change on it, but didn't have a New Holland filter for it (they're appallingly $expensive).

BUT !!

I had a few extra filters left over from my Toyota pickup truck (before Toyota gave their truck a model name). That's just a 4 cylinder engine with around 100 hp.
My 1520 has a 3 cyl. diesel @~ 21 to 25 hp (not sure, the owner's manual doesn't list it in engine specifications).

The truck engine filter was the same size etc, so I put it on the tractor. Fits like a glove.

Fluid filtration isn't rocket surgery.
The parameters that matter are:

a) does it fit?

b) is the filtration (pore size) parameter adequate? Neither too big, nor too small. Too big, and damaging particles circulate, scoring delicate tolerances like crankshaft bearings and piston rings. Pore size too small and flow volume may be compromised.

c) can the filter handle the pressures and volumes the engine subjects it to? &

d) is there a flow-check valve in the filter that will prevent it from operating on an engine not designated for it?

I couldn't get the specs. for pore size, but that brand of filter usually uses paper media. I approximated that a 25 hp diesel engine probably doesn't have a much greater oil flow rate than a ~100 hp gasoline engine *.

The pay-off?
- I didn't have to do the 50 mile round trip to the tractor filter store.
- The generic filter (pick a brand you like, my local store carries Fram) is $1/4 the price. And the filter for the Toyota may be as good or better.

IT'S RISKY !!

Put the wrong filter on, and the component (engine, HST pump, whatever) could be $ruined. If the filter housing (metal can) can't contain the diesel fluid pressure it could burst the can and take out a few eyes. So think it through !!

But my 1520 is going strong, and is sure to outlast me.


* Some or most engine lubrication circuits do not send 100% of the oil through the filter on every cycle. There's a bypass flow path, often regulated by a pressure relief valve.