Okay, one more box blade question?

rk246 · Dec 7, 2005

I am wondering about sizes of box blades, in a previous thread I asked the question about brand and size, but am still in quandry over the size I need. This will be pulled behind my 3830, the dealer is telling me 84" ? I am reading about a lot of people also using this as a ballast when using there fel and am wondering with my tires at 70", my bucket at 72", if 84" would be too big for this? It seems using the box blade for ballast might be a little big for me anyway? I might think about trying to build something a little smaller for ballast and that would not be in the way as much? For those of you using the box blade for ballast do you find it too big sometimes? Does it get in your way sometimes? Is 72" a good size for all around? or is bigger better? Is it required or neccessary to have the box blade wider than the rear tires?

Thanks
Ryan

snmhanson · Dec 7, 2005

As far as using it for ballast, I find that it works well as long as you are not operating too much in confined spaces. When space is an issue it can easily get in the way and you have to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't swing out and hit something. In that case it is just something else to keep an eye on when you are already focused on the loader. However, I often find that when I am doing loader work I am using my box blade at the same time so it makes sense in that regard to use it for ballast. I would say that if you were going to be doing alot of work in confined areas and you didn't need the box blade at the same time it may make sense to get a ballast box or something else. Otherwise try it and see how it works.

Size wise, I've always been told that you want a box blade that will just cover your wheel tracks. Maybe slightly larger to accomodate the out-swing it will take when you are turning. I run a box blade that is close to a foot wider than my tractor tire width and it works ok but on occassion it will over power the tractor when I am working with wet and heavy material. I think something about six inches smaller would have been ideal for me, but that is what the dealer had in stock and I needed it that day. I would go with a box blade that just covers the wheel tracks. You may have to make acouple more passes but it will be easier on your tractor and you should always have plenty of power no matter what you're working with. That's just my opinion though. Good luck.

Matt

browns40 · Dec 7, 2005

Hi rk246,

To make grading/leveling easier you want to get your tire tracks covered; which I thought a 72" would do with some room on the 3830(?). If your wheels are 70, then maybe the 84 would be the right one.

I would select a box that covers the tracks with a little extra (8-12 inches total usually) for covering during turns, just to save you from making extra passes with it.

Thing is, the box is out there & can catch trees, shrubs, hillsides, houses, etc. so way past the wheels requires that much more attention from you.

Get the heaviest box in your price range, because the more of a counterweight you have on the back, the better your loader will work (&safer!).

I dropped 240# on a weight bar across the back & strapped it down to get the weight up to 774#, and it made a HUGE difference for all jobs I've done--the tractor actually spins the wheels less being planted that much more firmly down.

Enjoy the shopping! You might ask kubota what they recommend for that tractor too.

Happy... tractoring!

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Highbeam · Dec 7, 2005

My box blade just barely covers my tracks and that works very well. I would recommend the 72" for your tractor that is 70" wide. When I use it as a counterweight the only trouble I have in length, I have beacked into a couple of trees on accident while doin gloader work.

3RRL · Dec 7, 2005

( This will be pulled behind my 3830, the dealer is telling me 84")
He's on the right track if your tractor will pull it without problems. I had a 72" that barely covered my tracks so it was hard for me to grade my dirt road right up to the gutters. I had to drive in the gutter to grade up to it and in some areas where a side wall was, I could not do it. I ended up in these areas with a "new gutter" from rain run-off. I trade up for a heavier and 84" boxblade that sticks out about 4" past each rear and can now get to those areas. My 55HP tractor pulls it easily fully loaded with rippers all the way down. It has saved me in grading time too, having to make one less pass when smoothing my road. That's a heck of a lot because my road is about 1/2 mile long.

Right about having to keep an eye on it though, since it sticks out. Common sense dictates you should always keep an eye on your work at all times anyway.

( For those of you using the box blade for ballast do you find it too big sometimes? Does it get in your way sometimes? Is 72" a good size for all around? or is bigger better? Is it required or neccessary to have the box blade wider than the rear tires?)

The other posts suggested that more weight is better and I find that to be true as well. Both for ballast and work...My tractor does not apply any downward pressure, so it's all up to the weight of the boxblade when cutting or skimming with it. That's a good idea to add that extra weight on it.

There is no "requirement" as far as I know, nor whether bigger is better, but more experienced user can comment on that. In my use, however, I found the larger and heavier boxblade to be more efficient and useful over all for the things I've used it for so far.

rk246 · Dec 7, 2005

Thank you all for the information, my dealer only has the 84" in stock right now, I think I might like the extra width though for doing next to the barn and concrete walls etc. He is going to bring it out and let me try it, the only drawback would be that it would not fit inside my trailer, it is only 80 1/2 " wide....

jrepp · Dec 8, 2005

I would suggest that you match the width of the box blade to the width of your FEL. If you ever have to dig a deep narrow trench with the FEL and have a box blade (attached) that is wider than the FEL it may make digging difficult if the box blade drags on the sides of the trench.

