Ok to use treated wood for shower?

[Richard]

Title says it all....

Is it ok to use treated wood as the infrastructure for a stand up shower?

Shower would be wooden frame, layer of durrock (or whatever concrete board is called) followed by a sealed rubber skirt at the bottom & going up the sides maybe (??) 30 inches?? followed by tile.

Or would it be better to use normal lumber?

Side note, the threshold would be screwed (maybe glued) to the floor and the next 2x4 would be screwed (maybe glued) to the first one. Either two (for sure) or three rows high to create the water dam and door sil.

Forget cost, it's a small difference. Oh, and the lumber would be touching an exterior wall on two of the four sides and the concrete floor under all the walls. (this is in a basement and the walls it would be touching are both below grade, it's in the buried side of a walk out basement)

I feel more comfy with treated but am open to hear why it's a good (or bad) idea

 

[LD1]

Only thing that would make it a bad choice is if you dont use proper fastners. Stainless or approved HDG nails and screws.

 

[Gary Fowler]

As long as you aren't exposing your bare skin to it, you should be ok. You would need the treated lumber to resist rot or you could use redwood lumber.

 

[Richard]

Ok, well...I'm glad to hear this.

Why you ask? Well, you might now suspect that is what I did.

Wife thought I was nuts but my logic was since it was against a below grade wall on two sides, I didn't want to risk it.

I did use CCA screws (or whatever they're called for treated use)

Reason I'm wondering is the grout on the tile on the door sil is evidently coming loose. Almost like the wood inside has warped.

The way those were screwed down, I'd dare say there is "no way" they will ever warp (or cup) I don't recall if I glued them as well.... I think I did.

This shower is the shower from he!! and I mean that in a good way.

I'm on a well that flows over 100 gpm. I get around 30 or so (if I recall) inside the house at the faucet.

I yanked all the 1/2" copper that went to the shower and replaced it with 3/4" (both hot & cold). I paid a fair bit more to get 3/4" valves. The gal at the supplier laughed & asked if I was building a car wash.

Perhaps!

Oh, and I yanked my 50 gal water heater and replaced it with an 80.

This is a freaking killer shower. I'll go get dirty just so I can go get clean!

Because of all the water, it's had me wondering about the grout. Then again, it might simply be grout that wasn't grouted very well.

I was fearing the treated might have been primary cause and began to second guess what I did.

 

[jaotguy]

did the "skirt" go up and over the shower sill you built ? liner should cover the floor and go up the sides 3-6" higher than the shower base tile level ...

as far as grout ... too small a gap , and it doesn't get in deep enough, so it flakes out/off ....

use epoxy grout to avoid ANY mold ...

 

[pat32rf]

I always use the "orange" plastic sealer layer under the tile, all the way to the ceiling. If installed properly NO moisture gets thru to the wood or insulation behind it. Done three of them for our own use in the past ten years... Forget about vents, seep holes, etc and follow THEIR instructions (think its called Kerdi)
They now have a product called Kerdi board that is fantastic. Pricey but one man can install a 4x8 sheet without bustin his gut. Its waterproof foam board and replaces concrete board with studs on 24" centers. Seal the seams and screws then add tile...