Ok implement gurus.....how do I fix this????

[leeinmemphis]

Hey everyone,

I have a 3pt disc that I have not used in about 3 years. Recently I let someone borrow it and he managed to tear it up by turning with it in the ground. I advised him against it but apparently he didn't listen.

Here is a pic of the overall damage:

Here is a pic of the right side(facing it). The damage on this side is much more significant. I am thinking about heating up that red piece of iron with a torch and then pulling it back towards the frame where it should be. Then all I would have to do is weld a bead down the square tubing/angle iron. Looks like I ought to go on ahead and put another cat2 pin on it while I'm at it because it appears to be possibly bent and if it has had that kind of stress on it then it may be a wise idea to replace it.

This is the left side(facing it). I am hoping that I can get away with just replacing the hinge pin.

Does this sound like it should work or do I need to look at reinforcing it after I get it straight since I am going to heat up the metal? I am REALLY needing to get it fixed this next week because I have to get some grass seed planted in an area that I have some bad erosion. I want to use this because it isn't as aggressive cutting than my pull type disc and I am only wanting to scratch the ground for the grass seed. Thanks.

 

[JerryG]

Straighten them, weld and replace the pins as needed. Looks like a good plan to me.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I hope I can describe this in terms someone can understand. Here goes.

I saw one "fixed" that suffered a very simular fate. First, the bent parts were straightened and welded anywhere it would help. Next, the lower link pins were removed. 2 pieces of 3"X3"X1/4", angle about 4" wide was bolted in place (with 3/4"X2" hex bolts so they had a "flat" facing forward. (Angle facing inward, bolted in place using old holes for lower pins)Then another hole was drilled in the forward facing flat to which a CAT I 9-hole drawbar was bolted. That gave it a "tie" from side to side, as well as a much sturdier hitch point. That moves the hitch point forward an inch or so, but that can be overcome via leghtening the top link.

Clear as mud?

It WASN'T what I'd do as a permenent fix, but it looked like a good "quickie" fix.

 

[slaveToHorses]

ouch! Someone owes you a fine bottle of whiskey.
I would do exactly what you are planning.
Better to heat and bend than to hammer it or work it cold.
I can't really see the back welds, at the end of the side plate there but you might be able to just grind that weld off, thus separating the plate from the frame. It might be easier to flatten that way...or replace.
Definitely replace the pins.

Looks to me like they should have put a continuous weld on top and bottom of those side plates. The right one just broke that weld right off.

 

[sandman2234]

Before you grab the torch and start heating, grab a 15 or 18 inch cresent wrench and a two foot piece of pipe and start tweaking the pieces back into place. Not using the heat, if you are able to straighten it, will keep a little more stength in the metal, and not ruin the paint.
As far as replacing the pins with cat 2, you might consider what will happen the next time something goes wrong. Pins are reasonably cheap, and if they fail, it might keep something else from bending. If you replace them with a stronger pin, what will fail before the pin does? I think I would rather replace pins than most of the other stuff. Just my thoughts...
David from jax

 

[Dex]

I agree with Sandman. I just had to repair a box blade that suffered much the same demise. I hit a tree root while backing down and bent the same parts that you did. Disassemble the top link frame and get the bar and hammer working. It will straighten and then weld her back together. She is not teminial just real sick. A little TLC and she will be plowing soon.

 

[HarleyScooter]

I had a similar problem with my box blade. If you remove the pins and straighten all the pieces seperatley it will be easier. I agree with trying to straighten it cold, you may find that a large C clamp will bring in the side that is really bent out if you clamp it to the end of the box tubing. I used a 24" pipe wrench to straighten out the flat bars. Good luck, it doesn't look that bad.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Try takeing a comealong(chain hoist) and hook on the lift pins and pull it back in place. You will probably have to help it along with a BFH.

 

[D7E]

Just heat it up bend it back against tube , Weld top and bottom and if you want to stop it happening again cut some plate and put gussets in the corners .