Highbeam · Dec 8, 2005

Good point, jrepp. Also note that you can sort of swing the box to the side by adjusting the 3ph arms so that you can put extra width off to one side. Just don't let it tear up your tires.

JLoaf · Dec 8, 2005

I have a 6' on my 3830.
I recently added 220# of suitcase weights to the box blade and it really makes a difference as a counter weight and for grading.
Get as HEAVY a box blade as you can.

rk246 · Dec 9, 2005

Jloaf, what type and brand box blade do you have? The dealer is selling me the Land pride 84", I am not sure of the weight, I will have to look it up...How does you tractor pull the 6'? does it slow it down at all when full? What about with the teeth down? I just don't want it to be too much for my tractor, but also would like to be able to reach across the pot holes and stuff.....

wushaw · Dec 11, 2005

A friend of mine has a L4330 with tire width of 70" and uses a 76" BB that weighs 885lbs. He says he can pull his BB with scarfiers and cutting edge down at same time but only after he added wheel weights.

I have a L2800 with 60" tire width and use a 66" BB that weighs 830lbs, it works great for me but my little L2800 cannot pull the BB with the scarfiers down and the cutting edge down at the same time, I get tire spin even with filled tires.
Our BB's are 55lbs and 10" difference but his tractor weighs twice mine so tractor weight will make a difference in pullin a heavy BB.

rk246 · Dec 12, 2005

My box blade arrived today, I decided to go with the 84" only because it can get next to the barn walls and stuff easier. It seemed to work okay, it might be a little light though, It is a landpride and I believe it weighs around 580#s ? I couldn't really get the scarfiers into the ground good on the gravel drive? I was trying to get it to dig up the ground some so I could get some grass out. My 3830 had no trouble pulling it, even up the hill with about 3/4 full of 1 1/2 minus.... I am impressed by my new tractor so far, but I definetely need some practice with the box blade. I was a little disappointed that I was doing some fel work and the one side of the box blade came unhooked and drug the ground for a little bit before I noticed, the cotter pin came out? Hopefully I didn't mess anything up....

Highbeam · Dec 12, 2005

The biggest trick with the box blade is the adjustment of the toplink. To get those rippers to sink in, drop them all the way and then roll the box forward by shortening the toplink. This prevents the rearblade of the box from holding the rippers out of the gravel.

Jarrett · Dec 12, 2005

( .... It is a landpride and I believe it weighs around 580#s ?....)

Wow, that seems light for a 7' box. My 5' Woods GB60 was 495#. I would expect a 7' box to be 700#+. If you feel you need more weight there are plenty of ingenious ways posted on here to do so. I added extra weight to mine by adding a piece of 4" PVC pipe filled with concrete. I estimated it to add 75-100#. I liked this idea because I felt it spread the additional weight evenly across the box. I cut the pipe so that once a PVC cap is glued to each end it would be just shy of the width of my box. I glued a cap on 1 end, then put some water in. Mixed the sack concrete in the best I could with a long stick/rod. I left the other cap off until the concrete set a little, then glued the it on. I laid it across the box above the blade and tied it down. I had intended to fab some brackets on the box that would hold the pipe but never got around to it before selling the box. When I get a new box I'll do everything the same way again, but will actually get around to making those brackets. Anyhow, sounds like your setup is what I'd love to upgrade to in the future (like that will ever happen). /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

JLoaf · Dec 12, 2005

I have a 6' Bush Hog brand box blade.
I think it is listed at 550#.
The suitcase weights make it 770#.
I intend to weld some steel plates to it to add even more weight.
The additional weights have really helped.

I don't have any trouble pulling my blade using 4WD when dragging gravel or dirt..
There are times when clearing brush, etc, that I get hung on a root or rock.
I believe that loaded tires would be a plus for the additional traction.

Gavman · Dec 12, 2005

I own a Montana 4940. It's 4wd and 49 horsepower. I was wondering if a 72'' or 76'' Gannon box blade with hydraulic teeth would be too much blade for my machine. I think it weighs 1000 to 1200 lbs. My machine weighs about 4300 lbs. Is this too much for my tractor?

Highbeam · Dec 12, 2005

49 horsepower and only 4300 lbs? Heck, my 30 HP tractor weighs 4000 lbs and the tires slip when trying to pull my light boxblade through wet muck. So I guess my answer is that it depends on what you want to use the BB for. Also, adding tractor weight might help get those horses to the ground.

Gavman · Dec 12, 2005

highbeam
what does your BB weigh and what brand is it?

rk246 · Dec 12, 2005

I went to the land pride site and they say the 84" box blade I got weighs 593 # s, I think I need more weight... Also I didn't mess with the top link much so I think that might help make a difference... Soon I will have the top and tilt on which I believe will make running and using the box blade much easier... I'll have to research some of the ideas for adding weight... My 3830 didn't seem to have any trouble pulling it though...

rk246 · Dec 12, 2005

Jloaf,
Do you have any more info on the suit case weights? Where do they attach? Where did you get them? Do you have a picture of them by any chance? ...

Thanks,

Ryan