Old Briggs

[yankeeredneck]

I have and old Briggs model 23 on my splitter. It is blowing oil out the filler pipe. Runs fine otherwise, I have removed and cleaned the breather for the base. The valve in the breather seems to be free. I am trying to locate a carb kit thinking float valve may be hanging up, even though the oil has no gas smell. Anyone have any ideas? Appreciate your help.

 

[oldnslo]

Is it possible you have enough blow by from the rings causing this?

 

[super55]

How much oil coming out? The reason I ask is because a lot of small engines use an oil slinger in the crankcase to lube instead of an oil pump. If it's a large filler neck that doesn't have any angles in it I would think that the slinger could be possibly causing oil to spit out of the filler neck. Is this something that just started or something you noticed because the fill cap wasn't on while the engine was running.

 

[yankeeredneck]

A lot of oil comes out- 20 min run pumped 1/2quart. It has the original filler with the spring loaded cap. This is all recent. Oldnslo, hadn't considered rings. Maybe onto something.

 

[5030]

It's shot, Needs a ring job. You have way too much blowby. Briggs certainly don't last forever. You might want to repower with a Predator from HF, most likely as cheap or cheaper than fiddling with the Briggs.

 

[super55]

Agree definitely sounds like some bad rings or a scoured piston. Just out of curiosity does this have a gear reduction on it. These Old briggs with cast iron engine through a ton more torque than these new engines do so you might want to consider rebuilding it.

I found a thread on another forum you might want to read through before junking the motor. Briggs still supplies parts for them. In your case the saying "They just don't build them like they used to" really comes into play with this motor.

Briggs and Stratton Model 23 - SmokStak

 

[yankeeredneck]

Thanks super55. I have no intention of junking it,it runs to well otherwise. I pulled the head off and the cylinder wall is in great shape. There are no oversize stamps on piston so if rings are the problem and I can find them.. this shouldn't be to painful. Without pulling the piston would a compression test verify bad rings? What would the normal compression be? Thanks for everyones help!

 

[super55]

Yeah a compression tester in place of the spark plug will definitely let you know if you have some bad rings or burnt valves. I don't know exactly what the compression should be but if I had to guess it would be over 100psi.

Here's a link to B/S for manuals and parts. You'll need the model number to search for it though. Somewhere on the motor there should be a data plate. Not sure but the owners manual might have a spec sheet on it somewhere showing compression, plug gap, etc.

Object moved

 

[yankeeredneck]

Thanks 55, appreciate your time :thumbsup:Will let you know what happens.

 

[oldnslo]

If you use a thread in type compression tester be sure it does not extend into the combustion chamber far enough to hit a valve or piston cause bad things happen. I unfortunately know this from experience:ashamed:

Typically 80 - 90 PSI is considered the low end of compression and require rebuild. Also double check valve seats and guides while you have the head off. These normally don't cause blow by into the crank case but can contribute to low compression reading.