 

[MrJimi]

Bring it to a body shop, they have frame machines and they can do this real easy, and I would NOT use heat.
Jim

 

[PineRidge]

Don't mind it near as much if I damage my own implement as if someone else does it for me.

Straighten, re weld, replace the pins and it should be as good as new.

Tell the neighbor the next time he asks to borrow an implement, "Thanks, but no thanks."

 

[greg_g]

Depending on soil type, you should be able to turn a small disc harrow like that without lifting at every turn. Of course if it's working pulverized/sandy soil or loam - with the discs buried to the hilt - common sense should prevail. In more typical conditions where penetration 50% or less - AND it's mounted properly - it should corner without lifting. As with any harrowing implement, avoiding radical U-turns comes under the category of common sense.

But the person ultimately responsible for the damage is the one that mounted it on the tractor without adjusting the lower lift arms properly. If they were tightened to pin spread as they should have been, the working angles that caused this damage should not have occurred. The left pin (in the photo) was also loose in it's hole when the harrow was mounted to the tractor. That's about the only way that pins bend in that manner. That bent pin is almost certainly what aggravated the damage to the other side. The operator should always check lift pins for tightness before an implement is mounted. A quick check is to look at the lock washer. If the split is closed, it's a pretty good bet the pin bolt is tight enough.

The operator though, must share some blame as well. Watching the implement as it works could have at least limited this damage before it got to the point we see in your photos.

That said, the pin bracket on that particular harrow is of a p-poor design in the first place. Once you get the OE brackets straightened, you might consider reinforcement. One way is to weld flatstock between the brackets, limiting their range of motion; one bracket reinforces the other. The other way is to weld an additional pair of identical brackets, one each alongside the existing pair. The lift arm swivel balls fit between (and are pinned to) a pair of brackets - instead of just one. Or you could do both; flatstock reinforcement AND double pin brackets.

//greg//

 

[TwinWillows]

Lent out & tore up = borrower fixes it to my satisfaction!

 

[Mrwurm]

I had a similiar thing happen to my 3pt carryall. Using an oxy/acetylene torch, I could not apply enough heat to even begin to bend it back into shape. I ended up cutting out the damaged area and welding in a new piece.

 

[sandman2234]

MrWurm,
That is one reason for straightening it cold, no heat.
david


As far as the person responsible for the damage, I won't guess. Most of my friends have the same rule. Borrow it, return it in the same shape or better than you borrowed it. If it had half a tank of gas, return it with more than that. If you tear it up, you must fix it better than it was.
When it comes to my tools and such, I usually am particular as to who gets to work on it. I don't want just anybody firing up a torch and welder and working on my implements. Usually takes me longer to fix some peoples mistakes after they fixed them, than to just do it myself the first time.

With that said, some of my friends can fix them BETTER than I ever will be able to, but they have been in the fabrication business for 40 years.
David from jax

 

[firemanpat2910]

I am with the cold long pipe wrench with a cheater crowd. Just "fixed" a box blade for a buddy of mine. Ugliest job I ever did ,the arms that go up to the top link had beeen bent & straightened so many times they look like a noodle. We got this one functional but ugly. Left side curves inward,right side goes outward. But it works. I dont know if I would weld all the way down the seam or just use a couple of 2" spots like they did. At least that gives you a break point that wont twist the tube frame. Oh and I agree the pin was loose to start with.

 

[Dan239]

If you were close to my place I would tell you to put it on a trailer and bring it over and I would straighten it in a few minutes. I would use what we called a PortaPower in the body shop and push it in line easily. It would take longer to rig it up than to push it back into place. Find someone who has a 10 ton PortaPower and knows how to use it and your job will be simple. Then you can weld and strengthen it to your satisfaction.

Daniel

 

[leeinmemphis]

thanks guys. I went and bought the replacement pins today. I looked at it again today and I'm hoping to be able to take a come along or something to straighten it back and then weld it up. I'll let you guys know how it comes out. Thanks again!

 

[sandman2234]

What size pins did you buy? Class I or Class II??
David from jax

 

[leeinmemphis]

I bought some class 2 pins from Tractor supply on Friday. Thanks.