Oil & Fuel Oil Change Interval

[banjodunn]

G'day Tatra what you say is correct to a point a filter will remove smaller particles as it clogs up but as the average engine filter removes down to 15 - 18 microns by the time it starts to clog up it is not long before it goes into bypass, it may only do this at cold start and high revs for a start but as soon as you start pushing unfiltered oil around the engine you are causing wear. I have always maintained that 30 bucks worth of oil and filter is alot cheaper than $3000 + of engine rebuild. As far as 1 million + ks on 1 filter and no oil change NO chance, i have been in the heavy repair industry working on everything from chainsaws to D10s for the last 23 years and have personally seen what happens when oil is not changed for 60,000 kms i could pick up heaped handfulls out of the sump this was in a 4wd with 90,000k on the clock. Some of the euro manufactures are talking 70,000 km service intervals but only on full synthetics and premium filter packages. I also count my kawasaki road bike as running fairly good tolerances ( it does spin up to 14000 rpm ) there is no way that it goes past 5000k without an oil and filterchange my other bike a '44 indian chief not quite the same tolerances but still gets its oil changed every 2000 mile neither uses enough between changes to top up (kwaka 37,415 since rebuild and approx 12,000 a year indian approx17,500 miles since rebuild ) if your tatra is using a litre every 500km it is due a rebuild. I'm no expert but i know what I've seen



Jon

 

[tatra805]

jon,

i could not find back the original system, if you insist i have to find back a land rover owner magazine where these guys were advertising a couple of years ago. Anyway i saw the system running on trucks (lorries) with the 1M km as a fact.

It was a similar system as this Filtakleen UK leader design supply installation maintenance automated centralised lubrication systems but the filters were way bigger.

Regarding your Tatra remark, i'll say it differently: the manual states: add 1l of oil every 500km.

in the service manual they state under the yearly engine revision: remove the sump and remove dirt and sludge found in the lower part. (this is a revision, not a rebuild manual)

Rest assured, the engine does not need a rebuild (it has had one, but that has nothing to do with this topic) . It was "designed" that way.

FYI you are talking about the military spec version of the 2.5L aircooled V8 as found in the T603 passenger car.

 

[Motorcop]

Thanks guys. Didn't mean to stir up a hornet's nest, but all good info to know. I think I will probably stick with the 50-100 hour or annual oil and filter change. It will probably end up being annually since I don't know that I will get that many hours on it in a year just mowing the pasture and little odd chores.

The next question would be what brand oil and what weight for NE Texas. I have used Rotella 15w40 (non-synthetic) in my '97 F-350/ PSD for the last 11years, but I'm guessing that is probably the wrong weight for a tractor application. And anyone know what oil filter crosses with the NH brand for fit. I'm scared to price one at the NH Dealer. I asked about an air filter when I was there picking up seals for the lower implement lift support arms. My local dealer quoted $39.00 for an air filter. I came home and cleaned it out with the air compressor and put it back in.

 

[NewToy]

I also subscribe to the 100 hr or once a year change interval. The initial 50 hr service calls for an oil change but after that my manual has a 200hr interval. That seems a bit much and oil is fairly cheap so 100 works out just right for me.

John

 

[NewToy]

Thanks guys. Didn't mean to stir up a hornet's nest, but all good info to know. I think I will probably stick with the 50-100 hour or annual oil and filter change. It will probably end up being annually since I don't know that I will get that many hours on it in a year just mowing the pasture and little odd chores.

The next question would be what brand oil and what weight for NE Texas. I have used Rotella 15w40 (non-synthetic) in my '97 F-350/ PSD for the last 11years, but I'm guessing that is probably the wrong weight for a tractor application. And anyone know what oil filter crosses with the NH brand for fit. I'm scared to price one at the NH Dealer. I asked about an air filter when I was there picking up seals for the lower implement lift support arms. My local dealer quoted $39.00 for an air filter. I came home and cleaned it out with the air compressor and put it back in.

Synthetics are good especially for extreme applications, (real hot or real cold). I put Amsoil HD Diesel in mine and it works well, as far as I know I was initially pointed to synthetics when I tried to pour conventional Rotella out of the jug in below freezing temps. The stuff is like thick honey when real cold. The synthetic Amsoil flows well at freezing temps so I figured I'd have much better lubrication during a cold start. This probably isn't an issue in Texas but the syns supposedly hold up alot better in extreme heat. Win, win situation?

John

 

[RobertN]

Mine is changed every spring. I never meet the hour requirement.

My little motor only hold 3qts of oil. And gets run hard(PTO speed) when mowing. And, with all the gunk that goes with diesel, figure it does not hurt. to change it. So, it has fresh oil right before starting to mow.

 

[Motorcop]

Picked up an oil filter yesterday and asked the dealer what weight oil should be used. He said to use 15w40 wt, so I guess I will stick to the same Rotella that I use in my truck and the wife's diesel beetle. The oil that came out was some nasty stuff. Don't know when it was changed last, so I may only run the new oil a shorter period of time and change it again (20 or 30 hours).

 

[cjk]

Has anyone sent in a sample for analysis?

I plan on doing this to see if annual changes are needed and to see what is going on in the engine. I know people who do this and have extended their change interval accordingly.

 

[bjr]

I also do 100 hr or 1 yr change on JM 354 Jinma. I change the oil in the fuel pump then also. I'm a little less vigilant on the transmission and differential probably will go three year on that stuff. The hydraulics seem to spring enough leaks that it gets change 1 a year by itself. bjr